single led light bulbs?

I have some single led light bulbs. I want to string 113 of them. they're 1.5 watts each and 12dcv. what transformer and gauge of wire should I use? G4 socket. there's 24 led's in each light. they're pretty small.


Picture of single led light bulbs?
sort by: active | newest | oldest
iceng3 years ago

Logically I don't believe this going to be built by you at all this is an engineering exercise, But I enjoy these exercises.

To begin that single transformer is a Stancor P-6379 twelve volt 16 Amp control transformer. It actually has two 12 volt windings so you reduce the wire size in half.

Or if you want to build a best 4 channel chase light, I would use four transformers of the Stancor P-6377 $24 each to run each channel.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.asp...

Get an eBay chase controller and flash the 4amp transformer any-way any-speed you like 2ON 2off // 1ON 3off // 3ON 1off // 1ON 1off for $99

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=MBT%20K401%2...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MBT-K401-4-Channel-Chase-L...

STANCOR P-6377.jpg
ron.stone.733 (author)  iceng3 years ago

sounds like a challenge iceng. lol. I'll get it figured out, just needed some guidance in the right direction.

iceng iceng3 years ago

Even 16 gauge house wire or blue, green, red and yellow stranded reels will be pricy . Make sure you get easy mount G4 sockets with pigtails for wire nuts

ron.stone.733 (author) 3 years ago

so I need to change wire gauge as I go? if I wire it in a parallel circuit, all the bulbs should receive the same voltage but in a series circuit is voltage will be split between all of them correct?

That's right, you'll have to wire them in parallel, because otherwise you'd need 1356 volts to drive them all. !!

You don't HAVE to change wire gauge. I'm just pointing out you could.

1356V??? Seems doable! Just get a 2KV MOT! and some huge resistors and a good-sized ballast for the MOT! lol

ron.stone.733 (author)  -max-3 years ago

ya. I'll get right on that. Now what if i wanted to make the lights chase and blink. Easy or not? These are going around the bottom of a theater marquee. Taking the place of the old lights that dont work anymore.

20140628_074052.jpg

Like steveastrouk said, you will need a buffer amplifier on the output so the output of the chip in his ebay link will work. I am thinking a MOSFET or small relay with a high impedance input. There will need to be one for every 'channel,' so in the case of his link, you will ten buffers. They will allow the LEDs in your application to all be powered by the signals produced by the chip in the circuit. If it is a constant current output from the chip, you may need a medium resistance vause from the output of an of the channels to ground, in place of the LED. That same node would connect to a MOSFET and switch it on and off, and if you were using N channel MOSFETs, you would connect all of the 'source's to ground, and in the same way all the anodes are connected to a resistor, which connects up to some common +whatever Voltage, and all the individual cathodes from the LEDs connect to their corresponding MOSFETs drain. Is is not difficult in theory, it is actually very simple, but a bit tedious to prototype and solder together.

His LEDs are for 12V operation, he just needs the transistors.

ron.stone.733 (author)  steveastrouk3 years ago

why cant I post a link like the one you did from e-bay? anyways there's a 1-10 channel light show LED programmable controller chaser PIC Microcontroller on ebay. wish I could post the link. would that work or do the bulbs I want to use pull too many amps? as the pic I posted of the Marquee, I could do two different sets. A left side and right side if I wanted. Then there's 5 bulbs on the face of it. so 54 per side. the you tube video on the ebay page shows them running more than one LED off of each cannel but I doubt the combination the little bulbs that they are using would not come close to the amperage of mine.

ron.stone.733 (author)  ron.stone.7333 years ago

my bad. counted wrong. there's 9 in the front, 4 on each side of that and then 48 on each side. so I could do 52 on each side then something different with the 9 in front.

ron.stone.733 (author)  -max-3 years ago

easy for you. Lol. I'm a mechanic by trade, so i can read a schematic pretty well and envision in my head how mechanical things work. But when it comes to electrical i need to visually see how the different pieces are wired in order to understand. I was trying to think of it in terms like a string of Christmas lights. They're 120v, small box at the beginning of the string that controls them with 3 or 4 wires and has a Numerous amount of different settings. Granted the bulbs i want to use are quit a bit larger and pull more amps then LED xmas lights. Im not looking to have them do 10 different things. Just chase from one side to the other and probably blink.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291213073517?lpid=82

Its slightly more complicated if you want to drive say 10 LEDS at once, but not impossibly so - you need to add a simple chip to handle the power for you, or a bunch of transistors.

That would not be hard with either a fully digital arduino or microprocessor solution, and you can also do that if you had a ton of comparators or op amps, and some oscillators, and/or some logic gates and other miscellaneous passive circuitry.

You can even go a fully mechanical rout, and make a slowly rotating cylinder with grooves cut in it where a small pin can ride in and press a micro switch. Thats how it was done in the old days!

ron.stone.733 (author)  -max-3 years ago

well theres a few words i would have to google the definitions of. Lol. So i couldn't just buy some xmas lights with the chaser etc. Built in and wire it inline with my LED lights? But old school is more my speed. Dont know of i would want to make 113 of them though.

You could certainly do that! BTW, op amps are a special type of differential amplifier (they measure the difference in voltage between 2 points) and normally, they have gains of nearly infinity! (the output is basicly ON or OFF. if the voltage on the inverting input voltage is lower or higher than the non-inverting input respectfully) depending on the specific configuration. Comparators are essentially the same thing, but are better suited for switching fast rather than making accurate amplifiers that can multiply and divide voltages. There are some great TY videos on how they work, and you will probably find a few in your junk bin.

Logic gates are fairly simple digital components, and they have an output (either HIGH or LOW) and multiple inputs, and the output will change depending on all the inputs (some simple ones include AND gates, which the output is HIGH only when all the inputs are HIGH, OR gates, when any one input is HIGH, more sophisticated ones include XOR, NAND, NOR XNOR, etc.)

Oh, right, I assumed for some reason he was desoldering the LEDs for use in making a custom LED strips or something, where resistors would be important.
ron.stone.733 (author)  steveastrouk3 years ago

just checked my pockets. nope, I don't have 1356 volts to spare. thanks for the info. the image is of the transformer I'm looking at. am I on the right track?

transformer.JPG

That's the beastie you need.

That's 125mA each,14A maximum current. #10 at one end, down to #30 at the other !