Has anyone tried to bypass the Lid Lock on a Kenmore Oasis or Whirlpool Cabrio Washer and been successful?

Ark-Les makes the switch. The original part number was 8563937. They redesigned it and the new part number is W10059230. I am able to make the machine think that it is unlocked and ready to operate. I can even make it think it is locked, but I can not operate the machine in the locked mode, I get the DL code. If no one has tried this, maybe one of you can figure out a way to make it work.
Thank you in advance for your assistance. If you need wiring schematics for the machine, let me know and I'll send them to you....

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Ok I figured out how to solve this. You need to use a 12 v lamp (no led) and connect it to the two cables from the little dc motor. It will work as a "opening-closing lamp".

Then you need to find the common cable 5 VDC (mine was white). Weld together the common with the lid tilt mechanism cable so the washer will "think" the lid is always closed. Finally there will be left 2 cables (red and blue in my case) You need a 2 pole 3 way rocker or switch . The common cable (white) should be welded to the common and the two cables should be connected to the switch in order to send 5 VDC to the open or the closed. (This switch will prevent the washer to receive locked and unlocked signals at the same time).

The only trick is when you start your washing cycle it should be in unlocked. When the lamp starts to flash you need to switch to locked. If you miss the correct timing the washer will display DL and you will need to start over. If you are using a led instead of a lamp probably you will need to check polarity in the DC motor because it works both ways and diodes don`t work the same way.

If you have any issues please feel free to ask. I can post pictures if you need them as well.


Hey Erik. Sangines, could I possibly see post of picks on how you bypass the lid switch, with using lid harness, tks

Hi Larz1976.
I´m sorry but I got rid of that washing machine like a year or so. I can´t get any pictures but let me draw a diagram today and I will post it later.


Hey erik, I got all the things I needed to get this bypass, I'm here on site, and I tried to wire it, and im coming up with codes, du and dl,

The washer does the following:

First when you turn on the machine the display will show the time remaining. Open the lid and close it. The following step is pressing the start button. The tricky part comes after this.

The washing machine is going to send a pulse signal to the dc motor (or in my case to the 12V lamp) to close the lid mechanism. The lamp will flash like 2 or 3 times simulating the lid closing actuator. At this moment you should switch the rocker from open to closed and leave it in closed. If the timing is correct, the cycle will start and the lid lock led will be on.

If you miss the correct timing, the display will show DL error (door lock i guess).

The lamp is intended to replace the dc motor in order to show that the washing machine is trying to close the door. If not replaced then you should be aware of the dc motor noise.


KevinW1661 year ago

Not sure if this but thought I would pass on this potential solution to others running into this problem. Our Kenmore Oasis would come up with a DL code unless we held the lid down a ways into the wash (2 minutes?). Anyway the issue turned out to be some screws on the lid itself that hold a panel onto the lid. Because they were lose the panel extended a little lower and caused the lid to not align correctly with the locking mechanism. Tightening the screws fixed the problem.

Switch on a Maytag

lemonie8 years ago
OK, so you've got a motor that drives the lid-lock, "lock" "lid" and "home" switches.
I guess one tells the machine the lid is closed, another that the lock is locked and the other that the lock is open. It'll need the last two to control the lock motor I should think.
The problem would be in how you're tampering with these switches. Could you remove the lid altogether and just insert the lid-catch where it belongs?

jdeloach (author)  lemonie8 years ago
No, you can't just move it into position. It seems that the machine (control board) needs to receive a certain amount of resistance from the motor to know that the latch has moved into position, rather it be open or closed. i think this may be where my problem is. Its the timing of that resistance in coordination with all lock connections. But, Im not sure of this. Thats why I turn to Instructables hoping someone like yourself could help.
If you goggle the 2 part numbers that I listed above, you can find images of the switch. enlarge them and look at the circuit voltages, might add some insight.
Thanks again.

There are 3 switches, and we don't yet know what you've done with them (or for what purpose). What about just removing the lid, but putting the catch back?

jdeloach (author)  lemonie8 years ago
Its all one switch and it has to be functional to operate the machine. right now the switch is not functioning properly. so I am trying to bypass it. ultimately saving 50-75 bucks to repair.

Oh right, I hadn't (until now) realised there was a problem with the machine...

If it's just got two wires one would hope it could be replaced with a manual switch. However, it sounds like you tried that. How do you know that it's that switch that is faulty and not something else?

jdeloach (author)  lemonie8 years ago
Found the Tech Troubleshooting Guide online went through the steps.

Expensive aren't they? Since it's broken, have you thought about taking it apart? Could be corroded perhaps, a clean might fix it?

jdeloach (author)  lemonie8 years ago
It is completely apart at this time. There seems to be some type of liquid filled diode, resistor, something. never seen this before. So I started probing and jumping different connections. Thats how I was able to get the machine to think it was unlocked and make it think it is locked but thats were it stops. Before It would not do anything but give me a "LID" code. At the current time I am using a toggle switch to perform the lock and unlock steps and a pair of pliers to place resistance on the motor. unsure if I need to use a SPDT relay or if I need an inline resistor to one of my connections. The whole liquid filled looking thing is throwing me off.

The liquid component sounds like a standard "tilt switch".... If it's a class container and the liquid is silvery in color,  that's definitely what it is, and the liquid is mercury. (If not, it still might be a tilt switch using a less-conductive fluid; mercury is discouraged these days if it can be avoided since it's a hazardous material.)

Weird. Maybe that's why they're expensive?
I'm stuck on this...

lemonie8 years ago
Do post the schematic (add images button).
You want to ride this or mix mortar with it?