Anode and cathode metals? (For electrolysis)

I want to seperate some water to get Hydrogen to play with, so I made a little electrolysis device with a 12v power supply. The only problem is that I have no idea what to use as the anode and cathode! Could I just use screws? Or pennies or something?

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guyfrom7up7 years ago
out of common materials, I think alluminum is the best

Do not EAT or DRINK any of that. You will make horrible heavy metal exposure into the water as it degrades the metal into sharp, cancerous, stomach ripping metals over time

which anode and cathod will make highest amount of oxygen and hydrogen i dont care about the cost tell me the best output material for hydrogen and oxygen production

No, actually Alluminium corrodes so fast you won't believe it...

Login258 (author)  guyfrom7up7 years ago
So it doesn't really matter? I figures since stainless steel resists oxidizing (right?), then fewer oxygen bubbles would form and I'd get more hydrogen... Any idea? I'll try out aluminium and let you know how it works!
well, you get the same amount of hydrogen and oxygen, it's just stuff like iron and steel (not sure about stainless steel) will oxidize (rust/corode) really quickly, alluminum still will, just not as fast.
Toga_Dan4 months ago

Some humidifiers pass 120v directly through the water. With AC, it apparently produces steam rather than H and O. The electrodes are carbon. In my experience trying to split water, low voltage is needed to prevent the _metal_ electrode from rapidly corroding. Corrosion seems to insulate the electrode. Carbon doesn't have this issue at higher V.

For making H and O nothing beats surface area and a constant flow to flush the forming bubbles away.
But for electroplating, anodizing and such I have to say that nothing beats the right mix of medium and electrode material.
For example copper plating with a steel donor electrode in copper sulphate solution works but the result is bad and the mix useless after this.
Platinum or titanium work much better here but still copper as the donor is best for obvious reasons.
From my experience AC is not working properly in a home setup for plating works.
However using a pulsed DC at higher voltages seems to indicate that a much better control over the process is possible.
Smaller bubbles form and I am quite sure there will be a sweet spot of voltage, current and frequency that would prevent bubbles completely.
Especially with copper I find that that a pulsed DC gives a much better surface finnish as it does look less dull.
In any case contamination is the worst to happen but the right PH level is importent too.
Try some copper plating at different PH levels and leave all other parameters the same ;)

Toga_Dan4 months ago

I recently did some electroPLATING. Zinc on steel, copper on steel, an _attempt_ at zinc or copper on graphite (on paper) . An _attempt_ at plating copper directly onto a pencil lead... the most BUBBLES appeared on the pencil lead.

DarthV26 months ago

I've seen graphite and platinum been recommended as they wont be corroded (?), but any conductive metal will work. Mix bi-carb with the water to make it conductive, and you only need 1.23 V for electrolysis, a higher voltage with just generate more heat; more amps is what you need to create more bubbles.

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