Even if you only have a small deck or an outside apartment balcony you can grow herbs, lettuce or flowers in a vertical planter. With only a 2' x 3' footprint, your planter can provide food, beauty and entertainment. This design permits the boxes to be removed individually for filling or emptying. Also, with the boxes removed, the planter can more easily be moved from one place to another.

Supplies

Unfortunately, this project requires a table saw to prepare most of the components.

TOOLS

table saw

electric drill

#8 countersink drill bit

hex head drive bit

square

tape measure

pencil

protractor

MATERIALS

small piece of hardboard (about 1' x1')

1- 2" x 10" x 8'

2- 2" x 6" x 6'

2- 2" x 6" x 8'

6- 1" x 6" x 8'

2- 2' x 4' x 1/2" treated plywood

1- 1" x 4" x 4'

1- 1" x 4" x 6'

30- 10 x 2-1/2" hex head (pole barn) screws

200+/- - #6 x 1-5/8" construction screws

Step 1: Cutting for and Assembling the Boxes

For consistency and to speed things up, the first thing you will need is a hardboard template for the ends of the boxes. The angle on the template will also be your guide for cutting the angles on the two vertical pieces. Using the second photo as your guide, both the right side and the top of the template are 8" and bottom is 5-1/2". This should give you an angle of 105 degrees at the lower left. Verify with a protractor if you have one.

Trim the 2" x 10" to 8" wide. Use the template to mark out the ten end pieces. As you mark the diagonal side on one, then flip the template and align the diagonal with the line you just drew. Mark along the 8" side opposite the angled side. This way you will need fewer cuts and less wood. The angled side is the front of the box and the 8" side opposite is the back.

Cut the 1" x 6" boards into 30" sections. Cut the wood remaining from each board into the box supports. You will need ten pieces about 5-1/2" long x 2" wide. Drill and countersink each support piece about 1-1/2" from each end.

Set the table saw blade at a 15 degree angle. Rip one side of a 30" piece, just taking off enough so the edge will make a straight line as you align the board with the top angled corner of the end pieces. Or you could just forget about this step.

Set two of the end pieces on their backs about 30" (outside) apart with the angled fronts towards you on a flat work surface. Drill the 1" x 6" board you just trimmed about 1" in from the left end of the top edge and 3/4" in from the end. Align the board you just cut with the upper left corner of the left end piece. Use the square to make sure you have the board at 90 degrees and screw the two pieces together. Using the square will help to make sure the boxes are square and don't tip or rock. Again, use the square to ensure a square corner and drill a pilot hole and set a second screw at the bottom of the board. Move to the other end of the 30" board. Align and secure the second end piece. Add a third screw midway between the two screws at each end.

Measure how wide the board needs to be to complete the front of the box. Set the table saw fence and cut this narrow board at 15 degrees on one long side. Secure the board so the two square edges abut and the cut edge aligns with the bottom of the end pieces. It should not extend past the bottom of the end pieces because the box bottom board needs to fit fairly flush.

Flip the box over and install the two back boards similarly to the way you did the front, except that no angle cuts are needed.

In addition to the box supports, the boxes are also supported by French cleats. To make these, cut each of the 2" x 6" x 8' so you have five 30-1/4" pieces. Set the table saw blade to 30 degrees and the fence to 2-3/8 ". Rip each of the five pieces in half. One of each set will attach to the back of a box and the other half of the set will be a crosspiece between the uprights. Trim five of the cleats to 30". These are the ones that attach to the back of the boxes.

Cut the five bottom pieces from the treated plywood. Be sure to set the saw blade angle at 15 degrees for half of the cuts. The angled side will align with the angled front of the box. Secure the bottom to the box with five screws at each end, three into the end piece and one each into the front and back boards. See photo.

To prevent bowing and sagging, a brace is needed in the bottom of the box,. Using what is left from making the cleats, cut five braces about 2-1/2" high and 5-1/5" along the short bottom side. 90 degrees at one end and with the usual 15 degree cut at the other end. They get screwed into the inside bottom, near the middle of the box. Two screws front and back and three screws through the bottom.

Attach the 30" cleats to the outside of the back of the boxes with four screws as shown in the photo. The second cleat photo illustrates how the box cleat will hang on the frame cleat.

Repeat for the other four boxes.

Step 2: The Vertical Framework

Use the template to draw lines for 15 degree cuts at the bottom of the 2" x 6" x 6' verticals. Make the cuts. Measure up 66" from the sharp angle at the bottom and mark it. Use the template to mark lines for 15 degree cuts. Make the cuts, so the cut ends are parallel to each other. At the top of each vertical, mark for the cut so the upright can lean neatly against a wall. See photo.

Start at the bottom and mark at 1", 14-1/2", 28-1/2", 42-1/2", 56". Use the template to mark lines parallel to the top and bottom cuts. These lines are where the bottom of the box supports will align. I added lines to indicate the top edge of the supports but this is not necessary. Attach the supports using two screws per piece with the back of the supports at or slightly in front of the wall side of the verticals.

This next step is easier if you can do it on sawhorses. Cut the 1" x 4' to 33-1/4" and rip the long pieces in half. These are the top and bottom horizontal braces that attach to the back of the verticals. Stand the verticals on edge as shown in the photo and attach the horizontal braces. Make sure the top brace is low enough that the trimmed vertical will rest against the wall and not the brace. NOTE: The top brace is not positioned correctly in the photo. The verticals must be square so the finish planter will not tilt one way or the other. Position the 1" x 4" diagonal brace as shown. Make sure it is far enough towards the bottom that it will not hit the wall as the finished planter leans against the wall. Mark and trim it to fit. Secure it to the verticals with three screws at each end.

Step 3: Final Assembly

Stand the vertical assembly up against a wall or deck railing. Place the bottom box on the box supports. Another person helping would be good at this point. Position the 30-1/4" cleat so it fits into the cleat attached to the box and secure it in place, through the verticals, using two 2-1/2" hex head screws in each end as shown in the photo. Drive another 2-1/2" hex head screw through the upright at each side into the box as shown. These last screws will insure that the box is secured in place. Repeat for the other four boxes. Done.

If you didn't use cedar or treated wood, you may want to paint the inside of the boxes with a garden box sealer.

At the end of the growing season remove the soil from the boxes and scatter it on your lawn, the berm along the street or in a park. This will help prolong the life of the wood. Start over with new soil next year.

You will need to water fairly often since there isn't a great deal of soil in the boxes.

Enjoy your herbs, veggies and flowers.