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New car sub, does this work?

My cousin was nice enough to give me this nice little 200 watt 12 inch sub. It just needs some minor repair, theres a little puncture hole in the dust cap, simple fix. I tried hooking it up directly to my stereo and using the eq to filter out all the freq and still wasn't too happy. I took the amp out of my mirage sub and wired it all up to this one, the amp is only 75 watt rated, well I could be wrong, all I know was that the sub was 75 watt. But it works great, tell me if this is a good idea guys, lookin for opinions. Also too, is it normal that the heat sinks on the amp should be "energized"??? I picked it up by the heat sinks while it was plugged in before I had the sub and dropped it rather quickly, althought it seems to have loosened the joints up in my hand. Also too, does anyone know what brand of sub it is? All it says on the front and magnet is VR with a 12 in between (12 inch). I wanna find some specs for it as I'm not sure if the box it's in is tuned for it and I'm thinking about porting it or would that make it overdrive if it was ment to be in a sealed box?

Picture of New car sub, does this work?
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germanboy9 years ago
If you meant the heatsinks have a voltage on them by "energised", then no they shouldn't, you may have a grounding issue somewhere. Remember when matching speakers and amps that you must pay attention to their impeadance, and also remember that the wattage of a speeaker can be rated either in PMPO or RMS. Should help ya not blow your sub :)
. As LV said, it's not uncommon for heat sinks to be "hot." You don't notice it with 5V and 12V systems, but it can be quite a surprise at higher voltages. . But that doesn't mean there is not a grounding problem, just that a "hot" heat sink is not necessarily an indicator of such.
Ah I see, I call "hot" live, just to aviod the confusion between heat and potential difference, which is the trap I fell into there, lol. I wasnt aware of heat sinks running live though, but I am more than likely wrong :D
. Yeah. It is kinda confusing. I was hoping the quotes would help. . . I'd been putting mica insulators between voltage regulators/etc and chassis (chassi?)/heatsinks for years before I REALLY learned why the mica was necessary. Someone hadn't replaced the insulator when changing the component on a previous job so the heatsink was hot/live. :) Luckily, I wasn't grounded very well at the time.
Punkguyta (author)  germanboy9 years ago
They're both in rms according to the back of the sub and the specifications for the actual amp/origional sub on the site. And they're both 8 omhs, it won't drive any less.
LasVegas9 years ago
Yes. It's very possible that heatsinks can be "hot." Actually it's quite common. There's no way to tell what brand of subwoofer that is. The picture is just too blurry.
Punkguyta (author)  LasVegas9 years ago
It wasn't hot, I had just plugged it in, I meant that I had a few hundred volts run through my hand.
That's what the term hot means. You're dealing with an isolated circuit with very high voltages. Many components may well have high voltage on the heatsinks. Unless the heatsink is grounded (attached to the chassis), you should treat them as dangerous and don't touch them when the unit is powered.
Punkguyta (author)  LasVegas9 years ago
Alright, thanks, I was getting a little worried thinking that I might blow another sub with this damn amp. I'm gonna cut a hole in the back, well make the one that's there a little bigger, and drop the amp in there. Also, I was wondering if it would hurt to port the box? What if I used the port off the old sub?
I don't really understand what you're asking... That sub appears to be taking its sub signals off of the left and right speaker channels. If your amp has a sub output port, you would have to put it through a preamp first before feeding it into either channel since a sub channel is line level.
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