The problem is this:  The O.G. axles snap off where the step in the axle end is- right where the axle goes from inch to 3/4 inch. Plus the design uses too many bearings. The bearings don't have seals and water easily washes the grease out. The new design will use only 4 bearings and will never need lube.
Each Pedicab needs these parts:
4 one inch pillow block bearings with lock collars. part number 1-205-16-P-C from Surpluscenter.com 
2 single split shaft collars part number 1-2767-100 surplus center again
4 W1B1 weld hubs part number 1-2342-I surplus center.com
1 driven sprocket with 23 teeth and 1 inch bore for #40 chain part number 1-2123-23-E  surplus center
1 drive sprocket with 16 teeth and 3/4 inch bore for #40 chain part number 1-2123-16-C  surplus center sure is getting all my money. you only need this if the mid drive is broken
1 idler sprocket for #40 chain- part number
1-2409-17-A  surplus center
1 box of #40 chain part number
1-1163-40 surplus center- you won't use all the chain- two boxes will do three cabs.
2 axles. one inch with full length keyway. bmikarts.com
1 disk brake rotor part number
400285 bmikarts.com
about six inches of 1/4 inch key stock- Casa De Los Tornillos or Home Depot if you are in a pinch.
bolts 3/8 by 2 1/2 inches
grade eight .Casa De Los Tornillos or Home Depot
2 bolts 3/8 by one inch
1/2 inch by 1 1/2 carriage bolt and nut for tensioner
30 washers 3/8

14 inches of 1x2 "C" channel cut into two equal chunks. Source that from a local steel shop. You can also use 2 inch angle iron but its a bit weaker.

Step 1: Out With the Old

Strip off the body and old axle, set up the frame on some jackstands so its stable and get out your bearings.
As you can see the holes don't line up so time to drill some new ones. Get out the old bearing and mark the center line of the axle so you can drill new holes and keep the axle in the same spot. You could use one of the old holes and just drill one new hole but then the axle will move forward or rearward and won't be centered in the well when the body goes back on.

For now just drill and mount the two outer bearings using the bolts and washers you bought. Be sure the lock collar side goes in and not out. Also be sure to mount the bearing on the bottom of the frame. 
See that grease fitting? Useless. It does not lube the bearing, it is for the HOUSING that the bearing sits in. Throw it away so no one will think they have to use it. The bearing is sealed for life and good to 3000 rpm.
<p>Hi, where did you get the 1&quot; wheel hub's in the wheels to fit the 1&quot; axle?</p>
read the parts list-surpluscenter.com carries the weld hubs, they need to be machined down a small amount to fit into the wheel, then welded into place.<br>
making sleeves yourself is a no -go, unless you can broach cut the keyway. the weld hubs are a much quicker solution, lathe the outside and install.
<p>Are the wheels you have a 1&quot; 3/8 hub? Mine are. Lathing the W1B1's down will not leave a whole lot left. But it maybe my only option.</p><p>R</p>
<p>This is what Im going to ask the machinist to do....else I will buy the hubs.</p><p>Thanks for the reply. </p>
<p>Thanks, I looked at them and figured they would need machining. I am just having my welder make some sleeves to fit the wheel.</p><p>Thanks for the reply, that is a good option if I need it.</p>
<p>no good</p>
We're did u get the body for the bike or what Kane is it
I took the first disk to a metal shop, they did it but told me not to come back. apparently the cutter head kept catching on the 1/4 key groove and it was a nightmare to finish properly. ten minutes with grinder. or $20 new. much better.
A metal shop could bore this for you very cheap, the work would be nothing for them. Might help keep the disk running true. Stout hardware all around, nice upgrades.
nice one!

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