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The resistor isn't designed to stop the lights from flashing. The lights flash because the power going to them isn't smooth and consistent. You'll need to add some filtering to smooth out the voltage. Apparently the car's rectifier isn't doing a vary good job of smoothing out the AC from the alternator.
I know this thread is old, but for future reference. What is the reason you need to remove them? Do you want to fix them or are you removing the LED's. If you need to remove the resistors, you can just clip them off and either cap the ends or tape them.
...You may just have the resistors wired incorrectly or have a loose wire, as the possibility of the resistor being bad is very small. The resistor needs to be installed as a bridge between the negative wire and the flashing wire.
It is easy to get this wrong.
It should also be firmly screwed to a metal base with small sheet metal screws, usually #4's. These usually need to be pre-drilled to prevent snapping the screw.
No that's not what a resistor does. A resistor limits the current flow. To stop the flashing you'll need to filter the power through a capacitor.
Dude... if you don't know, don't talk. His indicator lights are flashing too fast. Would YOU stop your indicator lights from flashing? You're hilarious. The car computer measures the current through the bulbs using a shunt resistor inside the circuit with the flashing relay. If the current is too low, the car thinks a bulb is burned out, so it start to flash faster so you will notice that and replace the bulb. A resistor is placed in parallel with the new LED bulb in order to absorb more power, because the LEDs alone cannot consume that much current for the same amount of light (they're efficient) and the car thinks the bulb is burned out, hence the "hyperflashing". He needs a lower value resistor, but not as low as a 21W light bulb when it's lit (a bit higher than that will work: start from a larger value and try smaller values until you get it). So again... don't comment if you don't know the problem.
If you're not certain about something, don't answer a question with a guess. A resistor across the bulb wires creates a load that stops the vehicle from thinking the bulb is burned out because LED lights draw very little current. 25w or 50w/6 ohms works perfectly and easy to find Josh
That's not his problem.
is it wired between the running or break light and the signal hot or the signal ground and hot? the idea is to add resistance so the flasher has the right load
I'll be honest, I've never heard of "hyper flashing", and I really don't know diddly about your vehicle's flash circuit, but it almost sounds as if you need to change the flash rate of the circuit that toggles, not the load (even if the LED(s) require a resistor to dissipate excess voltage) . AFAIK, that would be a timing resistor, not a load resistor.
I'm not 100% sure as my car doesn't have this set up, but I think some vehicles these days have a system that makes the turn signal light on the dash flash faster than normal when it detects a blown bulb, also causing the remaining bulbs to flash quickly. If you replace a bulb with an LED, the load is so small that the system thinks the bulb has blown and flashes quickly. The resistor is supposed to simulate a normal bulb element in cars that don't have LED flashers as standard.......I think....
He needs the correct resistors.
The problem is the LEDs load is so small the car thinks the bulbs are broken. What was the rating of the original bulbs ?
30W bulb = 12^2/R > R=12^2/30 or 4.8Ohms. If it thinks there's TWO, or 60W, then you'd need 2.4Ohms to simulate the same load somewhere.
what don't work? A resistor is just a resistor what can go
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Posted:Aug 5, 2014
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