Introduction: Custom Hall Tree Landing Zone

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About: We're Mother Daughter Projects, sharing our DIY adventures as we learn to maintain, improve, decorate, and use tech in our homes.

My daughter-in-law needed a place for all the things the grandkids bring into the house after school. She needed some kind of landing zone for backpacks, shoes, school supplies and more!

This is what we came up with. Since she is in an apartment and plans to move in the future, we built it with that in mind. It can easily be taken apart and moved to a new location. 

Supplies

Materials/Tools:


Step 1: Watch the Video

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Step 2: Cut the Pieces for the Bench

The unit is composed of two back pieces and the bench. We started with building the bench first.

We are using the Kreg 24 in. Rip-Cut Aluminum Circular Saw Guide with our Makita circular saw to cut down the plywood for the bench pieces.

Once all the bench pieces were cut, we dry-fit the box to determine where we wanted the interior cubbies dividers.

We placed those supports 15 inches apart.

Download the cut list here.

Step 3: Assemble Bench

We assembled the bench with pocket hole screws and wood glue. Almost all the pocket holes were made on the back or the bottom so they would be hidden.

We did add pocket holes to the interior top but filled them with wood putty, and once they were painted, they were not noticeable.

Step 4: Make Bench Face Frame

We cut the face frame boards and again used pocket hole construction. We centered it onto the bench opening then glued and brad nailed it into place.

Step 5: Making the Removable Back

We cut the plywood to the length we wanted which was six feet and then cut it exactly down the center vertically at 24 inches.

We also cut the five vertical boards to length and then dry-fit the pieces to check the fit and placement of those vertical boards.

The top edge and sides of the plywood will show in the finished build so we used some iron-on edge banding to finish the edges.

The vertical boards on the back of the hall tree are a design element, but the center one also functions to hide the seam between the two halves of the back.

In this image, you can see we are only gluing and brad nailing half of the board to the edge.

When put together, the other board will slip behind this one so the seam is hidden.

The two back pieces are kept in place with boards that are screwed into place but are easily removed so the piece can be disassembled for easy moving.

Step 6: Finishing

The latex paint we used was thinned with Floetrol so that it would go on thinly. We wanted the grain of the wood to show through.

We added these 'feet' to keep the base from sliding and marking the floor.

After everything was painted and we were getting ready to add the hooks, we decided to add a decorative element with these pieces of wood set between the vertical boards. This is where we added the coat hooks.

As a final touch, we decided to make an upholstered cushion for the top. This is a piece of foam that we are reusing and cutting to size. I'm using an electric carving knife while Steph is directing the tip from the front. This is a very quick and efficient way to cut foam. It is upholstered in some heavy fabric left over from another project.

The cover was machine-sewn, but after the foam was inserted the opening needed to be hand-stitched.

Step 7: Transport and Set Up

Once the unit was finished and dry it was time to transport it to its new home.

It breaks into five pieces: the two back pieces, the bench, and two back support pieces. It fits easily into a Honda CRV for transport.

Once in its new home the backs were screwed into place, the supports were added to the back and the entire unit was put into place. Adding the cushion was the finishing touch.

The piece fits exactly in the space for which it was designed.

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