It's cold in our basement where we keep our printers. This has caused some problems with warping as the the heated build plate and cold ambient air compete for control of the part as the part grows in layers. It took a few prints (adjusting settings with each) before determining it was the arctic blast making the problems (This time).

So I decided that a enclosure was needed to keep the heat in during printing. Having plans to build a enclosed and vented printer space in my office (eventually.... insert eye roll here) and being trapped by a snow drift. Using what was laying around was the answer.

Follow the pictures.

1. Warping caused part not to function.

2. Supplies.

3. Finished.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY!

Supplies

Quick and Dirty = whatever is laying around that will get the job done.
This is what I used feel free to improvise differently.
● 3D printer that is feeling cold.
● Utility Knife ((One of the most dangerous tools you own) and useful)
● Marking tool
● Straight edge
● Measuring tool
● Few hours
● Duct tape
● Pile of cardboard boxes your trying to ignore.
● Anneled steel wire. (Cold duct tape may need help)

Step 1: Measure It Again Sam

Who is this Sam fellow? (the author must have lost a few more marbles.) Moving on.

Following pictures.

1. Measure all required variables taking account of how things may move around in the space around the framework of the printer.

2. Write down the dimensions.

● repeat measuring. Better measuring leads to less suffering later.

Step 2: What Are We Working With?

Following pictures again.

1. Measure and label the dimensions of your cardboard. Non of my stock was conveniently sized to wrap around and make the box or use a box unmodified.

2. Using your knife and straight edge make your stock (conveniently close) the appropriate dimensions.

3. It might be helpful to bend some part to the right size. Measure, Mark and bend using your straight edge to get a clean bend. This will strengthen the corner and help stiffen the box once finished.

Step 3: Duct Tape Is the Answer, As Always.

Forgot a few pictures, this is what happened.
● Tape the 4 sides together laying flat.
● Cut out the front door to fit your needs, making sure you can reach controls and card slot if applicable. Reinforcing the bottom of the door hole may be a good idea.
● stand up the sides and tape them to be box like.
● Tape the top on.
● Keep taping until all the joints are taped on both sides.
Following pictures.
1,2. All taped up
3. Test fit. Discovered that a top hole/ door would be a good idea.

Step 4: Top Hole and Doors

Following pictures.
1,2. The top hole needs to allow access to retrieve parts and the build plate if removable.
3. The cutout from the front hole makes a good top door. Tape on both sides made a good hinge.
4. The front door should allow access to control panel and other normally used controls. (I decided to remove the enclosure if hot end or filament needs service. )
5. Tape the front door on to work with gravity. (Because the nature of cardboard it may be beneficial to hold the door shut with tape. )

Step 5: Test Print and Troubleshooting

Follow the pictures.
1. The print went better then expected. When checking on the print I was surprised at how warm it got in the chamber.
2. The parts came out well. No warping or stringing. The fine teeth on the long skinny part had pretty good detail for .2mm resolution, better then previous prints.
3. Cheap duck tape does not stick well in the cold, some maintenance may be needed.
4. I used some annealed steel wire to help the tape hold everything together.