This is a very cool walking machine that you can build with meccano. Now it doesn't really matter what style of meccano you use, old or new it all works.

I used the 1945 - 1957 red and green meccano but you can use whatever you have available. I also used some newer electric parts from the 1990's as well.

Please note that I have a large collection of meccano, so finding the right part, and the quantity, for me is easy. Therefore this cannot be built with just one set/outfit, so you will have to make sure you have the right parts before you begin the build. I have spent a lot of time making a parts list to help with that.

To build this you will need:

2x angle girders, part 8
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
8x double brackets, part 11
4x reverse angle brackets, part 125
13x bolts, part 37b
13x nuts, part 37a
2x bush wheels 8 holes, part 24
4x threaded rods, part 115
2x washers, part 38
4x perforated strips, part 5
4x perforated strips, part 1
1x double angle strip, part 48a
6x angle brackets, part 12
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
12x bolt, parts 37b
12x nut, parts 37a
2x angle girders, part 8
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
2x trunnions, part 126
2x curved strips stepped, part 90a
4x perforated strips, part 5
2x fishplates, part 10
1x double angle strip, part 48a
26x bolts, part 37b
26x nuts, part 37a
8x nuts, part 37a
8x bolts, part 37b
2x axle rods, part 15a
2x sprocket wheels, part 95
1x gear wheel, part 27a
2x double angle strips, part 48a
1 perforated strip, part 5
2x trunnions, part 126
2x reverse angle brackets, part 125
2x angle brackets, part 12
2x fishplates, part 10
4x washers, part 38
18x bolts, part 37b
22x nuts, part 37a
4x long screws (I was unable to find a part number)
1x worm gear, part 32
1x axle rod, part 16
1x coupling, part 63
4x bolts part 37b
1x grub screw, part 69a
the two legs
4x bolts, part 37b
8x rubber pulley collars, part 23c
4x washers, part
2x spacers

You will also need a lengh of chain. The amount of links needed will become clear when you have both sprockets in place.

You will also need a gearbox reduction unit (19-1), an electric motor, 2 battery holders (or 1 four battery holder). These battery holders will need to have a switch, this doesn't have to be reversing, unless you want to make the machine go in reverse.

Step 1: The Legs

These are quite in simple construction with not too many parts required. Here are all the parts you need:

2x angle girders, part 8
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
8x double brackets, part 11
4x reverse angle brackets, part 125
13x bolts, part 37b
13x nuts, part 37a
2x bush wheels 8 holes, part 24
4x threaded rods, part 115
2x washers, part 38
4x perforated strips, part 5

Due to the simplicity of these legs, I think that the pictures should be enough to build these.

Step 2: Support Frame

This is the section that supports the main body. The parts needed are:

4x perforated strips, part 1
1x double angle strip, part 48a
6x angle brackets, part 12
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
12x bolts, part 37b
12x nuts, part 37a

These are also very simple in construction, so I think the pictures should be alright in showing all you need to build them.

If you find that they are too unstable, try adding two more double angle brackets either end to make the ends more rigid.

Step 3: Main Body

This is the main frame in which all the pieces bolt onto. The parts required are:

2x angle girders, part 8
4x flat trunnions, part 126a
2x trunnions, part 126
2x curved strips stepped, part 90a
4x perforated strips, part 5
2x fishplates, part 10
1x double angle strip, part 48a
26x bolts, part 37b
26x nuts, part 37a

This is quite a simple design, but the only difficult bit is at the end. Be careful to put the perforated strips the right way on the trunnions. If they are on the outside edge then the middle double angle strip will not sit right on the fishplates. Also the height of the double angle strip does matter. The fish plates allow for adjustment when fitting the worm gear, so you might want to fit them later on.

Step 4: Assembly

This step is really where the machine really starts to takes shape. The only parts that are needed for this step are:

8x nuts, part 37a
8x bolts, part 37b

Be careful to align the support frame correctly. Due to the fact that the angle girders have elongated holes, the trunnions on the frame can be placed at different heights, so try to get them all the same height.

Step 5: Axles

These two axles are the main moving parts in the whole machine, they transfer the motion from the motor to the legs.

The parts needed are:

2x axle rods, part 15a
2x sprocket wheels, part 95
1x gear wheel, part 27a

You will also need a lengh of chain. The amount of links needed will become clear when you have both sprockets in place.

Make sure to get the gear wheel in the middle so that it will mesh correctly with the worm gear.

Step 6: Motor System

This step is quite complex. It involves some very specific parts. (motor, gearbox etc.)

If you do not have the right parts then I have found a website where you can order all the parts you need to build this whole machine. http://meccanoman.co.uk

The parts for this step are:

2x double angle strips, part 48a
1 perforated strips, part 5
2x trunnions, part 126
2x reverse angle brackets, part 125
2x angle brackets, part 12
2x fishplates, part 10
4x washers, part 38
18x bolts, part 37b
22x nuts, part 37a
4x long screws (i was unable to find a part number)

You will also need a gearbox reduction unit (19-1), an electric motor, 2 battery holders (or 1 four battery holder). These battery holders will need to have a switch, this doesn't have to be reversing, unless you want to make tha machine go in reverse.

The gearbox reduction unit is the key to getting the gearing right. Without it you will just stall the motor and the machine will not move at all. You can buy a gearbox reduction unit for about £5, so they are not expensive.

The gearbox has a triangular shaft, so you will want the motor to have the same shaft. If you do not have a motor that has the right shaft shape then do not worry, you can buy them for about £10. However, if you don't want to pay £10, and have a perfectly good motor, then you can do what I did. I just got a file and shaped three flat bits on the motor shaft to match the ones in the reduction gearbox. If you find that the file just turns the motor, rather than shaping the shaft, then you can just hold it with a pair of pliers.

When you have the motor attached to the gearbox, you will need to mount it on a frame. The gearbox has two fishplates attached to the lower two holes. They should be attached with the elongated holes attached to the gearbox and then the other fishplate holes can be attached to two angle brackets.

The motor is attached by a double angle strip attached to the centre row of holes of the motor. At either ends of the double angle strip should be a trunnion. On the back row of holes on the motor there should be a perforated strip attached by two reverse angle brackets. In between the reverse angle brackets and the perforated strip there should be two washers at each end.

This whole assembly should just bolt directly onto the main body, the perforated strip attached to the motor should be bolted on the row of holes just after the curved stepped strips.

The battery holders are attached to the curved stepped strips by four long bolts, going upwards. In between the strips and the holders there should be two washers per every bolt.

When wiring the motor up you will need a short length of wire. This needs to be long enough to go in between the battery holder terminals. The two wires from the motor need to go to the two remaining terminals. The polarity will become apparent when you have tried the motor to see which direction it rotates in. Make sure the batteries are inserted correctly and that all wires are tight.

Step 7: The Worm Gear

This is the gear that transfers the power from the motor to the legs. It is quite simple, but involves a lot of setup.

For this you will need:

1x worm gear, part 32
1x axle rod, part 16
1x coupling, part 63
4x bolts part 37b
1x grub screw, part 69a

Begin by attaching the coupling to the gearing unit. This can be done with one bolt, but it's best to have two either side to help spread the load. Next slide the rod into the double angle strip at the end. Slide the worm gear onto the rod and attach the rod to the coupling with two bolts. Make sure the worm gear is in the right position and tighten up a grub screw into the worm gear.

Now this is the fiddly bit. The legs are quite hard to push up for the motor, but it will manage it, but only if the gear is placed correctly. The worm gear has to be as far apart from the gear wheel as possible, without slipping. To adjust the height of the worm gear, just loosen off the bolts holding the double angle strip in place, and tweak the fishplates up and down until you have the worm gear correctly meshing with the gear wheel.

Step 8: Attaching the Legs

This step isn't really too hard, and makes the machine look complete. To attach the legs you will need:

The two legs you built earlier
4x bolts, part 37b
8x rubber pulley collars
4x washers, part 38
2x spacers

First of all, make sure that the axles are correctly aligned in the middle. Then one leg can be bolted onto the side with the sprockets. This just bolts right up against the sprocket. The other side will need to have two washers per shaft, and one spacer, if you do not have any then just use more washers.

This should be it, the last thing that needs doing. There are a few places where you might come into trouble though, so I'll explain:

Rubber pulley collars - they may not be strong enough if they have been pulled on and off of rods a lot of the time, so you might want to replace them with metal brass collars instead. They have been fine for me, but I used rubber collars that were unused, so they fit tightly.

Motor stalling - this can be frustrating to have the motor not powerful enough to turn the legs. It happened to me and the most likely problem is that the motor is mis-aligned with the gearbox. This means that there is more strain on the motor and it just doesn't have enough power. If you loosen the bolt holding the motor then it should work. Tighten them back up when you have made sure that the gearbox and motor are aligned with each other correctly and straight.

Worm gear slipping - this also happened to me and is a problem. Try and adjust the fishplates holding on the double angle strip to make the worm gear mesh properly with the gear wheel.

I hope that covers everything, and have fun watching this machine move across the ground!