How to repair a small metal joint? Polaroid SLR 680 camera.
I am asking if anyone has any better suggestions for fixing this joint? So far my best plan is to cut out a small metal bridge, and attach it using epoxy resin.
I have attached 3 pictures, an overall shot, a close up, and a comparison shot to the other side which is in one piece. They are all high res, so you can click on the images and view them larger for more detail.































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I dunno, just a guess I suppose.
I have never been able to do much with it, but if you can braze and then file off the rough edges, that might be the strongest hold
Brazing if suitable for the metal will puddle a poor bond adding with blobs..
Heliarc weld, Someone with a good arm could weld it with shields and cooling clamps. Heliarc can do Al and Fe stampings or pot metal. Just lap (cover) the brake with a short metal link of the same metal type and tig it in 7 places.
Spending another £20 for a duplicate camera with different broken parts might be cheaper way to go. Can you still get 680 film?
Regards,
I will sort you out an avatar soon, I promise.
Is there enough clearance to build something with milliput around the break?
Where the back side of the hinge rubs against another piece (leaving out riveting on that side), it looks like you can either replace the end bit of the hings (everything after the break) with another piece of metal bent to shape or epoxy (on CLEAN, ROUGHENED metal) a chunk of metal over both.
You could give up on the hinge and epoxy it stiff and open : )
You might be able to flip the broken side free of the backing piece and rivet a new chunk over both, but that might not let the hinge work well.
You could glue or MAYBE screw a new hinge to the outside of the case. Would look ugly, but would be easier than the other options : )
Looks like pot metal, from the surface of the break (and the fact that it broke at all)...
Brazing sounds plausible, but you'd need to get it clear of surrounding plastic, right?
Glue... I'd worry about the strength-versus-fragility issue, especially for a moving part. Normal superglue, for example, wouldn't seem a good choice here; not enough surface area, and it doesn't deal remarkably well with flexing. One of the newer flexible superglues might work, but that's still a pretty small surface to take the strain.
If space permitted, I'd be tempted to "sister" the joint, cutting another piece of metal to suitable shape and attaching it to bridge the gap. That would give you larger surface areas for attachment on either side, and would stiffen the joint.
Steve
. But epoxy would be much easier than brazing/soldering and pretty cheap. I'd give it a try. Cleanliness is next to Godliness - good surface prep is a must.