Introduction: Hexagon Table

About: Teacher. Climber. Craftsman.

This is a concept I wanted to try after making other tessellated surfaces and cutting boards. This is essentially an end grain cutting board with three of the segments elongated to become legs.

The random shape of the surface is inspired by a a beehive.

This is a relatively straight forward project that only requires a table saw, sander, and accurate measuring tools.

You can take this project and add your spin to it by changing the size, number of legs, and orientation of hexagons.

Supplies

Materials


Wood

  • I used poplar for this project because it is easy to work with, and relatively inexpensive.
  • I ordered 8/4 poplar online from Woodworker's Source. This came surfaced on both sides and was 1 13/16 inches thick. I do not have a jointer or planer, so ordering like this was ideal. Most local lumber store will have a similar product. My piece was 9 inches wide and about 40 inches long.

Wood Glue


Tools


Table Saw

Random Orbital Sander

Calipers

  • Digital or dial

Angle Gauge

  • A digital angle gauge may work, but typically only have an accuracy or about .2 degree. I used a bevel gauge, with bevel angle setter.

Bar Clamps

  • I needed a capacity of 24 inches.

Step 1: Precise Hexagons

The success of this project, and ease of assembly, comes down to cutting perfectly uniform hexagons. Variation in angle or side lengths will create issues during assembly. I tried a few different ways to cut perfect hexagons and will explain what I found to be the best method.


Break Down

Break down the board into shorter, more manageable, lengths of 19 inches. Rip these to be wider than your desired hexagon. My height is 1 13/16 inches, so I ripped these to a width of 2 1/4 inches.


Blade Angle

Set the blade angle to 60 degrees. I used a bevel gauge and bevel angle setter for this, but a digital angle gauge may be accurate enough.


Ripping Hexagons

My method is detailed in the pictures. I wasn't able to set the fence and get perfect measurements in one shot. Instead, I created a stretched hexagon that was "wider" than what I wanted, and then slowly snuck up on a perfect hexagon. Use calipers to check your dimensions as you sneak up on the perfect size. All my parallel sides were within .01 inches of each other (less than 1/64 in), and I still had some alignment issues during glue up.

Once the fence was set, I could use that setup to rip all the pieces.

Save the off-cuts. These will be helpful later.


Cross Cut

Use a miter sled, to cut the hexagons to length. The table top is made from 37 pieces that are each 2.5 inches long.

The legs are each 18 inches long.

Use blue tape to minimize tear out.

Step 2: The Legs

The legs are tapers on the table saw using a jig that rides along the fence. They could also have been shaped with a hand place, tapered and round on the lathe, or even left as is.


Layout Lines


At the top end of each length, draw a line that is 2.5 inches from the top. This where the taper will start.

On the bottom end of each leg, draw a concentric hexagon that is 1/4 inch inset on each side.

Find the center of each side, and a draw a second hexagon that is inscribed, and rotated 60 degree. This will become the bottom of the leg.


The Jig


The jig is made from 3/4 inch ply wood that is 6 inches x 20 inches.

The left edge of the jig will touch the inside of the blade, and will be your reference to know where to line up the tapers.

Use your layout lines and a square to line up the where the taper begins and ends.

Glue support blocks in place to keep each leg at that angle.

Install toggle clamps to hold in place.


The Cut


It will be easiest to make each cut on all the legs before moving to the next cut as each setup is slightly different.

Begin by cutting two opposite sides on all of the legs. Save the cut offs.

Rotate the leg 60 degrees, and glue in one of the cut offs for support. Adjust toggle clamp.

For the next 4 cuts you will continue to rotate the leg 60 degrees. Add shims between the leg and the stop to keep the leg in the correct spot and secure.


Step 3: Glue Up

Errors will compound and telegraph through the table. As you glue up each piece, take time to make sure each piece fits correctly.


Glue, Clamp, Clean

Begin by gluing and clamping 4 hexagons. The opposing clamping pressure will help keep the pieces aligned. This will be near the center of the table.

Thoroughly wipe away any squeeze out, as this would interfere with subsequent pieces.

I added a couple pieces at a time over the course of several days following a plan that I came up with before hand.


Clamping Cauls

Use the off cuts from when you created the hexagons to make corner cauls.

Glue two strips to a piece of plywood backer.

This will help keep clamps on the corners, and will help avoid damaging the corners.

Step 4: Sanding

Underside

Sand the underside of the table with a random orbital sander. I used 80, 120 and 220 grit. This area will be hard to sand once the legs are on.


Top

Sand the top with 80. You will do a final sanding once the legs are attached.


Edges

Sand the edges with 120 and then 220 grit sandpaper.

Use a sanding block on outside facets.

Glue sandpaper to one of your cut-offs to get into tighter areas.


Legs

Sand the legs being careful not to round over the tapered facets.

Break the edges at the feet of the legs.

Step 5: Final Assembly

Final Assembly

Glue the legs on, one at a time.


Final Sanding

Sand the top of the table with 120 grit and 220 grit sandpaper.

Complete final sanding of the edges and legs.

Break all sharp edges slightly with 220 sandpaper.


Finish

Any finish is suitable. I used a hardwax oil, but would have preferred to maintain a lighter color.

Step 6: Complete