Does anyone make their own silicone molds? I have questions for you

I was looking for a rectangle silicone mold to use for cold processed soap. I saw several that were called "soap mold liners". They were used to line or fit inside wooden soap molds. Right now if a soap maker uses a wooden mold, a lot of time is spent lining the mold with plastic wrap, or freezer paper......usually with less than stellar results. Silicone seems to be the answer. When I finally tracked down the silicone liners, I also found out that this company is no longer in business.......

My DH made me a wonderful mold out of a large thick plastic (HDPE) cutting board, BUT while the soap doesn't leak out, or react to the plastic, it IS difficult to get the soap to "let go" of the plastic, so I end up lining it just to simplify the process. I would like to make my own liner from silicone IF I could get some direction form someone in the know. I have seen directions on the internet, but I think those are mainly ads to sell their product.

My questions
What silicone (brand) is best for a first timer?
which release agent (brand)?
could I use the actual HDPE soap mold as the outside of the mold without the silicone or release agent hurting it?
can wood be used as the "mold" to create the cavity? Doe the wood have to be treated?
where would I find these products
Any other "suggestions" or advice?


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first time casting using the homemade silicone putty. If i want to cast my mold from a wood carving made in balsa wood, can i coat it with wood glue and use that as a surface that will help the mold come off easier after drying?


It looks like it is already heavily coated in some areas.
Thin the glue a little bit and apply with a brush for the fist coat.

Let dry completely, usually wood glue turns clear when dry.
If you still have holes in the surface or very uneven bits you can apply another coat.
A spray with bees wax should also work just fine.

ok thank you i will give it a try. Are there any ither tips that would help me do this correctly?

Your only problem is to get the moulding material liquid enough so it fills everything correctly.

If you don't want to make something permanent to keep the mould in shape during curing use putty - you know the cheap stuff our kids love to play with...

thank you for the help :)

You welcome, let us know how it worked out.

the mold got caught on some uneven carves and messed it up but i am using my dremel with a diamond tip bit for smooth sufaces so test number two should work better. I will post pictures soon with v2

Goodhart5 years ago
This is coming from one that hasn't any experience in what you do, but a thought came to me, and I figured I would ask.

As far as "releasing" the soap, would a very light coating of oil (say from the cooking spray cans used for pans) help? Or do you think that would be detrimental to the soap itself?
MaryT8M (author)  Goodhart5 years ago
actually any cooking oil type coating would only make it worse. That oil would just become part of the saponification reaction.....becoming soap as well. I have used petrolium jelly which is NOT a fat, but it's m-e-s-s-y, and can be blotchy
Yes, you are right, and I had forgotten that (not that I've made soap, but I have read about the process).

Question: would a thick Saran Wrap type to line it work?

One of the reasons things stick is because of "pits" in the material that the fluid flows into and then congeals. Even some of the silicons and polymers would have some of that. BUT if you can find one that dries VERY "glass-like" with very little or no roughness on the surface, that as a coating may work pretty well.
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