Introduction: 1000W Portable Induction Heater
Hey guys, this is my portable induction heater that can be powered either with batteries or connected to a power supply. You can use this to heat metals well above 1500 degrees Fahrenheit. I have made different attachments for cooking, releasing seized bolts, a solder pot attachment, and more. Take it camping or just use it around the shop to heat up different materials.
Step 1: What You'll Need
Step 2: Cut Four Blocks of Plastic.
Step 3: Press in Threaded Brass Inserts With a Soldering Iron.
Step 4: Attach Standoffs From the Opposite Side of the Blocks.
Step 5: Attach the Standoff Blocks to the ZVS Driver.
Step 6: Glue the ZVS Driver Into the Base of the Enclosure.
Step 7: Drill Holes for the Cable Glands, the Switch, and the Binder Clips.
Step 8: Bend Out the Binder Clips and Drill a Hole in the Center.
Step 9: Final Assembly
After feeding the cables into the cable glands, tighten them to the enclosure. Use screws and nuts to attach the binder clips and velcro to attach the batteries. Use a few layers of heat shrink tubing to your output cable to make the area for gripping more rigid. Use the terminal strip block to attach your coil to the hand wand.
Step 10: Taking It a Step Further.
After you have finished assembling the battery powered version, there are a few thing you can do to upgrade your unit. You can make an adapter that will allow you to use a high power 24VDC-48VDC power supply.
If you choose to go the power supply route, you must use two different switches to improve the reliability. One switch to turn on the power supply and another switch to apply power to the induction heater. The power supply should be turned on first and then you can turn on the power to the induction heater. The reason is that most cheap switching power supply don't reach their rated voltage quick enough to kickstart the oscillation of the circuit. This causes both of the MOSFETs to latch up and catch fire. The same will happen if your supply or batteries drop below 12V under full load.
Do not turn the unit on with something in the coil as this can also damage the unit.
You can also design different attachments for different uses. I've salvaged a coil from an induction cooktop as well as made my own cooktop coil. In addition to that, I've made an induction solder pot.
That's it guys! Let me know if you have any questions or comment.
Please vote for me if you liked this instructable or found it useful!
Until next time,
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I want to make a small boiler that will be used in a car. I think your pancake coil will work the best. The boiler should be permanently positioned on top of the coil. Can I put a switch on the coil or does the coil need to be connected when the unit is powered up? If the coil and the boiler have to be seperated this will make it much more complicated.
https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/733875701753944757/. Hi can you please tell me what power supply i would use with this style of induction unit? As in the way it is shown to do it with the microwave bits it does not tell you what power supply i should use with it. Hope you can help me out on this one.
Can a 12v car battery be used as a supply?
I've got an induction stovetop that didn't work when I got it (NEW) so they sent out a guy that didn't know anything about them and he had to 'Phone home" for instructions. They had him to some voltage checks and one was incorrect so they sent me a new power board. I removed the old one and noticed both boards (one for the left two burners and one for the right two burners) were setup as MASTER. Supposed to be one master and a slave. Put the jumper where it was supposed to be for the slave board and it fired right up. So the new board was a freebee and I want to use it as an induction heater. One 'burner' is 5700 watts and the other is 4500 watts. Board is powered by 240VAC.
My question is: What determines the number of turns and what size should the coil be?