Introduction: 如何在家打做黃絲帶 the Yellow Ribbon (Bilingual Update)

Picture of 如何在家打做黃絲帶 the Yellow Ribbon (Bilingual Update)

如何在家打做黃絲帶,適合有工具或無工具人士。

How to make a yellow ribbon at home, with or without professional tools.

(The suggested Price and Place in this document are based in Hong Kong.)

Step 1: 基本物料(從左至右) Basic Material:

Picture of 基本物料(從左至右) Basic Material:

黃銅片 (0.8mm,可到新填地街買碎料,像圖中這塊32x32cm的約$100,已足夠製作150個範例的絲帶)

水磨砂紙 (240,400,800,1200,1500,2000各一張,每張2-3元)

金屬片剪刀 (英國製。老式設計,切口較整齊。視乎大小,$80-$130)

小型金屬銼 (細齒,約$10)

金屬打磨膏 ($20-$25)

尖頭平嘴無齒鉗 ($30-$130,視乎產地)

膠齒平嘴鉗 (約$90,可以手指或普通平嘴鉗代替,但須小心控制力度。)

間尺及界刀 (劃直線用,可代替)

Bronze Plate (0.8mm, can look for residual material at Reclaimation Street, the one in pic abt 32cmx32cm cost $100 is enough for 150 standard ribbon)

Sanding Paper (240, 400,800,1200,1500,2000 grit, 1 each, $2-3)

Metal Snip (GILBOW/IRWIN, this classic cutter can make a cleaner cut than those new ergonomic design, $80-130 depends on size)

Small Metal Rasp (fine grit, abt $10)

Metal Polisher (Autosol or Brasso, $20-25)

Toothless slim flat nose plier ($30-130)

Nylon Jaw flat plier (90, or use an ordinary flat plier with care)

Ruler and Cutter (for marking only, use anything you can think of)

Step 2: 有的話會快數倍的工具(上至下,左至右) Optional Tool That Help a Lot (top to Bottom, Left to Right)

Picture of 有的話會快數倍的工具(上至下,左至右) Optional Tool That Help a Lot (top to Bottom, Left to Right)

保護眼鏡 (大家都應該隨身攜帶了?)

鐵鉆 (可以檯面代替)

黃膠槌 ($20-40)

金工平槌 (可用重一點的,$30-$100,視乎產地)

鋼字鑿 (德國製,數字+英文正字,1.5mm $250-$350)

雕刻磨機 ($200-$2000,各級數均可)

鑽石膏 ($60-$140,或可以拋光蠟代替)

毛毡轆 ($5-$8) 釘(或任何約2mm粗的鐵支)

縐紋膠紙

手套

Goggle

Anvil (or simply your table)

Plastic mallet (S, $20-40)

Chasing Hammer (preferablely a heavier one)

Steel Letter Punch(letter + number, 1.5mm font height $250-350)

Dremel or similar rotary tools ($200-2000)

Diamond Paste ($60-140, or use polishing wax)

Polishing bit($5-8)

Nail (3mm dia)

Masking tape

Gloves

Step 3: 這個範例的尺寸約4x2.4cm,粗約5mm。可隨個人喜好調整大小。

Picture of 這個範例的尺寸約4x2.4cm,粗約5mm。可隨個人喜好調整大小。

Our model is abt 4x2.4cm, 5mm width. You can adjust the size as you like.

Step 4: 用界刀在5.5-6mm寬的位置劃上切割線,因銅片的粗度及厚度在加工過程中均會有所損耗。

Picture of 用界刀在5.5-6mm寬的位置劃上切割線,因銅片的粗度及厚度在加工過程中均會有所損耗。

Mark a cutting line to cut a 5.5-6mm width material. Reserve extra width for the loss of sanding and polishing.

Step 5: 用金屬剪沿切割線慢慢剪出銅條,這過程要稍為用力,力不夠就手握後一點,銅片放近槓杆一點。注意剪刀每次合到約3/4就換另一下,完全合上的話會在銅片上做成顯眼的凹痕。

Picture of 用金屬剪沿切割線慢慢剪出銅條,這過程要稍為用力,力不夠就手握後一點,銅片放近槓杆一點。注意剪刀每次合到約3/4就換另一下,完全合上的話會在銅片上做成顯眼的凹痕。

Cut along the marking slowly with the snip, do not close the snip completely or you will make many obvious mark on your material.

Step 6: 出來的銅條成螺旋狀,用手或鉗慢慢將它攤平,注意邊沿銳利。銅條攤開後會水平方向彎向一邊,這不要緊。

Picture of 出來的銅條成螺旋狀,用手或鉗慢慢將它攤平,注意邊沿銳利。銅條攤開後會水平方向彎向一邊,這不要緊。

After the metal is cut, the strip of metal will curve up like a spiral, bend it with fingers or plier till it lay flat. Be careful of the sharp edges!

Step 7: 頭尾預留各1cm方便夾持和加工,剪出10-12cm一截。

Picture of 頭尾預留各1cm方便夾持和加工,剪出10-12cm一截。

Cut the strip into 10-12cm long, give yourself some buffer material for clamping and bending.

Step 8: 用銼把四邊磨得圓順。

Picture of 用銼把四邊磨得圓順。

Sand all edges with rasp till they are smooth.

Step 9: 效果圖。左為磨前,右為磨後。

Picture of 效果圖。左為磨前,右為磨後。

Before and after.

Step 10: 用手把銅條中段拗成直徑約2cm的U型,頭尾保持平直。

Picture of 用手把銅條中段拗成直徑約2cm的U型,頭尾保持平直。

Bend a 2cm width U shape from the middle of the strip and balance both ends.

Step 11: 亦可用平嘴鉗輔助,注意不斷移動,每一位置只拗很小的角度。

Picture of 亦可用平嘴鉗輔助,注意不斷移動,每一位置只拗很小的角度。

Or you can from it with the toothless plier, bend it bit by bit to adjust the angles and curves to shape your strip.

Step 12: 大致成此形狀。

Picture of 大致成此形狀。

The shape should be liked this.

Step 13: 用手或平鉗夾著U形部位,再以尖頭無齒鉗將頭尾的上端扭向內側。

Picture of 用手或平鉗夾著U形部位,再以尖頭無齒鉗將頭尾的上端扭向內側。

Holding or clamping the U area, and twist the strip’s upper side inward.

Step 14: 效果圖。

Picture of 效果圖。

To become this.

Step 15: 這時候可用手或鉗著兩端對拉成交叉,看看扭的位置與幅度對不對,再反覆拉開調整。

Picture of 這時候可用手或鉗著兩端對拉成交叉,看看扭的位置與幅度對不對,再反覆拉開調整。

Push both end together till it from like a cross, keep adjusting it till its shape is balance…

Step 16: 直至重疊的位置貼服,線條大致流暢順滑。

Picture of 直至重疊的位置貼服,線條大致流暢順滑。

...and two strips are overlapped nicely.

Step 17: 這時可把兩邊拉開,用#240砂紙把整體磨一次。銅條本身已拋光,為什麼要把它磨掉再來呢?因為隨著加工銅條一直在劑出變形,充滿了微小的凹凸和不順,在新的型狀下只有把它從頭再打磨才能做出圓潤的質感。

Picture of 這時可把兩邊拉開,用#240砂紙把整體磨一次。銅條本身已拋光,為什麼要把它磨掉再來呢?因為隨著加工銅條一直在劑出變形,充滿了微小的凹凸和不順,在新的型狀下只有把它從頭再打磨才能做出圓潤的質感。

Releases the cross again and sand the whole piece with 240 grit sand paper. All surface must be sanded over even some of the areas came polished. This is the only way to insure the shape looks smooth and natural.

Step 18: 沒有雕刻機的朋友,如果你的銅片本身已拋光,可以選擇不磨U形內則,因為這位置比較難磨,且變形較少,亦不起眼,如果磨不好比原來更花那就得不償失了(可跳至22)。

Picture of 沒有雕刻機的朋友,如果你的銅片本身已拋光,可以選擇不磨U形內則,因為這位置比較難磨,且變形較少,亦不起眼,如果磨不好比原來更花那就得不償失了(可跳至22)。

If you are not sanding with Dremel or Rotary machine, you can skip the inner side of U area, it is particularly hard to sand with bare hands, and the outcome could be better by keeping its original polish.(jump to step 22)

Step 19: 有雕刻機的朋友,現在可以開始製作砂紙轆,剪一條約2.5x15cm的砂線,如圖用縐紋膠紙一邊黏砂紙正面,跨過鐵釘,另一端黏砂紙背面。

Picture of 有雕刻機的朋友,現在可以開始製作砂紙轆,剪一條約2.5x15cm的砂線,如圖用縐紋膠紙一邊黏砂紙正面,跨過鐵釘,另一端黏砂紙背面。

If you are sanding with Dremel or Rotary machine, let’s make some sanding bit. Cut the sanding paper into 2.5x15cm, use a masking tape to join the nail and both side of sand paper.

Step 20: 然後把砂紙順時針卷起來,卷好後把砂紙下方5mm的位置用另一張縐紋膠紙包覆數圈,就可用了。用完一圈後把它撕掉就可以繼續用下層了。

Picture of 然後把砂紙順時針卷起來,卷好後把砂紙下方5mm的位置用另一張縐紋膠紙包覆數圈,就可用了。用完一圈後把它撕掉就可以繼續用下層了。

Then, turn the nail clockwise and use masking tape to hold the finished bit. After the top layer worn out, tear it away and use a new layer.

Step 21: 磨過一次,修好形狀後把兩端再次疊起來,劃好合適位置,把多餘的頭尾剪掉,用銼和砂紙磨掉綾角和披鋒。

Picture of 磨過一次,修好形狀後把兩端再次疊起來,劃好合適位置,把多餘的頭尾剪掉,用銼和砂紙磨掉綾角和披鋒。

After sanding the strip with #240 grit, the shape should be smooth. Now push it backs to a cross shape, trim both ends’ extra lengths to balance like a ribbon with snip or plier. Sand off the sharpness with rasp and sand paper.

Step 22: (不鑿字請跳至27)然後,有字鑿的話就可打上名字日期等,用的槌可以重一點。另可用BluTack固定位置。

Picture of (不鑿字請跳至27)然後,有字鑿的話就可打上名字日期等,用的槌可以重一點。另可用BluTack固定位置。

If you have letter punch, you can stamp your name or date now. Otherwise, you can jump to step 27. Heavier hammer is recommended and use blutack to hold on your piece.

Step 23: 先找一截沒用的銅片練習。打的時候最好只落槌一下,不然字粒彈起來再落就很容易出現鬼影了,槌頭夠重的話度好位置讓它輕輕掉下去就夠了,不用拉得高一高砸手指的。

Picture of 先找一截沒用的銅片練習。打的時候最好只落槌一下,不然字粒彈起來再落就很容易出現鬼影了,槌頭夠重的話度好位置讓它輕輕掉下去就夠了,不用拉得高一高砸手指的。

You should do some practice on a scrap material. If you are not familiar with these tools, take a heavier hammer and let it drop onto the punch by its own weight, this might be a better way to avoid hurting your fingers and making letter shadow on your piece.

Step 24: 圖中用的是1.5mm高的,可自行買喜歡的大小。打完後的銅片會曲起來,打的越大力曲的越多。

Picture of 圖中用的是1.5mm高的,可自行買喜歡的大小。打完後的銅片會曲起來,打的越大力曲的越多。

This shows the effect of a 1.5mm letter size, you can choose your own sizes. After punching the weight will also wrap your ribbon. So, the harder your punch, the more its wrap.

Step 25: 用黃膠槌把它槌平。

Picture of 用黃膠槌把它槌平。

Use a plastic mallet to restore the shape.

Step 26: 再調整一下造形,用#240砂紙把字附近的正反面磨順。

Picture of 再調整一下造形,用#240砂紙把字附近的正反面磨順。

After shape refinement, use #240 grit to sand smooth the letter area and its back.

Step 27: 然後是#400砂紙,左邊是用手磨,右邊是用機磨。如圖中所見,用機磨時如速度不均容易出現一片片的鱗狀紋,這時可用同級數的砂紙把它磨平順。

Picture of 然後是#400砂紙,左邊是用手磨,右邊是用機磨。如圖中所見,用機磨時如速度不均容易出現一片片的鱗狀紋,這時可用同級數的砂紙把它磨平順。

Here come the #400 grit. The piece on left is sanded by hand and the right is by Dremel. As you can see on the right one, sometimes machine created sanding pattern on the metal. Remove them by sanding with hand before proceed to the next grade.

Step 28: 跟著是#800, #1200, #1500, #2000,注意磨的時候要均勻,均勻的意思是每一條花痕都差不多粗細深淺。如果有一條花痕或紋理磨不走就要倒回上一級的砂紙再磨,否則瑕疵就會被帶到最後,拋光後更是耀眼。

Picture of 跟著是#800, #1200, #1500, #2000,注意磨的時候要均勻,均勻的意思是每一條花痕都差不多粗細深淺。如果有一條花痕或紋理磨不走就要倒回上一級的砂紙再磨,否則瑕疵就會被帶到最後,拋光後更是耀眼。

And followed by #800, #1200, #1500, #2000. You must sand the piece completely, and leave the scratches equally wide and deep. If any scratch is irremovable, go back to the previous grade, otherwise, you will find the scratch getting more and more obvious as you proceed.

Step 29: (沒有雕刻機的跳至31)有的,可用毛毡轆沾上鑽石膏磨光,鑽石膏用薄薄一層便夠,否則一開機便會飛濺出來,轉速要快一點待鑽石膏化成液態才有效果。

Picture of (沒有雕刻機的跳至31)有的,可用毛毡轆沾上鑽石膏磨光,鑽石膏用薄薄一層便夠,否則一開機便會飛濺出來,轉速要快一點待鑽石膏化成液態才有效果。

(if you polish by hand, go to step 31.) Paste a very thin layer of diamond compound on your polishing bit. When polish, use a higher speed to liquidize the compound; otherwise, it won’t work.

Step 30: 磨光後開始像首飾了。這時候不要顧著欣賞,銅沒保護的話很快會開始褪色,快點到下一步驟。

Picture of 磨光後開始像首飾了。這時候不要顧著欣賞,銅沒保護的話很快會開始褪色,快點到下一步驟。

Start getting shinny. This won’t last in air, proceed to next step.

Step 31: 不論有沒有用鑽石膏磨光,現在可用乾棉布沾上拋光膏反覆拭擦,直至你覺得它已在發熱發亮。

Picture of 不論有沒有用鑽石膏磨光,現在可用乾棉布沾上拋光膏反覆拭擦,直至你覺得它已在發熱發亮。

No matter you polished by the diamond paste or not. Now you can apply the metal polisher by a dry cloth, wipe until it can’t get shinier.

Step 32: 32. 最後,如圖把疊底的一端向上拗約5mm,然後輕輕用力把它按到另一端的底部再拉成交叉狀,運用銅本身的彈力使兩端在重疊時更為貼合。

Picture of 32. 最後,如圖把疊底的一端向上拗約5mm,然後輕輕用力把它按到另一端的底部再拉成交叉狀,運用銅本身的彈力使兩端在重疊時更為貼合。

Lastly, to make the two end join closer, first twist the bottom layer 5mm higher than the top layer(as shown in pic). Then push it just enough to slide under the top layer and make the cross. You can put a cloth in between to avoid scratching. The elasticity of material will make it form very close.

Step 33: 背部的鑿字即使打得不深,在拋光後已很清晰。

Picture of 背部的鑿字即使打得不深,在拋光後已很清晰。

Even a slight punch became very clear after polishing.

Step 34: 手工和機械打磨並排看只能看出少許差異,如再上#3000號砂紙相信兩者分別應不大。

Picture of 手工和機械打磨並排看只能看出少許差異,如再上#3000號砂紙相信兩者分別應不大。

Can’t see much difference between hand and machine polish, the different will close to none if #3000 grit is used.

Step 35: 完成圖。手工需時約2小時,機械約30-45分鐘。

Picture of 完成圖。手工需時約2小時,機械約30-45分鐘。

Completed. In 2 hours by hand, 30-45min by machine.

Comments

panda0818 (author)2014-11-21

我想做个银盒子,你会吗

鱼先生 (author)panda08182015-05-02

你要什么样的银盒子呢,有设计图吗,我会做

panda0818 (author)2014-11-21

我想做个银盒子,你会吗

lillian0706 (author)2014-11-06

beautful

nasa1985cn (author)2014-10-21

不错不错。。。。。。

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