The name Pharus comes from the latin word for Beacon. I chose this because of the characteristics that many of us attribute to that word. A beacon of light is physical, but also emotional and spiritual. By connecting through the internet and effecting each others light, it provides the connection and the sense of safety that a beacon provides, even when you’re far away. The lamps have three commands. The first touch turns it on, the second touch send a command to Adafruit IO and will flash the light on the other lamp. The third command will turn it off. This process allows for you to communicate with someone through your lights no matter where they are!

Supplies

3D Printer
Frosted glass orb
Smooth On silicone mold making kit
Rocktite cement mix
Feather Huzzah (2)
Solder-type breadboard (2)
AT42QT1070 Standalone Touch Capacitor (2)
Micro USB wall power cable (2)

Step 1: Explore Forms

Finding certain organic shapes that I liked. I decided against the tall slender model, as this is touch sensitive the taller model would be prone to tipping.

Step 2: 3D Model & Print

Using Rhino I built a 3D model of the lamp. Finding dimensions and drawing curves until I found a shape that resonated with me. I then boolean out the middle in order to fit the circuitry and a power cable out of the side.

Step 3: Silicone Mold Making

The silicone mold was probably the most arduous part of the process. It requires a balanced mix of its A and B parts. I constructed a foam-core box about 3/4" around my model. Be sure to sand your model smooth and remove any imperfections. Mix each A and B parts very well separately as well as once you combine them. Pour from a reasonable height above your mold box in very light and smooth speed. Completely submerge the model and let sit for at least 4 hours.

Step 4: Removing the Model

This process is very particular, as you are trying to cut open the mold to remove your model, but trying to leave as neat and clean of a cut so it will come back together for when you pour your cement. The mold cures in about 4 hours, but I left it in over night. DO NOT GET SULFUR ANYWHERE NEAR THE MOLD WHILE ITS CURRING. I made the mistake of using clay to patch one hole on the 3D model, and as a result one section of the mold stayed gooey. It left a little patchy section on the cement model...but some sanding and it cleared right up! Using a "Jewelers cut" I zig zagged down the side with a very sharp blade.

Step 5: Casting & Removing Cement

During this process I was working with small batches because of the cup size I had at my disposal, and so I had to work fast. The cement cures in about 15 minutes but begins to harden almost immediately. Be sure to do a few tests of the cement, and balance the water to powder mixture to the consistency you prefer. (If you have a big bucket, just mix your hole amount at once and pour). If doing it by batches, find your measurements and then scale up until you have both amounts for the size of your mold. I then poured through a funnel I made with paper and masking tape. Make sure to pour slowly and consistently.

Step 6: Soldering the Circuit

Using the Feather Huzzah, the Touch Capacitor, some wiring and part of a Neo Pixel strip, I build the circuit following this line of connections.

Touch Cap VDD -> Huzzah 3V

Touch Cap GND -> Huzzah GND

Touch Cap 2 -> Huzzah SCKNeoPixel 5V -> Huzzah 3V

NeoPixel GND -> Huzzah GND

NeoPixel Din -> Huzzah 14

The first touch turns it on. The second touch send a command to Adafruit IO and will flash the light on the other lamp. The third command will turn it off.

Below is the code!

Lamp_2Input_IO.ino
Download

Step 7: Building Rim & Inlaying Touch Wire

I devised a rim which would hide the wire, and act as the touch sensor. I modeled this in Rhino and was sure to build out a notch for the wire to sit into and tuck back into the lamps base. This allowed for the rim to sit flush with the concrete base.