(This Instructable Is Dead.) Singing Arc Plasma Speaker Project - Revision 2.0!

UPDATE: This instructable will not ever be finished, as I have moved back to the 555 circuit with some major changes, and I incorporated this 'able into that one. Click here to see the finished one!

Everything below is OUTDATED information, and has been modified and ported over to the older 555 version of this instructable, which is done start to finish. Please click that to see what it is capible of.

I am only leaving this one no

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You've probably seen my last, failed singing arc project. I decided to give it a second attempt. Anyway, I believe I know what went wrong, which I covered in the last instructable.

So after realizing that driving an inductor or transformer in the flyback mode of operation will basicly lead to failure at higher powers, I decided it was time to change tactics. Instead of driving the flyback in it's flyback mode, I will drive it with resonance!

Step 1: Disclaimer, and Dangers.

If you have not messed around with high voltages before, Please don't attempt to make this circuit. The ZVS driver I am building is easily capable of delivering 45,000 volts (45 KV) @ 5-15 mA of current. This output current can cause serious problems such as loss of muscular control, involuntary spasms, heart fibrillation, cardiac arrest, death, and perhaps worst of all, involuntary self-urination. You definitely would not want any of that!

Step 2: New Driver Topology:

One of the most popular circuit for drivers is the ZVS flyback driver. This circuit is essentially a Royer oscillator, that uses two MOSFETS to drive a tank circuit with the transformer for the inductor. This circuit relies on resonance rather than the flyback operation.

Think of resonance like pushing someone on a swing. Push them at just the right time, and they will gain momentum (like the voltage) This means those huge voltage spikes will not exist. However, like the person on the swing, the circuit does "gain momentum" and cause the voltage to rise almost 4 times the input voltage, when the output is open.

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To solve the "cramming everything in" problem, I think I will just have to have an external supply for power. (unless 12V 5A proves to be enough for this circuit) This is not optimal, but that is better than nothing. Besides, that gives me more options for supplies!

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I'm also going to attempt to etch my own PCB, with nice, thick traces to handle the current. I have heard people built this driver on a PCB say they had to use external jumpers because they blew the traces off. Also, the PCB is fairly compact and should easily fit into my box I made. I did try to make a custom PCB my hand before, but failed.

Step 3: Audio Modulation Circuit Design

After mucking around with a TIP3055 and some other smaller BJT transistors, I made myself a decent audio amplifier that should be able to modulate a L2 coil around the same ferrite core as the L1 in my previous schematic.

Step 4: Electrical Parts List:

Here is a rough idea of what electrical parts you'll need:

● power supply                                          (SLA battery's work, or a plug in power supply capable (PSU) of 4A)

● heatsink (not required if you plan to use 12V or less. Otherwize, your mosfet will get uncomfortably
warm and reduce the performance of the driver. Make sure you also have silicone insulation
pads. you don't want the source of the MOSFETS in contact with each other.)

● flyback transformer                                      (you can get it out of old TV's or online. the larger, the better,)

● high power MOSFETs (the IRF250 works very well, and one can probably get the IRF540, although that one can not handle as much voltage. I calculated the 540 should operate up to 31.83V)

● Fast switching diodes (I am using cheap 1N4007's, they seem to work just fine. I bought them here, but they can be found on can be found on old circuit boards as well)

●12-15V zener diodes (I am using cheap 1N4742A's, they seem to work just fine. I bought them online here.)

● several high value (470uF) electrolytic capacitors (buy it online, local electronics shop, or in my case, junkbox)

● computer fan                                                    (a small computer fan i found in a computer power supply unit)

● wire                                                                     (buy it online, local electronics shop, or in my case, junkbox)

Step 5: Tools Required

● Soldering iron

● Solder

● Sponge (for cleaning the tip of the iron)

● Flux solder paste

● Breadboard with wire

● Wire strippers

● Needle nose pliers and diagonal cutting pliers(highly recommended)

● Helping hands (optional, but highly recommended)

● Screw-driver

● Tape

● Tape measure