Here's a Botched together video. The fast paced part is 1 hour of work ;)
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Video - Mixing Polyester Resin
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To tackle this manufacturing problem, we will be making a "female" negative mold. Similar to how casts of fish are made. To make this mold, we first need to make a positive "male" plug.
This instructable is a guide! I'm not going to instruct you on how to make the shape - there's plenty of resources on that. Instead, I'm providing rough instructions on how to start this task.
Our mentor currently works for Lockheed Martin as a model maker. When it comes to composites, this man knows his stuff. This is my third year working on this type of project, and he has provided a wealth of information and advice. If you'll be tackling a similar scale project - find yourself someone that has the experience to guide you in the right direction.
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![[Video] Large Scale Mold Making - Part I](/image/FUB66GIFOFEZ439XRT/Video-Large-Scale-Mold-Making-Part-I.jpg)


![[Video] Mixing Polyester Resin](http://img.instructables.com/files/deriv/FO5/CP3K/WDFEZ7BGP9V/FO5CP3KWDFEZ7BGP9V.SQUARE.jpg)























I've got a digital copy of my logbook, contact information, vendors etc. etc. If you're serious about doing this, I get involved before it's your senior design project... The project is a lot of work (for the class, the competition and the actual project) ;)
I'm going to be around next year - and I'm sure as hell going to be involved again (It's just so much fun) :D Check this:
http://primitiveengineering.com/ucfhpv/
http://www.ptone.com/boatbuilding2002/page1.html
1. WindCheetah uses a U-joint steering mechanism. We're not
2. WindCheetah doesn't have an adjustable boom
3. WindCheetah has a pretty cool off axis rear axle - we're doing more traditional chain stays
4. The only company I've seen mass produce a 700c tadpole is Big Cat HPV
5. WindCheetah is glued together
6. We have never seen a cheetah in person (at least I have never) :P
7. Hell, for a short while, there was a Kevlar drive belt in the boom (someone else did this, but there is a better way to do it :P)
I don't know what you're referring to about the Gold Rush... We've never made a LWB :P Could you elaborate?
Trikes have decades of experience and technology behind them. An engineer is obligated to learn from past experiences of others and him/herself and apply these lessons to his/her design. At no point during the design process did any team member take out any measuring equipment and place it near a manufactured design. This is why the general low riding 'bent tadpole shape is in fact general. This is why a SteinTrike looks like a Cheetah looks like a Catrike looks like Sun (well, maybe not a sun :P) looks sorta like a tripendo (minus the leaning :P).
We sat down with successful vehicle designers and got lessons in vehicle dynamics, stability, angle tolerances, bump vs. brake vs. 0scrub, etc. Took in information about our rider sizes and built a vehicle around the riders. Applied all the "stuff" we've been learning as engineering students and out popped a design we couldn't manufacture. Add more research, some design tweaking and hey, the model actually works! and our shows won't hit the fairing!
As for the fairing.... That starts off as a basic foil and then is fit to the vehicle ;) To be honest, I think it somewhat resembles a super high mileage car I saw awhile back (except we need peddle space) :P
As for why tadpole? Well, lets just say some members had some rather nasty bruising because least year's SWB has twitchy steering and a steep learning curve (I finally figured out the problem -- the trail is terrible). So smack on a third wheel - stability problem solved (at leas that was the original thinking, they didn't know better at the time).
What you must understand is.... If you can reliably put down power - you're now somewhat competitive - you've taken a huge step. I've been there with a terrible design put together in a quarter of the normal time it takes. I was there milling new parts on a hotel floor making "precision" holes with a power drill and then putting it together with JB weld and pipe clamps :P
While speed is cool and all.... It won't win the whole competition ;) How many people do you know that are willing to commute to work every day in the Diablo II? I'd love it, but it's not practical.
Lastly... Don't take any of this the wrong way ;) I'm not being nasty (but re-reading this, I can see how it could be taken the wrong way). Besides, if the senior design professors even thought we were copying someone else.... Heads, genitals and fingers would be rolling - and not on an HPV :P
Your avatar looks a bit like a late model Gold Rush smoothed out into a plump Virtual Edge. And the blue plug looks a lot like Cheetah (not Windcheetah).
As for advice or critique, there's none to give. Experience seems to be the only teacher in this game and mine does not really extend to streamlined machines, except for the one time I got a test ride in something called the Baby Varna.
From your anecdotes, it's certain that the obstacles are common to HPV builders all over. For instance, I've had to pack sand into a joint repaired with epoxy to give it enought structure. My favourite quick set adhesive is a Vise Grip plier. And nothing speeds up your wheel-building skills more readily than a 2 hour deadline to finish a trio of 20-inch racing slicks.
Good luck at the races. They're hard. And that's what makes them fun.
As for the fairing in my avatar :P If I remember how it was done - it started (the model that is) as a foil and then bits were cut off and some bits were added on :)
This year, my school is hosting the event. Se we got to pick the course :) It's going to have slower speeds, but the layout is more technical. We'll need an extra helping of straw bales :P
We had two options available.
1: Spay on adhesive - dries fast, requires a few minutes (with weights) between layers to ensure a good bond
2: Resin without hardener (the hardener attacked our foam in a bad way) - dries very slow (An estimated 3-4 day cure time), all layers could be layed up at the same time
So this really saved us a lot of time. We're looking at a total of of less than 2 hours of gluing for the whole thing - including wait time between layers.
Remember, there's always a different way to go about thing ;) This was just the most convenient/time effective/cost effective for us :)
Spray glue, stack next level, add weights, wait, repeat?
In a gross anatomy sort of way - yes.
The trick is how you lay up your glass and core. I don't know the major details, but I doubt you'll need anything stronger than what we had last year - which was either E or S glass with a K-mat (a fiberglass backed scored foam) core. It was very structural. But you're best bet is to talk with someone experienced in small craft construction ;)
ASME: American Society of Mechanical Engineers
Our Team is from the University of Central Florida