A little bit of a question (related to a tutorial here on Instructables)

Well, I came across this post here a while ago, and I was lucky today to get one of these camping lights.  The problem with it, however, unlike the one that is in the tutorial (which is 24 LED), I have one that is 36-LED (pictures included).

So, if there's anything different I need to do wiring wise in comparison to the tutorial, let me know. I know I'm going to need to remove the power button on the front and the inner ring and have the power switch/power line running in from the outside of the ring. However, the upside is the inner ring, with the LEDs removed, gives me at least a template on what to cut out from the front. I've already bought a four AA battery power compartment from Radio Shack.

So, again, any recommendations about what to do different with this unit, let me know. And if anyone wants a better picture of the inside, let me know, I've got it. :D

Picture of A little bit of a question (related to a tutorial here on Instructables)
LED2.jpg
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CB2001 (author) 6 years ago
I got it done a while ago. And my mom then bought me a commercial one for me. So, I gave the ringlight to my syster, along with my old camera when I got my new one. At least its done.
CB2001 (author) 6 years ago
I've put together a rig to hold up the ring light using PVC. Here are some pics of it. Note: The front where the LED ring is going to be attached is the smaller rectangle that is vertical in front of the bigger one with the flat-head bolt. All I need to do is add a few more screws around the rectangle to hold the camera, possibly add some PVC glue to the pieces on the vertical rectangle and rig the external battery pack to the light.
DIYRL5.jpgDIYRL4.jpgDIYRL1.jpgDIYRL2.jpgDIYRL3.jpg
CB2001 (author) 7 years ago
New update: I've cut the hole bigger in the disk (to be honest, I did it a bit too big for the back piece than the front, but I'm sure I can buy some foam that can make sure the electronics aren't exposed. But it's necessary, especially to make sure that the disk isn't in the view of the lens.

But my attempt at this project has gone than just simply modifying the disk to fit on my camera. I have made an entire PVC rig to attach to the camera. This will not only keep the disk help up in front of the lens, but with just a couple of adjustments, it will make the LED light itself a slave light attached to the camera. I have to admit, I'm having some fun with this project. :D
CB2001 (author) 7 years ago
I've been looking over the LED light and about the resistor. Now, in comparison to the one row LED unit that was pictured in the tutorial, the one in the tutorial doesn't even have a resistor. So, I don't know if I will keep it or not (and if I do, I don't know how I'll be able to wire it with just one row of LED lights). I'm thinking the reason it's there is because of the fact that there are two rows, and its there so not to short out both of them, where as the one in the tutorial only has one row and no resistor because its not drawing as much power. Of course, I could be wrong with the assumption.

As spoken above, I'm going to remove the inner ring of LED lights instead of rewiring the inner ring to fit around the lens. The reason why is because because not only would I have to cut the holes for them, but the spacing of them to get them around the lens would leave bits of gaps in between them (basically, I'd have to make the diameter be where the current on/off button is). And I don't know if the outer ring would fill in the amount of light lacking in between the gaps.

But, there'd be an upside by removing the inner ring all together: I could use it for another possible project, or even trade it for another part with another user who may need it (I don't know there is a subforum here that is for trading kits, but sometimes someone just may need a part).
Kiteman7 years ago
I'd guess you'd need to short-out the part of the circuit containing the inner ring of LEDs, unless your camera lens is small enough to see through the hole that is already there.

Apart from that, carry on as given in the ible.
CB2001 (author)  Kiteman7 years ago
Yeah, I'm going to have to remove the inner "ring" (which, surprisingly enough), happens to be the same size as my camera lens. But I plan on making it about a couple of millimeters bigger, so that I can be able to do the focus and not risk the lens getting stuck.
Why not unscrew and rewire the four inner LED circuit board "arcs" and just remount them to fit around the lens? Looks like a little work with a fine scroll hand saw or a dremel. Drill new holes for the LEDs and sqeeze them in around the batteries. You could then use some epoxy putty to build up and fill in the plastic to fit.
CB2001 (author)  caitlinsdad7 years ago
That'd place the LEDs right where the old battery compartments are, but that could be doable (especially since I bought a battery compartment from Radio Shack to have it outside of the ring). I'll have to think about that a bit. BTW, I noticed something different between the 24-LED unit in the tutorial and the one I have. The one I have has a gray "capacitor" (I'm using that loosely because I, for the life of me, can't recall the name of it accurately right now) that is present (it's in the second picture). Right now, I'm testing out the lights to see how bright they are and that "capacitor" is running hot. I'm assuming its there to keep the LEDs from overheating, but I can't be sure. Am I right on this assumption? And should it stay or be removed?
That is a standard "resistor", you can look up its value corresponding to the color bands. It is to keep the battery current from blowing out the LEDs. Keep it.
CB2001 (author)  caitlinsdad7 years ago
Thanks for the input. I know it seems odd that I used the word "capacitor" instead of a resistor. My mind tends to fire on "all one cylinders" instead of "all four cylinders" sometimes.