brushed to brushless!

If you have been flying your RC planes a lot and have found them getting a bit boring, go brushless and get lithium polymer cells.
brushless motors are lighter and twice as powerful as brushed. lithium polymer batteries hold the most electricity to weight ratio compared to standard Nicd and Nmh. Dont believe me look at your cell phone open the battery hatch and take out battery its probably a Lithium polymer or lithium ion notice how light it is and small it is now look at the volts/ mAH pretty amazing hu? Got a laptop it probably got a lipo to.
you want to make the switch but dont know what motor, battery, ESC (ESC-electronic speed control) to get, just ask and ill give you a hand! i will need to know the motor and battery that came with the plane/ or that u are using. Are you flying glow (gas powered) and wana go electric? i can help u out their too!
Their are 2 kinds of brushless motors outrunner and inrunner whats the difference? well outrunners spin slower with more power so it acts like it has a gear box (this eliminates the need for a gear box reducing weight and noise) it also has a different design (look at pics). inrunners have a brushed appearance but their much lighter and more powerful u might need a gear box through.

update 2/20/08 new image added (not all comment boxes are working)

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I have a couple Motorolla Razors each phone has a BR50 3.7V Lithium Ion battery in them. I would like to daisy chain them together and make it into a quickly chargeable 14.4V RC battery if possible, but I can't find the amperage on the batteries anywhere. I have an Off-Road Truck I would like to throw it on, but I would like to keep it on a minimum of 3000mA. I also am unsure about the number of pins on the battery (it has four). Above the leftmost pin it has a + sign, and the right most a - sign, but I'm not sure the importance of the middle two pins. Have you ever converted similarly available batteries with any success for such use, cause I would really like to keep my outrageous RC upgrade costs to a minimum. I currently am using an old Ni-Cd 7.2V that wont hold a charge. Nice topic :}
Try this out, get seven or eight (eight is slightly over at 16V seven is slightly under at 14V) jessops AA size nimh camera batteries, it'll be cheaper than a commercial battery running about £40 altogether, buy the quick charger that they have in store and it's really fast, that mean two chargers and two four cell battery holders in series. the batteries are 2700mah.
Thanks for the suggestion. I know I would really like to keep the footprint of these things pretty small (I would really enjoy the size of the cell phone batteries), but at the very least I could run my radio on these. I'm currently running Ni-Cd AA's in my radio, but they don't charge so fast. I still think they would work alright cause of the bigger six-cell pack I'm using anyway.
i wouldnt waist money putting Lipos in a radio.
i make shooting things,spell right
I suppose the other option would be lithium AAA's which provide about 1000mah and are far smaller... I suppose its all relative, for the AA's that adds up to a ridiculous mah value, the footprint would be small enough for a larger car and if made out of two packs then wight ditribution can be played with, then again power wise your motor may not be up to shifting that weight fast..
seems like it would be a little easier to get a normal battery. it will be much simpler to just buy a battery. You mean 3000mAh (milliAmp hours) right?
Thunder Power Prices:
7.4V 2100mAh 2-Cell 49.95
11.1V 2100mAh 3-Cell 69.95
14.8V 2100mAh 4-Cell 99.95

Flight Power Prices:
7.4V 2100mAh 2-Cell 41.99
11.1V 2100mAh 3-Cell 62.99
14.8V 2100mAh 4-Cell 83.99
Largest Lipo i have is a 4250 mAh 11.1v
I meant mAh, but I'm not sure how to determine that from voltage and amperage, and am only making an uneducated guess that the Amp values are posted that way. I checked out pricegrabber.com, and they had these (BR50-OEM versions) batteries for about 5 bucks a pop. I already have two, so I figured get away cheap ($15 + Shipping) and small. I already have the phones I could use to charge them, and they do charge pretty fast.
I did some looking around tonight at some RC forums that address these very questions. It seems I really need to consider the average amount of amps I draw over a period of time (How I do that I have no clue). I can then take a factor of about 75% to 80% of efficient usage of the amp hours a battery is rated for. They also stated that an 'Amp Hour' is exactly that; how many constant Amps or in my case mA could I draw in 1 hours time. That still sounds OK to me somewhat (remember I'm pretty uneducated in the electronics arena). I figure my wires going to my speed controller & the draw of my brushed motor are the limiting factors of how much amperage I draw FROM the battery??? If I have an over-abundance of available amperage at operating Voltage Specs. then I should still be OK to use these little monsters (please/maybe)??? Considering I'm racing a truck around instead of flying, I would imagine I would 80%+ of the time be using full throttle/amp-draw. I guess my big question is would my thought process fry my motor, servos, and speed controller, radio, etc... Or am I OK?????
Kira_Koenig9 years ago
It's amazing (if not depressing) how the small stuff like foam friendly glue, servos, control rods, clevis, and all that add up quick. pretty soon moths are flying out of your wallet. :D
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