Removing chlorides from a solution to leave only metallic copper?
I'm trying to deposit metallic copper into a piece of wood and i'm doing it with a solution of copper chloride (the alternative pcb etchant to the ferric stuff). I want to deposit metallic copper into the wood where it has soaked in and remove the chlorides altogether. Bearing in mind that i don't want much in the way of another solution, how could it be done? Could I drop in some lead to precipitate out the chloride ions or is there something else that would steal the chloride ions from copper that wouldn't be too hard for a hobbiest to obtain?
7
answers
|
Answer it!
|
sort by:
active |
newest |
oldest
Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) can reduce copper sulfate to metallic copper - I've accidentally copper-plated flasks with this reaction before. I'm not sure about copper chloride, but it would probably work.
Doing a little research turned up a paper (Materials Letters 61, 2007, 1125–1129) with a procedure to produce powdered copper metal this way: "In a typical preparation of copper powder, 1000 ml solution containing 300 g CuSO4·5H2O and dispersion agent was added during 40 min to a stirred 2800 ml solution containing 250 g ascorbic acid. Aqueous ammonia was employed to control pH value. The temperature was kept 50 °C–70 °C for 2 h to carry out the reaction sufficiently, to reduce copper ion in the solution to metallic copper."
Their optimal conditions were two hours at 70 °C, with the solution at pH 6. They used gelatin to keep the power dispersed, but it sounds like that wouldn't much matter for your purposes!
Doing a little research turned up a paper (Materials Letters 61, 2007, 1125–1129) with a procedure to produce powdered copper metal this way: "In a typical preparation of copper powder, 1000 ml solution containing 300 g CuSO4·5H2O and dispersion agent was added during 40 min to a stirred 2800 ml solution containing 250 g ascorbic acid. Aqueous ammonia was employed to control pH value. The temperature was kept 50 °C–70 °C for 2 h to carry out the reaction sufficiently, to reduce copper ion in the solution to metallic copper."
Their optimal conditions were two hours at 70 °C, with the solution at pH 6. They used gelatin to keep the power dispersed, but it sounds like that wouldn't much matter for your purposes!
That is quite intriguing, I must try that sometime.
Nov 28, 2011. 10:38 PMankur2893
says:
add sodium carbonate and abt a test tube of water heat it until it is mixed thoroughly, then cool it, centrifuge it. the clear solution u get it contains chlorine radicals. i am sorry i dont remember how to separate sodium from copper, that i'll get back to u later. ii hope this was helpful!
Chuck an iron nail into the solution and copper will be precipitated.
The trick is to get the copper to precipitate in the wood.
How big/porous is the wood? Is there any possibility of inserting an electrode into the wood, to possibly drive copper into the wood via electrolysis?
The trick is to get the copper to precipitate in the wood.
How big/porous is the wood? Is there any possibility of inserting an electrode into the wood, to possibly drive copper into the wood via electrolysis?
Its a small bit of cactus that''s been soaking for a few days, so its fairly porous. I'm trying to artificially fossilise it (it doesn't seem that difficult to do really, I hear its used to preserve some types of samples on microscope slides).
what I'm trying to go for here is something that will steal the chlorine and precipitate out due to solubility issues and can take as long as it wants while leaving the copper in the wood. But if that doesn't work, how would I go about the electrolyses?
what I'm trying to go for here is something that will steal the chlorine and precipitate out due to solubility issues and can take as long as it wants while leaving the copper in the wood. But if that doesn't work, how would I go about the electrolyses?
I'm not sure, that was a bit blue-sky.
Fossilising might be easier if you try an impregnate it with minerals.
Dry the cactus out a bit, and make a hot saturated solution of a soluble mineral (traditionally, this means "epsom salts").
Soak the cactus in the solution, then dry it out.
More blue-sky:
Bore a hole down the centre of the cactus.
Stand the cactus in the solution, so that the liquid doesn't quite cover the top of the cactus.
Put a few drops of oil on the water, to slow down evaporation. Do not get any oil in the hole.
Dip a straw into the hole, put your finger on the end and draw the liquid out of the hole.
Hopefully, this will mean that the solution penetrates through the cactus, and evaporate from the middle of the cactus, leaving the minerals in the cactus.
Fossilising might be easier if you try an impregnate it with minerals.
Dry the cactus out a bit, and make a hot saturated solution of a soluble mineral (traditionally, this means "epsom salts").
Soak the cactus in the solution, then dry it out.
More blue-sky:
Bore a hole down the centre of the cactus.
Stand the cactus in the solution, so that the liquid doesn't quite cover the top of the cactus.
Put a few drops of oil on the water, to slow down evaporation. Do not get any oil in the hole.
Dip a straw into the hole, put your finger on the end and draw the liquid out of the hole.
Hopefully, this will mean that the solution penetrates through the cactus, and evaporate from the middle of the cactus, leaving the minerals in the cactus.
I'm fairly certain most things won't work, but I did read that permineralization can be done with native metals(not sure how) and since I had some CuCl2 laying around I figured it was worth a try.
I'd be much better off buying a silicate solution and following the more detailed processes I've seen written, and pyritization seems relatively simple too.
I'd be much better off buying a silicate solution and following the more detailed processes I've seen written, and pyritization seems relatively simple too.
 |
