Rebuilding NordicTrack ski machine drive rollers
I know NordicTrack ski machines have largely been replaced by elliptical machines, but the ski machines are still very good for a great upper and lower body exercise regimen. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers.
NordicTrack makes strong mention of the patented flywheel and drive rollers invented by a mechanical engineer whose hobby was cross country skiing. When the drive rollers do wear out, the owner can order new rollers for $65 to $95 (depending on the vendor), or he can send his old rollers to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33. But, what I finally figured out today is that the mysterious one-way clutch is actually a very common item you can order from Amazon or probably pick up locally at a shop that sells bearings of all kinds. The name for the one-way clutches is a one-way needle bearing.
The photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two appear to be bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is almost certainly a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics.
I have not taken my NordicTrack ski machine apart, yet. It still works fine. But, when one or both skis slip and no longer make the flywheel turn, I will look seriously at rebuilding my own rollers. I already know the shaft is 5/8 inch in diameter. A common size of one-way needle bearing is 5/8 ID x 7/8 OD, which I suspect is what is used in a NordicTrack drive roller. There appears to be a bronze sleeve bearing on each side of the one-way needle bearing. A socket the right external diameter from a wrench set would make a good tool for driving out the old bearing and driving in the new bearing. It looks like I would need to remove both sides of the NordicTrack ski machine frame, but that is not hard.
The one big advantage to rebuilding the drive rollers myself would be turn around time. Sending the drive rollers away for rebuilding means a one week turn around. If I acted quickly, I could have the new clutch bearings replaced in a day or two. (If and when the drive rollers fail in my NordicTrack, I will make an Instructable.) If I did the rebuilding myself, I would save a few dollars, but not many. That would depend on where I got the replacement one-way needle bearings and how much I paid for them. The drive rollers are supposed to be good for five to ten years of continuous use.
NordicTrack makes strong mention of the patented flywheel and drive rollers invented by a mechanical engineer whose hobby was cross country skiing. When the drive rollers do wear out, the owner can order new rollers for $65 to $95 (depending on the vendor), or he can send his old rollers to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33. But, what I finally figured out today is that the mysterious one-way clutch is actually a very common item you can order from Amazon or probably pick up locally at a shop that sells bearings of all kinds. The name for the one-way clutches is a one-way needle bearing.
The photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two appear to be bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is almost certainly a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics.
I have not taken my NordicTrack ski machine apart, yet. It still works fine. But, when one or both skis slip and no longer make the flywheel turn, I will look seriously at rebuilding my own rollers. I already know the shaft is 5/8 inch in diameter. A common size of one-way needle bearing is 5/8 ID x 7/8 OD, which I suspect is what is used in a NordicTrack drive roller. There appears to be a bronze sleeve bearing on each side of the one-way needle bearing. A socket the right external diameter from a wrench set would make a good tool for driving out the old bearing and driving in the new bearing. It looks like I would need to remove both sides of the NordicTrack ski machine frame, but that is not hard.
The one big advantage to rebuilding the drive rollers myself would be turn around time. Sending the drive rollers away for rebuilding means a one week turn around. If I acted quickly, I could have the new clutch bearings replaced in a day or two. (If and when the drive rollers fail in my NordicTrack, I will make an Instructable.) If I did the rebuilding myself, I would save a few dollars, but not many. That would depend on where I got the replacement one-way needle bearings and how much I paid for them. The drive rollers are supposed to be good for five to ten years of continuous use.
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Phil, this is awesome -- and your wonderfully DaVinci-esque drawing makes it complete :-) Please, oh please, find a way to make an I'ble out of this! Even if you have to borrow someone else's pictures of the machine :-)
Kelsey,
The DaVinci drawing is actually a photo I made of the factory manual's back cover. I cannot claim credit for the artwork, but it does have a DaVinci quality. I am torn between the time-honored principle, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." and a desire to open it up to see what is inside. There is the possibility that k24tea may repair his worn rollers and do an Instructable simultaneously. My machine is still working fine, and I am reticent to disturb it. Thank you for looking and for commenting.
The DaVinci drawing is actually a photo I made of the factory manual's back cover. I cannot claim credit for the artwork, but it does have a DaVinci quality. I am torn between the time-honored principle, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." and a desire to open it up to see what is inside. There is the possibility that k24tea may repair his worn rollers and do an Instructable simultaneously. My machine is still working fine, and I am reticent to disturb it. Thank you for looking and for commenting.
Really? ....I should have read all the details; you actually said that. Still, it's a much nicer picture than I would normally expect from an owner's manual :-)
I completely understand not wanting to open up something that is working properly. I've broken more than one item (including the first of my daughter's crib aquaria!) by doing that.
I completely understand not wanting to open up something that is working properly. I've broken more than one item (including the first of my daughter's crib aquaria!) by doing that.
Here are the full front and back of the manual for your enjoyment. I tried to eliminate glare, but got some anyway.
May 22, 2012. 10:37 AMk24tea
says:
THANK YOU for posting this information! I hope you'll make an Instructable for this. Meanwhile, I'd really like to try it now. The drive roller clutches have failed on my Nordic Track ski machine, and I would love to know how to rebuild them myself.
I can remove the drive rollers, but I don't know anything about one-way needle bearings. I'm handy with small tools and parts, so if you can please give me any further info on what to get and how to rebuild the clutches, I'm pretty sure I can do it. I agree, it may cost about the same to ship them off to Nordic Track Guy for rebuild, but the lost time on my beloved Nordic Track is priceless! Thank you for any assistance you can offer. kt
I can remove the drive rollers, but I don't know anything about one-way needle bearings. I'm handy with small tools and parts, so if you can please give me any further info on what to get and how to rebuild the clutches, I'm pretty sure I can do it. I agree, it may cost about the same to ship them off to Nordic Track Guy for rebuild, but the lost time on my beloved Nordic Track is priceless! Thank you for any assistance you can offer. kt
Thank you for looking at this and for your comment. We bought a used ski machine of about 1991 vintage. I looked closely at the drawing on the back of the manual. I did some searching on the 'Net about one-way clutches and found one-way needle bearings. That is the technical name for them. There are videos at YouTube in which adolescents involved with gasoline powered remote control race cars like a person buys at a hobby shop were replacing a one-way needle bearing on the starter. It takes the place of a Bendix in an automobile starter. It allows the starter to grab when it is revved up, but allows the shaft to turn freely when the starter shuts down. Any ball bearing shop should be able to get one-way needle bearings for you. From what I have seen on the Internet, prices run between $6 and $13 each, depending on the size. Some places have better prices than others. Grainger seemed to have very good prices. I do not know what shipping charges add to those prices. You can find their on-line catalog very easily.
The picture on the back of my NordicTrack owner's manual appears to show a bronze sleeve bearing on each side of the one-way needle bearing inside each roller. I would think the bronze sleeve bearings would slide out without too much difficulty. Then you would want a wrench socket that fits inside the roller housing without a lot of looseness, but slides smoothly. Place the roller on a couple of blocks and tap on the wrench socket to drive out the old one-way needle bearing. Drive in the new one-way needle bearing and slide the bronze rollers back into place. Do on lubricate the one-way needle bearings at all, or they will slip all of the time. Check to see which way the rubber roller should go back onto the shaft so it grabs when your foot pushes back and is free when you bring your foot forward with the ski. There is an arrow on the side of the one-way needle bearings to indicate which way they grab. Correcting a mistake should be a simple matter of sliding the rubber roller off of the flywheel shaft and rotating the roller a half turn end for end before putting it back onto the shaft.
If I were you, I would get out the Yellow Pages and find a bearing shop near where you live. Then I would call them and ask some questions. If you talked real nicely to them, they might even press the old bearing out and the new one in for you. Certainly a local machine shop would do that for a small fee.
If it goes well, you may do an Instructable on this before I do.
The picture on the back of my NordicTrack owner's manual appears to show a bronze sleeve bearing on each side of the one-way needle bearing inside each roller. I would think the bronze sleeve bearings would slide out without too much difficulty. Then you would want a wrench socket that fits inside the roller housing without a lot of looseness, but slides smoothly. Place the roller on a couple of blocks and tap on the wrench socket to drive out the old one-way needle bearing. Drive in the new one-way needle bearing and slide the bronze rollers back into place. Do on lubricate the one-way needle bearings at all, or they will slip all of the time. Check to see which way the rubber roller should go back onto the shaft so it grabs when your foot pushes back and is free when you bring your foot forward with the ski. There is an arrow on the side of the one-way needle bearings to indicate which way they grab. Correcting a mistake should be a simple matter of sliding the rubber roller off of the flywheel shaft and rotating the roller a half turn end for end before putting it back onto the shaft.
If I were you, I would get out the Yellow Pages and find a bearing shop near where you live. Then I would call them and ask some questions. If you talked real nicely to them, they might even press the old bearing out and the new one in for you. Certainly a local machine shop would do that for a small fee.
If it goes well, you may do an Instructable on this before I do.
May 22, 2012. 6:00 PMk24tea
says:
Hi Phil,
Wow! Thanks so much for this very helpful information and advice! I'll try to dig up my Nordic Track manual (haven't seen it for 20 years) and look for the drawings you describe., or I think I saw the manual available for download. There are a couple of places around here that might be able to help me get the bearings I need and maybe press them out/in for me or else show me how to do it. If I can find the right size bearings and can replace the old ones successfully, I'll send you an update with part numbers. Otherwise, you're right, the Nordic Track Guy can rebuild the drive rollers for me, but so much more rewarding to learn how to do it myself. Armed with the excellent instructions and advice you've provided, I think I can do it! If I do an Instructable on this, I'll be sure to credit you and link to your posting as the original contributor. Thanks again! kt
Wow! Thanks so much for this very helpful information and advice! I'll try to dig up my Nordic Track manual (haven't seen it for 20 years) and look for the drawings you describe., or I think I saw the manual available for download. There are a couple of places around here that might be able to help me get the bearings I need and maybe press them out/in for me or else show me how to do it. If I can find the right size bearings and can replace the old ones successfully, I'll send you an update with part numbers. Otherwise, you're right, the Nordic Track Guy can rebuild the drive rollers for me, but so much more rewarding to learn how to do it myself. Armed with the excellent instructions and advice you've provided, I think I can do it! If I do an Instructable on this, I'll be sure to credit you and link to your posting as the original contributor. Thanks again! kt
You have me wanting to dismantle my perfectly functional NordicTrack just to make sure I am not making an unwarranted assumption and giving you false information. If I do that I could take photos and make an Instructable fairly quickly, unless I ran into something that proved to be much more difficult than expected.
The manual that came with our used machine is nearly identical to those you download on-line, except that they do not have the cover with some artistically done cutaway drawings. One of those drawings showed a drive roller with about a quarter of the cylindrical shape removed to reveal three parts inside the core of the roller. The center one looks very much like a roller bearing, but would be a one-way needle bearing. The other two flanking it on each side are smooth and are likely oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings.
I enjoy our NordicTrack, but must confess it has been very easy for me to get stopped from regular use after building up to a respectable number of minutes on it each week. I am looking forward to retirement soon when the demands of work will not leave me a fatigued during busy seasons and I can be regular with my exercise plans.
The manual that came with our used machine is nearly identical to those you download on-line, except that they do not have the cover with some artistically done cutaway drawings. One of those drawings showed a drive roller with about a quarter of the cylindrical shape removed to reveal three parts inside the core of the roller. The center one looks very much like a roller bearing, but would be a one-way needle bearing. The other two flanking it on each side are smooth and are likely oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings.
I enjoy our NordicTrack, but must confess it has been very easy for me to get stopped from regular use after building up to a respectable number of minutes on it each week. I am looking forward to retirement soon when the demands of work will not leave me a fatigued during busy seasons and I can be regular with my exercise plans.
May 23, 2012. 6:42 AMk24tea
says:
Thanks, Phil, the drawing helps a lot. I'm tempted to take a drive roller apart now, just to see how it works, and then if I can't find the parts or mess it up somehow I can still send them out to NordicTrackGuy to rebuild. But your description and instructions are so good that I'm confident I can do it (famous last words). And I'll learn something new, so it's all good.
Maybe after you retire from your current job, you can make more Instructables and/or teach your skills to folks like me who just "need to know" how things work. You clearly have a knack for describing and explaining.
I hope you'll find time soon to use your Nordic Track again. I know what you mean about fatigue during busy times, and sometimes it's hard to find time and energy for anything besides work. I've used mine pretty regularly for about 20 years, and I find that a NT workout with my favorite oldies music actually increases my energy and elevates my mood for the rest of the day. My plan is to stay strong so I can have the energy to do what I want to do! Thanks again, Phil, for helping me stay "on track".
Maybe after you retire from your current job, you can make more Instructables and/or teach your skills to folks like me who just "need to know" how things work. You clearly have a knack for describing and explaining.
I hope you'll find time soon to use your Nordic Track again. I know what you mean about fatigue during busy times, and sometimes it's hard to find time and energy for anything besides work. I've used mine pretty regularly for about 20 years, and I find that a NT workout with my favorite oldies music actually increases my energy and elevates my mood for the rest of the day. My plan is to stay strong so I can have the energy to do what I want to do! Thanks again, Phil, for helping me stay "on track".
Thanks. I am sure the one-way needle bearing clutch will have a pressed fit that requires pressure to drive it out. I cannot say for certain about the bronze sleeve bearings on both sides of it. I would think they only slip in and out without a pressed fit, but I could easily be wrong. They may require being pressed in and out, too.
My wife was the one who wanted a NordicTrack. Now she does not use it, but I do. A few weeks ago I was using it regularly and was up to about 20 minutes a day most days a week. About that time I had to change the oil in my car. That means a lot of getting up and down on the garage floor. I was surprised at how my time on the NordicTrack made getting up and down so much easier that my increased strength made me feel like I was a good 20 years younger. A little NordicTrack time makes me want more.
NordicTrack ski machines vary a little. Ours was the most basic model at the time it was made. I have made little modifications. I did an Instructable on adding removable wheels so I can easily move it from one part of the house to another, even up and down steps. I also welded on some guides for the arm cord so the cord cannot so easily wrap over itself and make a snapping noise when the drum is turning back and forth. I have not documented that, yet. I also made a tray to go on the arm with the abdomen cushion so I can rest a CD disc player on it, but I have not documented that, either. Some of the higher grade NordicTrack units already come with solutions to those problems.
My wife was the one who wanted a NordicTrack. Now she does not use it, but I do. A few weeks ago I was using it regularly and was up to about 20 minutes a day most days a week. About that time I had to change the oil in my car. That means a lot of getting up and down on the garage floor. I was surprised at how my time on the NordicTrack made getting up and down so much easier that my increased strength made me feel like I was a good 20 years younger. A little NordicTrack time makes me want more.
NordicTrack ski machines vary a little. Ours was the most basic model at the time it was made. I have made little modifications. I did an Instructable on adding removable wheels so I can easily move it from one part of the house to another, even up and down steps. I also welded on some guides for the arm cord so the cord cannot so easily wrap over itself and make a snapping noise when the drum is turning back and forth. I have not documented that, yet. I also made a tray to go on the arm with the abdomen cushion so I can rest a CD disc player on it, but I have not documented that, either. Some of the higher grade NordicTrack units already come with solutions to those problems.
May 23, 2012. 3:58 PMk24tea
says:
Thanks, Phil. I think I need to take my drive rollers out now, just to see inside them! An interesting rainy-day project, and if I can't repair them after all, then they will be sent on their way to the Nordic Track Guy. I've learned about one-way needle bearings, I'll get a little hands-on experience with something I've never seen before, and my machine will get fixed either way.
I saw your Instructable the other day for adding the wheels, and I thought it was a really good modification. The little wheels they come with are only good for shifting them a short distance. I can't imagine moving my Nordic Track up and down stairs more than once a year, or preferably less!
I'd like to see how you did your arm cord guides. The arm cord on mine snaps and flays about, and it sometimes flips over the top and needs to be re-wrapped around the drum, so I need to make something to keep it in place. I don't have your welding skills or equipment, so I'll probably make some guides with sturdy wire instead. Or my arm cord may just need replacing after 20 years of use. I read somewhere that a new cord is stiff, and mine is quite flexible, almost like a jump-rope. I've only done minimal maintenance on my Nordic Track until now, so it's probably time to replace a few parts to keep it going strong.
Over the years I've added just a few little conveniences. First thing, I mounted a small fan on top of the post. A long time ago I bought a combination book/music player/water bottle holder that mounted on top of the upright post, but it was brittle plastic and broke apart, so now I'm working on a little metal rack for mp3 player and water bottle to hang on the back of the hip pad. Sometimes making things for my "toys" is as much fun as the toys themselves!
I know what you mean about how good it feels to be in shape just to do ordinary activities more easily. I keep going on my Nordic Track in the hope that I'll keep my strength and mobility as I age. It's easy on creaky joints but still gives a great workout even when I'm not good for doing much else that day. I've tried several different ellipticals and treadmills, but I find my Nordic Track works just as well and is much kinder to my knees and hips.
Something I've found out about the various models is that most of the differences aren't terribly important to the practical functioning of the machine. There are different woods, and some are composites instead, and some have adjustable front legs for incline skiing. Some come with electronic pulse monitors and timer/calorie/distance meters. Some have a cable and turn-knob for adjusting leg tension instead of a simpler sliding lever connected directly to the spring and strap. Thus, some require different replacement parts than others. But all the original (pre-1999, US made) ones seem to be essentially the same as far as practical function and durability. I have the Achiever model; my sister has the Excel, and a friend has the Sequoia. They look a little different and the leg tension adjustment methods vary, but I can't feel any difference when I use one or the other of them. I think the most basic model is just as good and durable as the fancier high-end ones, and probably is easier to maintain and repair. No matter which model you have, you've got a great exercise machine!
So here's to you, Phil, for your excellent advice and instructions. I'll be reading your other Instructables, too. Stay motivated, and keep on Tracking! kt
I saw your Instructable the other day for adding the wheels, and I thought it was a really good modification. The little wheels they come with are only good for shifting them a short distance. I can't imagine moving my Nordic Track up and down stairs more than once a year, or preferably less!
I'd like to see how you did your arm cord guides. The arm cord on mine snaps and flays about, and it sometimes flips over the top and needs to be re-wrapped around the drum, so I need to make something to keep it in place. I don't have your welding skills or equipment, so I'll probably make some guides with sturdy wire instead. Or my arm cord may just need replacing after 20 years of use. I read somewhere that a new cord is stiff, and mine is quite flexible, almost like a jump-rope. I've only done minimal maintenance on my Nordic Track until now, so it's probably time to replace a few parts to keep it going strong.
Over the years I've added just a few little conveniences. First thing, I mounted a small fan on top of the post. A long time ago I bought a combination book/music player/water bottle holder that mounted on top of the upright post, but it was brittle plastic and broke apart, so now I'm working on a little metal rack for mp3 player and water bottle to hang on the back of the hip pad. Sometimes making things for my "toys" is as much fun as the toys themselves!
I know what you mean about how good it feels to be in shape just to do ordinary activities more easily. I keep going on my Nordic Track in the hope that I'll keep my strength and mobility as I age. It's easy on creaky joints but still gives a great workout even when I'm not good for doing much else that day. I've tried several different ellipticals and treadmills, but I find my Nordic Track works just as well and is much kinder to my knees and hips.
Something I've found out about the various models is that most of the differences aren't terribly important to the practical functioning of the machine. There are different woods, and some are composites instead, and some have adjustable front legs for incline skiing. Some come with electronic pulse monitors and timer/calorie/distance meters. Some have a cable and turn-knob for adjusting leg tension instead of a simpler sliding lever connected directly to the spring and strap. Thus, some require different replacement parts than others. But all the original (pre-1999, US made) ones seem to be essentially the same as far as practical function and durability. I have the Achiever model; my sister has the Excel, and a friend has the Sequoia. They look a little different and the leg tension adjustment methods vary, but I can't feel any difference when I use one or the other of them. I think the most basic model is just as good and durable as the fancier high-end ones, and probably is easier to maintain and repair. No matter which model you have, you've got a great exercise machine!
So here's to you, Phil, for your excellent advice and instructions. I'll be reading your other Instructables, too. Stay motivated, and keep on Tracking! kt
Our NordicTrack does not have even the rollers on the rear end of some models. Going up and down stairs using the wheels I put onto ours is fairly easy.
Attached is a photo of how I did the arm cord guides. The black guard was already in place. Some models have different ways of routing the cord near the drum, including rollers. I bent some 1/4 inch steel rod and welded two pieces in place. I noticed the left cord tends to wrap around the bottom half of the drum while the right side wraps around the upper half. I expect the rubbing of the cord on even smooth steel may accelerate wear, but I have not noticed any yet. I still need to cut the pieces of rod and grind their ends round to make them better looking.
I was at Lowe's (I assume you live in the USA.) and saw some similar cord in green or purple that was only slightly smaller in diameter. I will use it when I need to replace my cord.
I have long thought the working parts of the different models are too similar for further comment. As for elevating the front end I have always thought I could just slip a 2 x 4 or two under the front feet when I am ready.
I would be interested in seeing photos of your modifications.
I am now 66. Regular exercise helps keep a person from waking at weird hours during the night. The human body produces less essential hormones with age, too. Exercise helps with that, too.
Thanks for your comments.
Attached is a photo of how I did the arm cord guides. The black guard was already in place. Some models have different ways of routing the cord near the drum, including rollers. I bent some 1/4 inch steel rod and welded two pieces in place. I noticed the left cord tends to wrap around the bottom half of the drum while the right side wraps around the upper half. I expect the rubbing of the cord on even smooth steel may accelerate wear, but I have not noticed any yet. I still need to cut the pieces of rod and grind their ends round to make them better looking.
I was at Lowe's (I assume you live in the USA.) and saw some similar cord in green or purple that was only slightly smaller in diameter. I will use it when I need to replace my cord.
I have long thought the working parts of the different models are too similar for further comment. As for elevating the front end I have always thought I could just slip a 2 x 4 or two under the front feet when I am ready.
I would be interested in seeing photos of your modifications.
I am now 66. Regular exercise helps keep a person from waking at weird hours during the night. The human body produces less essential hormones with age, too. Exercise helps with that, too.
Thanks for your comments.
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