DIY Stage lighting - need help (pics)

I play in a three piece sludge metal band and I am in the process of making some portable footswitchable stage lighting.  I want it to be safe and convenient, however I'm not toooo knowledgable when it comes to electrical wiring/ideal parts for ideal application, etc...
Below are two images of my plans so far, but I could reeeeeally use some help in the issues/questions addressed in the images.  If anyone can shed some light (no pun intended) on this I would greatly appreciate it.  Please be as specific as possible.
ISSUES/QUESTIONS?
Portable footswitchable Stage Lighting for my band.
I think we will be using 65-100watt incandescent lights.
4 momentary white lights (2 per side)
+ 4 on/off white lights (2 per side)
+ 2 color lights (1 per side).
I DO NOT WANT TO ELECTRICUTE MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE.
I WANT THESE LIGHTS TO BE BRIGHT AND EFFECTIVE.
CONVENIENT WIRING/CORDS WOULD BE IDEAL.
- What wire to be used to connect couple labeled sockets?
(two momentary, two on/off in each side box. both sides
triggered at same time)
- How do I wire the labeled sockets?
Are they connected just like how it’s drawn?
- Can those footswitches be used with this set up/light sockets?Or do I need a different type/rated footswitch to do this?

- How can I connect and disconnect (for transport) RIGHT BOX to LEFT BOX and power both sides to one footswitch?

ALL help and advice is greatly appreciated.  Thank you.

Picture of DIY Stage lighting - need help (pics)
BURROWS lightbox of doooooom 09-14-12 (2of2).jpg
Raybz4 years ago
I know this is old, however to avoid injury I would use a 12vdc powersupply and run that power to the foot switches, then use relays to switch the 120vac to the lights. You'll have less stage noise and a much safer configuration
I take it you want this mobile so you can move it from gig to gig.

For the power cords I would use three wire heavy duty extension cords.

I don’t like the light sockets the connections are exposed; I would go with a light socket that connects to a metal box you can ground each box and the connections are covered.

Ground wire is green,

Live wire is white,

Neutral wire is black,

On the light socket you can see a silver screw connect the white wire to the silver screw.

On the light socket there is a brass screw connect the black wire to the brass screw.

With boxes there is a screw on the back of the box it is sometimes green that is for the green wire (Ground Wire).

Make sure all the boxes are connected to the ground wire.

Use shielded #14 wire from box to box, shielded wire needs a little plastic guard to keep the shield from cutting the insolation off the wire at the ends. Hold the wire to the box with a wire holder some boxes come with wire built in holders.

In the #14 shielded wire you will find a black wire (neutral), a white wire (live), and a green or bare copper wire, or a bare flat metal strip, (ground wire)

Light sockets are built so only one wire will fit on the screw you will need T connectors or Marrets to make the connections in the box if you are connecting more than one light to a cord. The exact connector is dependent in your country of origin.

Do not use crimpons except on the stranded power cord wires, soldering the stranded ends is better.

I hope this helps.

Joe
redvandan4 years ago
if this is how you would like to control them the easiest way to link the two is to label the boxes 1 & 2. In box 1 take your power cord from the foot switch and install a male receptacle on one side and a female receptacle on the other. Inside the box you will wire from the male to the light from the light to the female. Then on box 2 you just need the male plug in on the box to the light. And basic extension cords to connect between them.