The 01/\/atch, because... "there are 10 types of people in the world, those who read binary, and those who don't"
- a slashdot tag line.

The 01/\/atch is a binary wrist watch with an LED display. Additional features are accessible through a scrolling menu system on its 3x4 LED matrix. Current features include: voltage meter, binary counter, club mode and time display. The watch is fully programmable. Future firmware upgrades will include: stopwatch/timer, alarm, bicycle speedometer/odometer, data logging, and an advanced configuration menu.
See it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_tApl3JmmM

All the project files are in the .zip archive on this page. Schematic and PCB in Cadsoft Eagle format. Firmware in mikroBasic. The text of this instructable is included as .odt (OO.org/open text) and .pdf files. The top-layer PCB art (mirrored) is included as a .PDF ready for toner transfer or foto process. It is copied several times on a single sheet because I have to double-up on transparencies.

The 01/\/atch was inspired by the Mini Dotclock, and a subsequent conversation in the comments area:

This is also a half step towards a surface mount nixie watch I am working on. The 01/\/atch project is an introduction to surface mount components and time keeping logic without the added complexity of a nixie tube power supply. (https://www.instructables.com/ex/i/2C2A7DA625911029BC6B001143E7E506/?ALLSTEPS )

A little googling turned up this binary watch at thinkgeek: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/watches/6a17/

The 01/\/atch is based on a PIC16F913/6. This PIC was originally chosen because it had a hardware LCD driver. I thought that I could turn the LCD driver into a LED multiplexer with a few transistors. This turned out not to be the case. Its still a good choice because it has tons of programming space and very few limited I/O pins. The F913 is about $2.00 at Mouser.

PIC16F913 Details:

PIC16F916 Details (same as 913, with more program space):

PIC16F913/6 Datasheet (PDF format):

The 3d images used in this instructable were made from the Eagle Board files with Eagle3D and POV ray:

Step 1: Display

The binary display is made of 12 LEDs in a 3x4 matrix. Each column of four LEDs represents a four bit 'nibble', or half byte. Each column can display 0-15 in binary (1+2+4+8=15). Time is displayed in the three rows as hours/tens of minutes/minutes. This is not true binary, but a simplified subset that makes the watch easier to read. The thinkgeek watch, for example, uses 'truer' binary to represent minutes with a whole byte. Whichever I might prefer, the true geek would display time using the Unix epoch, in binary! ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_timestamp )

The LED multiplex is straightforward. Rows (4) connect to pins of the PIC through current limiting resistors. Only one current limiting resistor is used for each row because only one LED per row is ever lit. The LEDs are run at 20ma, using 56 ohm resistors (56ohm @ 3 volts=20ma). The LEDs could be run higher because they are multiplexed, the datasheet listed something around 40ma. I find them to be too bright at only 20ma-multiplexed.

Columns (3) are connected to ground by NPN transistors. The transistors are switched by PIC pins through 1Kohm resistors. The multiplex functions by grounding a column of LEDs through the transistor while lighting the correct LED rows for that column. This is repeated for each column in short succession, making the matrix appear to be continually lit. PIC Timer0 is drives the multiplex. It counts to 256 then changes row values and the grounded column.

NPN Transistor, NPN/ 32V/ 100mA, (Mouser #512-BCW60D $0.05).
designing mine with a mirochip TC622 temp sensor and and a accelerometer so i can have a pedometer, and shake to wake so the watch is normally off until i shake my wrist and the temp sensor will be activated with a button to display the temp and for the club mode option also trying to make a water proof case. props for the great idea.
Hey, would you mind uploading a schematic or circuit diagram? It would make things a lot easier with the building, in my opinion.
I made it! Working great! Thanks!
Is there any chance of preprogrammed PICs?
I had a bunch of these boards made, then all my orders cancelled on me. I can sell them for about $4 + Shipping
If those boards are still available i am definately interested. Let me know if they are available mattwagner92597@aol.com. Thanks
I'm definitely interested in buying one. Please let me know if they are still available.<br>adele dot thompson7 at gmail dot com.
Good Idea, maybe set up a website or something?
I am very impressed by the knowledge in the comments and the posting. Is there anything on this site about quartz watches? I have looked under watch repair and nothing of any value (for me) came up.
&nbsp;Hello Ian<br /> First nice work man,I like it this binary clock I am fan of binary clocks<br /> Second I need the schematic can you post in original size.<br /> And one more thin because I am not a profesional in programming can you see it this <a href="http://www.mastrogippo.it/2008/09/yet-another-binary-watch/" rel="nofollow">wrist clock</a> ,I want to made it but the code is in <a href="http://www.mastrogippo.it/files/bw.c" rel="nofollow">&quot;C&quot; </a>can you converted into hex?Please help me<br /> Regards maco bt
Step 1: i think it reads 9:42 but you say it reads 9:24?
&nbsp;Think about it - the least significant bit is at the bottom of the display, not the top.
Ahem, 20ppm of one year is more like 10.5 minutes, or about 50 seconds per month, or did I&nbsp;miss something?<br />
I&nbsp;suppose this won't work under water.&nbsp; ...but maybe you weren't trying to create a diver's watch.<br />
I made the watch <sub></sub><br/><br/>BUT,<br/>i cannot program it<br/>I have a PICKit 2 programmer, and the program that came with it does not support that type of chip.<br/> I downloaded a new program, but it does not support the PICKit 2 programmer<sub></sub><br/><br/>Any suggestions??<br/>
this watch roooooocks men!!!!! i am going to do it .. for sure.... <br/><br/>P.D. it&acute;s construction has any problem<sub> or something that we should know about ???? </sub><br/>
I built it, ant it worked on the first try. Be sure to read the PIC programming tutorials
Very nice. I built it.<br/>I made photos of it's construction: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://picasaweb.google.com/asafteirobert/ConstructiaCeasuluiBinar">http://picasaweb.google.com/asafteirobert/ConstructiaCeasuluiBinar</a> .<br/><br/>Sorry for the &quot;&Acirc;&copy; Twinsen&quot;. :D<br/><br/>Interesting thing is that i couldn't find a SMD Darlingthon transistor, so i used a normal one, and it works great, it's even too sensitive.<br/><br/>Have you updated the firmware any recently?<br/>
great job on them watches lad. hope i could use this info of yours to help me fix my broken <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.gadgetepoint.co.uk/prod-oregon-daylight-projection-clock.php">oregon daylight projection clock</a>. great job again! keep it up! \m/<br/>
Wow! I really want to make this, but I can't seem to find the instructions! All I can decipher from this page is a brief history of the parts. Am I seeing/doing something wrong?
where can you buy the little leds-- like on the strip at the bottom Great i cant wait for the updates of this wow this is wiked
Well, as they say, if you cant build it, buy it :<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/binary-watch/index.html">http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/binary-watch/index.html</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/square-binary-watch/index.html">http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/square-binary-watch/index.html</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/binary-clock/index.html">http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/binary-clock/index.html</a><br/>
This thing is Brill!, I am going to try and make one, but where can I get the code to program the PIC chip?
One more question, how does one go about programming one of these chips? Is there something I need to buy to interface it with my computer?
There is a cct for a JDM2 style ICSP programmer included with the project archive. It has a readme.txt with details.
Wow nice little project there =)<br/>I'm wondering what software did you use for the 3d rendering of the boards???<br/>
The 3d images used in this instructable were made from the Eagle Board files with Eagle3D and POV ray:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.matwei.de/doku.php?id=en:eagle3d:eagle3d">http://www.matwei.de/doku.php?id=en:eagle3d:eagle3d</a><br/>
Looks like a very neat project! I'd liike to try to build one of these inside a broken wristwatch or something. What are the dimensions of the chip? Thanks.
Thanks Parker, The chip is standard SO-300 package from microchip. Its a little wide for my taste, but that makes it even easier to solder. This was my first surface mount project.
Very nice idea. Good implementation. Well written instructable! Your touch sensors may be more complicated than necessary. Since the inputs to the PIC are MOS transistors, they have a very high impendence all by themselves, and you might get by with just finger resistance to a power rail and a big (~2M?) pull-x resistor or the internal pullups.
I noticed this when prototyping. The PNP alone would do it. I had not thought about using the bare pins - thats a great idea. I will give it a shot.
I forgot to mention the bad side, which is that the MOS gates in the micro are probablyt easier to damage via static than the bipolar transistors....
I've got to include a link to your charlieplexing instructable:<br/><br/><a href="https://www.instructables.com/ex/i/FA846F483AAB1029AC23001143E7E506/?ALLSTEPS">https://www.instructables.com/ex/i/FA846F483AAB1029AC23001143E7E506/?ALLSTEPS</a><br/><br/>This is different than the multiplexing used on the watch. I considered using it, but routing and driver design seemed easier for the straight multiplex.<br/>
Good project, maybe it will get reserved for a weekend in the future. Wud be a cool keyring when going to geeky functions.
one note: curing epoxy can get hot enough to damage a circuit. use slow-curing epoxy because it doesn't get as hot, do a test cast and check the temperature - if it gets really hot then use an ice-bath to keep it cool during the cure. larger amounts of epoxy get hotter than smaller amounts due to reduced surface-area to volume ratio.
Thanks Dan, good tip. This was 36 hour cure epoxy. I didn't notice any heat when I worked with it. I had never worked with epoxy prior, only (poly) resins.
Very, very nice. You may like to know that Crisco also doubles as a great resin release agent and is much easier to apply than oil, in some cases...
Hi Ian, Great looking little device....and so many functions! As I said before, the touch switches are an inspired ummm....touch. I'm still having troubles getting a programmer to work with my 16F88 microdot watch...but made up a parrallel port programmer PCB...hopefully will get something working soon. Only problem is I'll need to add a whole lot more functions just to keep up with you! Phil
Thanks phil,<br/><br/>Did you give up on the JDM2? Getting the proper voltage can be a pain if you don't have a desktop with serial port. Its a simple design if your computer can drive it.<br/><br/>What parallel programmer are you making? I've ordered parts for 2 or 3 ll programmers, but never built them. I never wanted to deal with the power brick.<br/><br/>Here's a cool function you could include:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00996a.pdf">http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00996a.pdf</a><br/><br/>Cheers,<br/><br/>Ian<br/><br/>
Absolutely amazing. Beyond the obvious geek cool factor of the binary display, I wonder if a small SMD display matrix could be used for scrolling alphanumeric time, etc. display. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. The menu already scrolls text. Hex/DEC/bin selectable time display is on the firmware roadmap for v0.4.
I bow down to his suprememe geekiness.
that would ruin the point("Absolutely amazing. Beyond the obvious geek cool factor of the binary display, I wonder if a small SMD display matrix could be used for scrolling alphanumeric time", uless it was in binary)
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.ladyada.net/rant/?p=9">http://www.ladyada.net/rant/?p=9</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://static.flickr.com/46/107067240_7564270216.jpg?v=0">http://static.flickr.com/46/107067240_7564270216.jpg?v=0</a><br/>
very cool dude. very cool
(Mod +5: Uber-geek!) This is an excellent design and make Instructable! Everything about it says "I am elite geek"! Suggestions for further mods: "Auto Night mode" - detect the ambient light and set the duty cycle of the LEDs using that. "heart rate sensor" - useful for your clubbing idea, but also great for when exercising. You might be able to do this using the voltage changes on the Darlington? A small re-design of the board, to remove stuff from the corners, would allow it to be trimmed to a much smaller footprint, and allow better wrist wear. Much kudos. A*.

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