i need the front button layout of a Regent HT-391 HTS?

my cousin gave me one of these but the front clip broke off and apparently got thrown away, the two plugs for the front buttons have labels as to what they are but there are only 5 buttons and one remote (the thing that picks up a remote, i cant think of the name of it right now). but there are 9 plugs listed in this order

GND
DOWN
UP
SOUND
INPUT
ST-BY(standby)
+5V
REM
MGND

the other port is for the LED's, i have no interest in hooking those up. all i need to know is how to hook up these wires to use them.
if someone has one of these and wouldn't mind popping the front off and taking a picture of the wires or board if there is one. i should be able to put it together using just that depending on the quality of the picture and if they are what im needing.

FYI dont post on here just go buy a new system, i have a pioneer 5.1 1k watt HTS. im fixing this box so i can use it outside when im working on stuff


here's a pic of the front of the thing, i just need a picture of the other side unfortunately.
http://i46.tinypic.com/2zi3tau.jpg

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Very often on things like this, consumer electronics, the buttons on the front panel are logic level inputs, pulled high by a resistor, and enabled low. That sounds complicated, so I drew a picture of it. Large version here:
https://www.instructables.com/file/F0426L7GR3932AM/

Basically the input looks at a voltage divider. The top side of the voltage divider is connected to +5V through a resistor R , and the bottom side is connected to ground (GND) through a normally-open switch, a push-button.

While the button is unpushed, the switch is open, and the input sees +5 volts, or logic high (because the impedance of the switch is much larger than R when open.)

When the button is pushed, the switch is closed, and the input sees 0 volts, or something close to it, logic low (because the impedance of the switch is much smaller than R when closed.)

Easy right?

But what does this mean for the inputs on your device?  Well, my guess is that all you have to "push" these missing buttons, is to pull them low, or in other words "short" them to ground. For example, momentarily connecting  the wires labeled ST-BY and GND should turn this thing on, if its wired the way I think it is.

Although given that you and I don't know how it is wired, it may not be such a good idea to just go randomly touching wires together.  For example touching together +5V and GND would be bad, because that would short the power supply.

A safer way to sort of probe these things and see what they do, would be by connecting them together through a small resistor, like maybe 1K, or maybe 100 ohms if you want to probe more forcefully.

Guessing that of the wires listed, the five intended to connect to buttons on the front are ST-BY, INPUT, SOUND, UP, DOWN.  Also expecting these inputs are enabled by pulling them low, i.e. to GND. 

If pulling them low doesn't work, then it may be the case that they want to be pulled high, i.e. to +5V.  Again try through your 1K or 100 ohm test resistor, to make sure that the current that flows is not too large to hurt things.
typical-button-pulled-high-enabled-low.jpg
egammoc (author)  Jack A Lopez6 years ago
i dont know where my moms camera is but i will get pictures of this thing as soon as she wakes up. hopefully making your theory more of a fact. im still a beginner with this stuff, i can read that thing you wrote but if you write one that tells you how to run 1 of each computing part (anything you would find on any circuit board) it makes no sense to me, where can i learn to read those better? answer that if you would please
If I follow what you're saying, your home theater amplifier is missing its front panel, and with that panel those buttons that allow you to control it.  Yet there is connector that remains, with labels like
{GND, DOWN, UP, SOUND, INPUT, ST-BY, +5V, REM, MGND}

I imagine that the places (circuits) where the buttons used to go can be determined by probing the wires in that connector with the suggestive labels  That's what I was saying before, but maybe I could elaborate on that idea a little bit.

First use a voltmeter to determine if  {GND, and +5V} are labeled as expected.  The voltage between them should be something close to +5 volts.

Next measure the voltages on those other wires, with respect to GND; i.e put the black probe on GND, and put the red probe on {DOWN, DOWN, UP, SOUND, INPUT, ST-BY}  I am guessing that these voltages will also be roughly +5 V, maybe a little less, with respect to GND.

See the first attached picture.
https://www.instructables.com/file/FL4681DGR9T2D1E/

The way the resistor-and-clip-lead tool works is you hold, or attach one end to GND, then touch the resistor to the inputs you want to "pull down".  This tool is like a button simulator, sort of.  A true push-button would only have a resistance of a few ohms when closed, i.e. when closed it would look just like a wire.   However it's a little bit dangerous to just go sticking a wire to GND into something that you are not totally sure what it does.  So the resistor is a compromise between a true push-button switch (like a wire when closed) and something that will not draw too much current if it gets stuck in the wrong place.  As before, I suggest starting with 1K, and if that doesn't do anything, i.e. the amplifier does not respond as if its buttons are being pushed,  then try 100 ohms.
https://www.instructables.com/file/F9PQF2ZGR9SO4JG/

Once you're totally confident of which wire does what, then you can solder in something more permanent, like real actual push buttons, e.g. those scavenged of some other piece of trash (last picture)
https://www.instructables.com/file/FHMB60LGR9SXMQI/

Erm, almost forgot:  Regarding the question of where to learn more about reading/drawing circuit diagrams, I humbly suggest the following links:

http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/circuits/u9l4a.cfm

http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/mastascu/elessonshtml/StartEE.html

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/



imaginary-circuit-with-voltmeter-edit.jpgimaginary-circuit-with-resistor-probe.jpgboard-with-buttons.jpg
egammoc (author)  Jack A Lopez6 years ago
sorry i couldn't get back to you sooner, i got caught up in another project trying to charge four 200v 470µF fast for a coil gun, after i successfully do that i want to try making a rail gun.

anyhow thank you VERY much for this, it worked too!! so well that now my friend wants me to fix his. unfortunately i think its blown the way hes describing the way its acting.

thanks jack!! two thumbs up 5/5 stars!
sshuggi6 years ago
I would need to see the inside of it, but the last two plugs seem to be for something else. The GND and +5V are going to be used for the power, and the ones in between them go in order with the buttons. I'll go out on a limb and say that the GND and +5V are for powering the LED's, and all you need to do is connect the five plugs to the buttons. If there isn't a way to connect them to the buttons, make your own. They could be as simple and sticking two wires into the plugs and touching them instead of pressing a button. (Avoid that +5V when you do that.)