Introduction: Wood Frame Flatbar by Jeff King – Built to Shred

By Fuel TV
About: “Built To Shred,” hosted by master craftsman and skateboarder Jeff King, takes the viewers to unbelievable and unrideable locations all over the globe and transforms them into action sports playgrounds. “Buil…

Welcome to the Built to Shred trick tips. I'm Jeff King and I'm going to show you how to build a wood frame flatbar. One of the cool things about this particular prop is that is very easy to build. With just a few pieces of wood, a handful of screws and a piece of pipe, you will be shredding in no time!

Check out more cool thing to build and shred on Fuel TV's show "Built to Shred" airing Sunday's at 8 p.m. ET/PT. For more details please visit http://www.fueltv.com

Video of instructions:http://video.fuel.tv/services/player/bcpid9786084001?bctid=25855355001

Step 1: Tools/Materials

Tools you'll need: a drill, a circular saw & and that's it. If you have a jig saw it might help but not necessary

Materials youll need: 2 sheets of 3/4 ply, (5) 2x4x8's and (1) 9 piece of 2" pipe.

Step 2: Determine the Height of Your Flatbar

You will need to cut out two of the same triangles based on this height, but remember to add the diameter of the pipe to the measurement. I chose 17" triangles, giving me a final height of about 16".

Step 3: Harvest Your Materials

Now that you've got your height, you should be able to start chipping away at your material list. You will need (3) 17"x 96" pieces of 3/4 ply and (5) 94-1/2 " 2x4's, about (20) 3' screws and (50) 2' screws. And to top it off, your 17"x17"x17"x 3/4 triangles - 2 of them.

Step 4: Start Cutting

It's not a bad idea to cut your triangles first, and then the 2x4's so that you can be more accurate with your assembly (in case my math is off somewhere...haha). Cut about an inch off the tops of your two triangles so your coping has somewhere to sit.

Step 5: Start Framing

Put your frame together using your triangles and 2x4's. The 2x4 placements should look something like the photo.

Step 6: The Coping

Think about the bump(see photo) that you want your coping to have once your side pieces of 3/4 is on. The half circle should be about an inch in.

Step 7: Coping Install

Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill 3 holes through the coping, all the way through. The first should be about 3" in from the end of the inside of the triangle, the next in the middle of the pipe and the last should be 3" from the inside end of the other triangle. Now go back and on the top of the coping, using a 7/16 drill bit, open up the holes on the top only. Now you should have a 7/16 hole on top and a 3/16 hole on the bottom. This should allow you to put a 3" screw through the top hole while only putting the body of the screw through the second hole.

Step 8: Sheeting the Sides

Now that you have your rail framed up, it's time to sheet the sides and bottom of it. Take one final measure to make sure everything is good and make your cuts. Install with your 2" screws every foot on every 2x4. Throw a little paint on there to customize it and it's time to rip!