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Voltage Regulator

EDIT: Anyone Interested please check below posts, this is one is obsolete

Hello!

I need a voltage smoother and regulator on my circuit(attached below)it is a modified shunt charge controller circuit.It converts the Tri phase alternating current to DC and feeds it into the circuit.

The regulator will have to be attachable to the BATTERIES wire in the circuit.It should not consume more than 1v power on its own.My Vout to the battery currently is fluctuating.I will need the to be a stable 12v to charge the batteries. A potentiometer will have to adjust current.I will calibrate current according to my battery bank needs.

Led 1 indicates 'charging' Led 2 indicates 'Dump'

And Please forgive my circuit diagram design(it looks like crap)but works like gold.Also do NOT suggest huge changes to my controller for the regulator to work. Small suggestions to make it more effective,useful like change the zener diode power rating will be welcome.

P.S- Its for my hydro project.Check it out at https://www.instructables.com/community/Help-Hydro-power/

Kabir

Picture of Voltage Regulator
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A potentioneter is NOT something that will adjust the current going to your batteries! It will fry in a second.
What you need is something like this:
http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2007/9/3/18347/60207
The kit is cheap. I won't say you have to buy it. But Glen (the builder/seller) is a wonderful man.
Weatherproof boxes - Tupperware bowls - those have the rubber grommet already in place. But avoid exposure to direct sun, it will suffer from long-term exposure to UV.
mhkabir (author)  claudiopolis7 years ago
What potentiometer????Did I mention about a potentiometer anywhere????But thanks on the tip about the tupperware bowls!!
Yes, you did, in the second paragraph:

The regulator will have to be attachable to the BATTERIES wire in the circuit.It should not consume more than 1v power on its own.My Vout to the battery currently is fluctuating.I will need the to be a stable 12v to charge the batteries. A potentiometer will have to adjust current.I will calibrate current according to my battery bank needs.

:-)
mhkabir (author)  Goodhart7 years ago
Helooooo! Did you read the post from top to bottom?? There is an 'EDIT' in bold, And also , I said that a potentiometer wil have to adjust the CURRENT not VOLTAGE. I.E: current for different sized batteries are different(I might want to change my batteries!!)700 aH or 500 aH wihich is Amp-Hours
Sorry, was just replying to your statement where your wrote:

Did I mention about a potentiometer anywhere????

And the simple answer was yes. I meant no offense.
mhkabir (author)  Goodhart7 years ago
Thats OK ,no feelings hurt
mhkabir (author) 7 years ago
Hello all I had known that a rectifier would be needed.And I dont think that the shunt would be needed much, Always there will be loads on my six battery battery bank,I have just kept it for max safety.Also I dont want to get any stuff online.Still nothing is there in the 'samples 'part of their website :P :P And I will further mod the controller to make the external dummy loads option avalible.I will also incude a brake in the design of the controller.A SP3T switch will short ther neutral and hot leads together, braking the turbine, while I shut off the valve an open the divert valve.But could you tell me how to make a semi weather-water proof box for the controller? Please dont post if you want me to BUY it. I prefer no welding involved, I will use superglue to seal the ends of the box. Thanks for your quick response! Kabir
gmoon mhkabir7 years ago
Silicon sealant is probably preferable over superglue--its both waterproof and flexible. If you can't find something with an O-ring seal (old ammo box?), maybe a box-within-a-box would be sufficiently water-resistant? If not, I'm sure someone here will have a good idea...
mhkabir (author)  gmoon7 years ago
I would like something like shown on this page: http://www.otherpower.com/scotthydro1.html
The box is attached to the alernators stator.(scroll to the bottom of the page)
gmoon mhkabir7 years ago
Probably the charge controller should be as close to the batteries as possible, and that the wiring into the hostel (where I assume your batteries are) should be the AC feed from the alternator. There's a lot more current loss with DC wiring vs. AC, even in just 25 meters. It's simpler, too. Less complexity in the plant is good; less likely to fail. Wouldn't a small shed or at least a large wooden enclosure over the alternator / turbine, etc. be best? That way there's less danger of accidental shocks, kids mucking about, etc. The box in your link is just the rectifier for the alternator (and a meter), rather than a charge controller. You might want as much of the hydro physical plant to be welded steel as possible; that's gonna take the most abuse. I'm also pretty sure you'd want your alternator a bit farther from the actual water flow (unlike that link), for safety and durability...
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