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Help with a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw switch?

I acquired a CRA from my Dad this last spring and the switch wasn't working right so I ordered a new one. Other than it is plastic it looks the same but the wiring for the new switch isn't like the old. The model of the CRA is TPC-2610B. There is only 4 wires on the old and the new switch. The guy sent me a new wiring diagram for the new switch. It doesn't wire up like my old one exactly.                  Looking at the back of the switch where the wires go in my old one has 2 red wires at the top close to the trigger and a white wire bottom left and a black wire bottom right. The new switch indicates to wire the black top right close to the trigger and a red one as well on the left and at the bottom below the black wire goes a red wire. Then the white wire would be in the same position as it was on the old switch. I don't know if this is right or not and do not won't to mess up my saw if it isn't. Maybe the old switch wasn't wired right, I don't know and I am certainly no electrician.The switches look the same. Somebody who knows more about this type of stuff might guide me in the right direction please!

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iceng1 year ago

Wiring diag and picture can do better explain, then a rambling laymen text description.

The better saw switches close and open both sides of of the power line and have four wires.

Most arm saws draw a lot more current when starting, about 8 times more.

That start current is rough on the power switch and contact failure is expected.

There is not much you can do to hurt the motor, excluding locked rotor stall condition.

superdooper (author)  iceng1 year ago

Thank you iceng for responding. I was afraid my description wouldn't be enough. So here goes another attempt. The drawed diagram is what come with the new switch. You will probably have to enlarge both photos to see clearly. The other photo is of the old switch that I have removed from the saw. After you enlarge the switch you see 2 red wires at the left end and a black and what used to be white wire (just copper wire now) at the right end. The diagram isn't wired like the old switch. 2 reds at the top and white and blk at the bottom. One side is just the opposite of the old switch. Blk to the left and red to the right. Look at the diagram and you will see what I mean. I just don't want to wire it wrong and screw up the saw. Can't provide new switch picture it is partially installed but it has the trigger attached to it. It's one piece and all plastic. The old switch had a metal trigger and it is not attached, as you can see in the picture, to the old switch. I bet this is all clear as mud..... Sorry!

IMG_0001.jpgcraftsman radial arm saw switch 001.JPG

This should be easier

motorsaw.jpg
superdooper (author)  iceng1 year ago

Thanks iceng for responding so quickly. I was wanting to use this saw this week if I could get the switch put back. WHY did their diagram indicate the other way? I didn't want to be any more confused than I already am.... ;)

superdooper (author)  superdooper1 year ago

iceng thanks for the info on the switch. Works just fine, thank you! thank you!

Glad for you :-)

Now you can click me as the Best Answer !

superdooper (author)  iceng1 year ago

iceng I would gladly give you the best answer award but I don't know how! Sorry!

Don't worry about it... Have a nice turkey day :-)

Glad I was able to help.

The best saw switches are no-volt release, so if the power fails, the blade in always OFF.

I replied last night but was late and maybe forgot to press post.

Never Knew of a (No-volt release) in a switch. I do make a cut out relay that turns off power to my computers in a storm that knocks out power over and over.

Also know about dynamic braking and that safety device that stops a blade in one saw tooth if it sense a finger or hot-dog about to be cut.

All European fixed power tools must have NVR switches by law.