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How can I integrate my garage remote in my car?

Hi.

I'd like to get rid of the remote battery and also make sure it is able to transmit with a reasonable range. The remote takes one 11A 6V small alkaline battery which doesn't last long so that too often I have to leave the car out. And they're not cheap either. I'm afraid that putting the remote inside the dashboard will reduce the range and I've also read somewhere that the car electric circuits tend to get spikes, so I'm afraid to fry the remote. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Paulo

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Jayefuu4 years ago
What model is the remote?
psargaco (author)  Jayefuu4 years ago
Hi Jayefuu. The model is a Hormann HSE 2.

Thanks,

Paulo
Have you opened it up yet? If so could you show us a picture of the circuit board? If I read it right, your issue isn't with positioning/wiring the remote, but with how you turn the 12V from your car battery into the 6V that your remote needs?

If you've opened it a picture of inside would be useful. Then we can see what your remote does with the 6 volts. ie it regulate it somehow.
psargaco (author)  Jayefuu4 years ago
Sure I have opened it. I do it practically every time I open the building's garage door to clean the contacts and in hope of extracting enough power to make it work. Silly, I know.

I'm attaching a picture of the remote.

IMAG0115.jpg
What's the label on the IC in the middle?

https://www.instructables.com/file/FCRHPJAH5TUCAJ5/?size=ORIGINAL
psargaco (author)  Jayefuu4 years ago
If I can read it correctly, what it says is:
2F629
7SN054B (this is either a "B" or an "8")
4BX

Maybe tomorrow with sunlight I can be more precise. The label color has low contrast with the IC and I don't have a magnifying glass.
The chip on the left is the transmitter (TH72032). The chip in the middle is a PIC microcontroller (PIC12F629). Both need a 5V supply.

Can you take the PCB out the plastic case and take a photo of the other side? I'm looking for a 5V regulator.

You'll probably be okay cutting up a USB lead and using a car (12V) to usb (5V) converter to power it, just solder the power leads from the USB to the battery terminals. If that works you can then go about wiring it in more permanently. I want to see the other side of the board, because if we put 5V in before the regulator then depending on what it is, it might not work with a 5V input.

A suitable USB converter on Amazon: link

James
USBcablewiring[1].jpg
There's a SOT23 component which is probably an LDO reg.
Good spot. Looks like the middle button applies power when pressed and powers up the ICs. It's connected to the middle pin of the sot23 and there's a cap going from the button's top contact to the ground plane.
TBH, it only needs a diode drop to be in spec for a PIC and the transmitter chip, so its either an LDO or a diode.
psargaco (author)  Jayefuu4 years ago
Unfortunately I will not be able to show you the back of the board for now. I will not be back home for another week and I don't have any tools with me. I'm not sure if the board is screwed to the case, the truth is that it just won't budge and I don't really want to destroy the case. Maybe we can continue this chat after I get access to my tools.

Anyway James, thanks for your hints, you have been very helpful.

Cheers,

Paulo
Sure. PM me when you're back and I'll draw some circles on the picture of where to poke with a multimeter to check we're doing the right thing.
Put the guts of the remote in a waterproof box, with a small, well filtered, voltage regulator, to run it off the vehicle supply and connect the BUTTON inside the cab. The box can be placed behind the grill, or even in the plastic bumper.
+1. But I'd try it inside the car under the dash. Mine works great inside the car. I keep it in the door pocket down low and operate it there. If it doesn't work there then he can easily move it somewhere else.
Worth a shot.