CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THIS TRANSFORMER IS?
Hi everyone, I harvested this transformer from a Mitsubishi TV, it has two red wires on one side and two white wires on the other side, there is a tag that says 350P43902 witch I believe is the part number and 24F049HD witch I believe is the part name also it says TAM and M 9408. I want to know what this transformer does? I tried to find the datasheet for it but had no luck looking online, so if anyone can help if they know what it is or where to find its datasheet online I appreciate it as I like to see what I can use it for, maybe somewhere in my flyback transformer project. Thank you.
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L
L
Next time remember to label the wires before you take them off. Or just cut them so you've got a stump left and then you know where they were connected.
L
L
But I think it might be damaged or compromised,,,oh well too bad.
I didn't do it again.
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So the bulb was acting like a current limiter or something, ok so I also think the trans was working before and the reason why the needle did not move was probably cause it was set for 150 Vac when it should have been set to 15 since most likely the trans was outputting 12 volts or something in that low range correct?
Any XFMR can be a step up or step down if reversed .
It could have been that it was the low voltage secondary you put
directly across the line.
Yes the light bulb was limiting the current if you wired it wrong.
Experience is a strict teacher :-)
2)I put the thinnest wires to the mains like you said, so you could have been wrong then?
3) I can understand how the light bulb would limit the AC when the current is going thru the bulb first then to the trans but what happens when the current is reversed and it is going thru the trans first then the bulb during the cycling? isint the trans geting hot about 50% of the time???? as I said I'm not to savvy about this stuff, electricity is like one of those enigmas to me and it cant be explained as flowing water not when its AC lol to complicated.
Except for a tiny amount the XFMR Power in = Power out
So a 12VAC 10A secondary will draw 1A at 120VAC on the primary
The step down xfmr reduces 120v to 12v ( 10:1 ) and at the same time
it transforms 1A to 10 Amps both ratios are 10 and 120x1 = 120 = 12x10...
2) I presume you looked at the magnet copper wires attaches to the
terminals of the xfmr.
3) AC current is identical in either direction, except when
semiconductors are used.
when you told me to use the thinner wires I was looking at the leads not the coils, but yes when I look inside I see that the thinner red wires (leads) are hooked to thin magnetic or cooper wires making the coils on one side and the other side are thicker coil wires that are silver in color maybe aluminum or another type of uncoated steel wire.
your third explanation about AC still made no sense as far as what I was trying to understand,,, if current is passing thru bulb first then it makes sense since the bulb is taking most of the heat, but what happens when the current with all that heat is reversed on the cycle and passes thru the trans first ?? how can the bulb be getting all the heat when the cycle is such that the current passes thru the trans first?????
Current does not transfer heat it only generates repetitive heat.
It the lamp impedance is small compared to the primary winding
the lamp will be dim and indicate safe to apply full line power..
On the other hand if the lamp impedance is large compared to the
secondary winding the lamp will be bright and do not attempt to
power it from the line..
heat is a product of voltage across a device and the current through it....
from what I understand, voltage is only the driving force and current is what I associate with amps or what creates heat , voltage will give shocks but amps will kill. I made 48Kv arcs with my FBT and they did not heat my electrodes at all, but when I had another type of arc witch had more amps it heated up one of the electrodes red hot.
the first time i hooked the lamp it was bright and it was hooked to the red wires witch were going to thin copper coated wires. According to you these were suppose to be the primaries.
when i hooked the lamp to the white wires witch were hooked to the thicker coil wires it was dim or less bright. So am i to assume that these white wires with thicker coils is the primary? than this would make it a step up trans right?
since primary has fewer turns and is hooked to 120v then sec has thiner more coils and is higher output volatge.
The Primary of a step down transformer
The Secondary of a step down transformer
The magnet wires are Solid copper windings with an insulating material.
The ends are stripped down to bare wire so it will accept solder on the
pre-solder tinned terminals.
Here are some things I want to point out on my trans:
1) both red and white wires say 22AWG , but the white wires are thicker? or is this just thicker insulation? what does this tell us?.
2) white wires seem to be attached to thicker exposed wires I could not see well inside but i do see about two exposed wires wraped around some whitish epoxy these may be just leads to the white wires or perhaps they are the coils.
3) red wires are attached to thin copper coils.
4) lightbulb is brighter on red mains wires.
5)lightbulb is dimer on white mains wires.
when i did the test i did what u said and attached the bulb and red thin wires to mains,, this gave bright bulb,,u now say not to do that? i later put bulb on white thick wires to mains and light was less bright.
so what can you conclude from this?
thank you very much
and measure the voltage on the output
measure the input and compare the ratio.
If the bulb is not too bright try it with a 60W bulb
and if probable a 100W bulb.
2) This made no sense to me, I thought if you apply a resistance across the wires like the coils of a transformer the needle will only go up slightly since there is resistance.
3) if both sides of trans are ok then why was there no reading on voltmeter when I was doing bulb test? does this mean that maybe the iron core is broken?
2)My mains is 120V at 60HZ so put the voltmeter on 150 Vac as the only options are 15 ,150 and 1000, the display needle has up to 15 V only? so do I have to multiply this by 10 wherever the needle ends up provided I have it set at 150?.
3)I tested the mains directly with my voltmeter and the needle was close to 15 or 150 it seemed like I was getting around 130-140Vac ? shouldn't it be only 120? or is 120 more like an rms value so they give it more juice in order to accommodate a load while averaging around 120?
4)What would happen if I reversed the connections and plugged the white wires to the bulb and main?
5)Anyways I got no reading on the voltmeter what does this mean please?.
2) times ten yes.
3) Measuring mains where you live at different times of day can vary all over
from 90 VAC to 140 VAC all readings are assumed RMS.
Its probably what L said.
what is L????
Now going back to my transformer, if it was working properly and was 120 to 12 v then am I correct in thinking that the mains can be directly hooked to the thin red wires and this will allow me to get a reading of 12v on my voltmeter witch is connected to the secondary thicker white wires?.
If you want answers you need to feed some current into the XFMR
and that is what the incandescent bulb does without the chance
that the XFMR wired to AC line will blow up in your face.
A neon tester shows presence of voltage only @3$% !!!!
Well I did this setup again using a 100W bulb and it worked but the needle only read about 1.5V?? I think its because the bulb was drawing to much and not allowing enough current to pass to the secondary, maybe if i tried with 40 W it will read higher but if it really is a 120 to 12V step down then why was it not working when I hooked it directly to the mains without bulb??? it was geting fried instead?
was damaged ( fried is the EE term ) and you now have shorted turns.
Then you mentioned the needle of your meter wanged over to the side, you now have a compromised system.
A 100W bulb is the strongest drive power.
The 40W is the lowest power first intended drive.
It was getting fried because the magnetic design of a 12VAC output cannot
support 120 VAC without saturating the iron core and driving the xfmr into a
hot toaster oven.
if 100W was strongest drive then why was I only getting 1.5v out when it should have been 12v??. Isint the strongest and most accurate test to simply hook the trans directly to the mains?.
I never said that I put 120V on the low 12 volt sec side??? I said I simply removed the bulb and hooked the primary directly in the mains that's when it fried , still don't know why this happened ? besides did int you say that trans can be reversed from step down to step up? I am the one who thought this would not work cause the low side is not made to handle it not unless I am using low voltages like say 12 to 36v like batteries ,,,However I did try this and the bulb glowed weaker and I only got 1 v instead of 1.5 .
In any case I think the whole thing is shot.
2)supposing I did the test with incandescent bulbs and still got no output on my voltmeter? but i had continuity on sec side when tested on voltmeter?
3)Also I thought trans are usually hooked directly into mains without need of some resistance is this no how they work? I guess the bulb was just there for safety, but why did it cook when i took the bulb off? I am quite sure we had the right wires going to the mains, I did like you said and used the smaller wires.
1) I think the slightly thinner wires are the red ones are these suppose to be the primaries? and the ones I should hook to the mains along with the bulb?.
2) So the thicker white wires are the secondaries witch I should hook to the voltmeter? I thought the thick ones were suppose to be the primary or the ones that receive the larger voltage?
3) Is the lightbulb acting like a ballast or some sort of safety resistance? because the higher the wattage the more current it will pull correct?
4) I need to be sure what I am hooking to what as I don't want to risk burning it or making a fire or does this even matter as long as I got a bulb on?
5) You think this is a step down transformer?
6) What is the point of this test? to tell me what the step down ratio of the transformer is?
7) Do I really need the bulb?
8) My voltmeter is analog and not digital will this be ok?