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Hey guys, this is my portable induction heater that can be powered either with batteries or connected to a power supply. You can use this to heat metals well above 1500 degrees Fahrenheit. I have made different attachments for cooking, releasing seized bolts, a solder pot attachment, and more. Take it camping or just use it around the shop to heat up different materials.

Step 1: What You'll Need

Step 2: Cut Four Blocks of Plastic.

Step 3: Press in Threaded Brass Inserts With a Soldering Iron.

Step 4: Attach Standoffs From the Opposite Side of the Blocks.

Step 5: Attach the Standoff Blocks to the ZVS Driver.

Step 6: Glue the ZVS Driver Into the Base of the Enclosure.

Step 7: Drill Holes for the Cable Glands, the Switch, and the Binder Clips.

Step 8: Bend Out the Binder Clips and Drill a Hole in the Center.

Step 9: Final Assembly

After feeding the cables into the cable glands, tighten them to the enclosure. Use screws and nuts to attach the binder clips and velcro to attach the batteries. Use a few layers of heat shrink tubing to your output cable to make the area for gripping more rigid. Use the terminal strip block to attach your coil to the hand wand.

Step 10: Taking It a Step Further.

After you have finished assembling the battery powered version, there are a few thing you can do to upgrade your unit. You can make an adapter that will allow you to use a high power 24VDC-48VDC power supply.

If you choose to go the power supply route, you must use two different switches to improve the reliability. One switch to turn on the power supply and another switch to apply power to the induction heater. The power supply should be turned on first and then you can turn on the power to the induction heater. The reason is that most cheap switching power supply don't reach their rated voltage quick enough to kickstart the oscillation of the circuit. This causes both of the MOSFETs to latch up and catch fire. The same will happen if your supply or batteries drop below 12V under full load.

Do not turn the unit on with something in the coil as this can also damage the unit.

You can also design different attachments for different uses. I've salvaged a coil from an induction cooktop as well as made my own cooktop coil. In addition to that, I've made an induction solder pot.

Step 11:

That's it guys! Let me know if you have any questions or comment.

Please vote for me if you liked this instructable or found it useful!

Until next time,

Anthony(Proto G)

<p>these items are really hard to buy here in my country, how much to build one and send to me ?</p>
<p>&quot;Look up bolt buster.&quot;</p><p>Wow $600!</p>BB2-ACC Heat Induction with Advanced Coil Kit<p>$549.99</p><p>Bolt Buster II Heat Induction Tool with Advanced Coil Kit. An all-in-one design that produces 1,000 watts of power at 95% + power efficiency. This patented design produces MORE Power Transfer at LESS current draw = Runs Cooler, More Power Also Comes complete with an Advanced Coil Kit, Custom Storage Case, Owners Manual on CD, 1 Year Parts and Labor Warranty.</p>
<p>my gosh... too expensive, well maybe another time</p>
<p>I have found a lot of different ZVS drivers on EBAY, and selected a pretty decent one, including the induction coil. One problem that I noticed in your design is that the electronics is NOT isolated from the AC mains, making this extremely dangerous to use (potential for electrocution!). A 48 Volt switching power supply capable of 20 to 30 amps should be used to drive this equipment.</p><p>I am very impressed with the demonstration, however, I would think that using batteries would not be too useful as they would run out of power quite quickly. Also, drawing 20A out of a small lithium battery may cause them to over heat, making them very dangerous.</p><p>Another thing I noticed in the video was the wire gauge to the switch is too small. The wire could, and probably does, heat up when the system is running. It should be at least #12 wire to be safe. It looks like it is maybe #16.</p><p>It is also recommended that the induction coil be cooled with flowing water. I am sure that doing so would greatly extend the life of the coil.</p><p>I am going to make one of these, but I am going to make it SAFE. There's no sense dying when you are having fun. It kind of puts a damper on the day!!</p>
<p>&quot;Hi very very good work please Can you share the electronic schema of the project <br>so I can build this project? this is my email: axxxxxxx@someISP.com Thank you in <br>advance for your kindness.&quot;</p><p>I flagged your post a inappropriate - best apparent option - as one should not post their email address here. Rather, set up your contact information to receive email notices of replies or use private messaging lest you wind up a target of spammers, spiders and worse. </p>
<p style="margin-left: 20.0px;"> Very good points you've made there and I'd be happy to resolve them for you. First of all, it is isolated from mains and it is safe. The big red variac is an isolated variac(Yes, they exist). If you watch some of my previous videos, you'll see that I have used a 48V 20A switching power supply and while these are the best option they are pretty expensive. Just demonstrating and alternative here and it works great with the variac because I can adjust the power output pretty easily. <br><br> Secondly, those batteries are just fine. They are quadcopter batteries rated at 45.5 amps continuous discharge and 91 amps burst current. You must not be familiar with quadcopter LiPos designed for such large current. They're amazing and I have pushed them beyond 45amps with my quadcopter with no issues. Look up bolt buster. It's a battery powered induction heater for loosening seized bolts. That's where I got the idea so this is not for long jobs but rather to solve problems in the field but you could easily connect much larger batteries.<br><br>The wire gauge for the switch is just fine. People don't realize that wire ratings are designed around resistive heating. If the wires don't get hot under full load, they're fine. I use a thermal camera for most of my builds. If something is excessively heating up, I'll upgrade it. If not, it is perfectly fine, including the batteries. </p><p style="margin-left: 20.0px;"> It is not necessary to cool the coil with water unless you plan on using this machine all day in which case, you shouldn't be using this unit anyway. The reason to cool the coil is to prevent heat from coming back to the circuit board not to extend the life of the coil. The coil will last forever. <br><br>Thanks again for the thoughtful comments. <br> </p>
<p>I have a question: Can this heat up copper? My question is can you loop several coils of copper through the induction coil then run water through to have a portable water heater that can run from a small solar bank.</p>
<p>It can heat up copper, but not nearly as quickly as steel. What you would do is wrap the pipe with a small bit of steel strap first to increase the speed of heating. </p>
<p>Will it work with Stainless Steel?</p><p>One can purchase SS tubing and, I imagine, bend it into a coil.</p><p>What do they use in those percolator drip coffee machines to carry the heated water/steam up to the basket of grounds?</p><p>I wonder if the shielding braid (carefully) salvaged from some large coaxial cable could be slipped round the copper tube (and pulled tightly to the tube) might work to accelerate the heating with the conduction to the copper cooling the shiel enough t prevent it from simply burning off.</p>
How can this be adapted to just re-heat a cup of coffee?
<p>Try Crucible Coffee to wake you up in the morning?</p><p>Wait, one shouldn't mess with such powerful circuitry before they've had their coffee!</p>
<p>Got a narrow steel coffee cup handy? ;)</p>
<p>Very interesting use of 6GA copper wire!</p><p>As another has indicated, your shop shelf tells us you are no amatuer tinkerer and the circuits quietly attest to your construction skills and innovative approaches (e.g. Clamps to hold the coil) to problems.</p><p>You may want to consider some sort of (Bluetooth?) microphone and writing a script for your video production (This from a fella who cannot tell you if such thing is available or how to add still images to a video or a count-down timer in the frame). </p><p>The folks SHOUTING &quot;SAFETY, SAFETY&quot; can be ignored, if not forgiven for taking up so much space as it was obvious to me (and, I suspect, to everyone else) that you are dealing with significant power and heat. </p><p>I would appreciate a list of links to your site (if you have one) or to your other projects (salvaging the induction coil from a cooktop, for instance) - especially those you mention here or are shown in use here.</p><p>You made a point about the circuit (when used with a PS demanding the coil be empty on start-up. </p><p>Thinking about the crucible application, I wondered if you could cycle/switch the induction coil off and on to maintain a particular heat/temperature without harming the electronics.</p><p>As to the air circulation within that sealed PVC container/electrical box, would adding a fan and some venting be ill-advised? Our a significantly larger electrical box?</p><p>Very impressive an several levels. Thank you.</p>
<p>One method to isolate a non isolated variac which I used years ago to make a servicing rig for my bench was to take two identical beefy STEP DOWN transformers i had laying around and wiring them back to back low voltage to low voltage sides. The emphasis on step down is to keep some noob from connecting two microwave transformers these as many know are step up transformers and VERY dangerous. Interesting post. Thank you.</p>
<p>Thank you for this excellent instructable. I plan to build this. I'll start with the battery powered version, may or may not progress to the power supply option.</p><p>A couple of questions. Sadly my existing drone batteries are too low capacity, so will have to purchase for this project. Any suggestions on capacity and discharge rate? I see you used XT60 connectors, some of the battery options use a T connector. Are there advantages to the XT60 for this project?</p><p>If I do wander toward the power supply route, I read lots of observations below on the variac. I see references both to isolated and to simply fused (not the same of course). Is isolated required for this application, or is fused enough?</p><p>Thanks</p><p>John</p>
Thank you for your response.<br><br>I haven't seen your previous projects, and I would think that many others that have seen this project and not the others might just follow your example. <br><br>I have variacs, and none of mine are isolated. I don't think the typical hobbiest would have one like yours, as they are quite expensive. Stating that these things should be isolated from line voltage should have been mentioned. There are liability issues that you may not be able to shrug off. My comment stands - THE PROJECT SHOULD BE ISOLATED FROM THE AC MAINS.<br><br>Thanks for the information about the batteries. I did not realize that they could pack such a punch. I'll have to look into those for some projects of mine.<br><br>I mentioned the cooling simply because the suppliers on EBAY mention that it should be done. It makes sense to me as well. It's simple to do, and may prevent the copper tubing from melting. After a few minutes of heating, I can see that the copper could become quite hot and possibly melt. It has been stressed simply by winding it, and that can make it weaker.<br><br>I have designed many items for communications, instrumentation, electrical, and industrial applications. I can see from the instrumentation in your shop that you know what you are doing, for you, but the idea when designing something potentially deadly, and this is by UL, CSA, and CE standards, you need to design it for the less technically informed.<br><br>I like the project, don't get me wrong, and I am going to build one. Even though I will most likely be the only one that may use it, I am still going to make it safe for anyone to use. We all make mistakes, especially when we are trying to do something quickly.<br><br>Oh, I have seen short pieces of wire go up in smoke, even though they can carry large currents for short periods of time without heating up too much. In this case, you aren't even fused, so if your mosfets shorted out for some reason, that little piece of wire would flame out in 1/2 second. I guess you call that a fuse?????
<p>&quot;so if your mosfets shorted out for some reason, that little piece of <br>wire would flame out in 1/2 second. I guess you call that a fuse?????&quot; -from ve6smm</p><p>Fusible links, car manufactures use them, why can't everyone else?</p><p>When using AC mains in anything fuses/circuit breakers should be used on the device designed i agree, even if only used by you the designer unless you have really good fire insurance and or life insurance. Just couldn't help commenting on the fact that this practice is used in other things. use a smaller section of wire that is rated to barely passes enough current for normal operation so any over current burns it up and breaks the circuit. Troubleshooting nightmare on cars. and even i do not even agree on the practice from a safety standpoint. And i am a person that does not believe in safety as propagandized by the sue happy want-a-be mama boy society we live in now.</p><p>hope this was nice and constructive enough for this forum but sometimes we get splinters and scratches and we just need to suck it up buttercups</p>
Hi willtoolman,<br><br>Yes, fusible links are used in cars, and they do protect circuitry, and they are designed for it. It's also low voltage, which does not arc for any great distance. A piece of wire isn't designed as a fusible link. I guess you have never seen the results of a wire being over stressed by much more power than it has been designed for. First, you smell some hot plastic, then you see flames. Turning off the power does not help. My neighbor had his whole dash in his Chevy truck go up in smoke because Chevy ran the wiring loom so tightly across a piece of steel supporting the dash that it cut through, shorting 28 wires out, and they burnt back over a foot. This is apparently good fusable link application! It worked wonderfully. Chevy could sell another $1000 wiring loom! Exactly what they want - protect their income.<br><br>If it was no big deal, like you suggest, maybe we don't need fuses at all? I could be wrong about that, but I don't mind spending an extra buck or two to do it right.<br><br>I guess doing things properly and safely isn't a big concern for some. I have bypassed protection circuitry and fuses in my own equipment when testing, or if it is in a &quot;one off&quot;, short term piece of equipment, but I would never suggest not fusing a piece of line powered equipment in an Instructable. <br><br>Proto G explained why he did it, this was an extension to one of his earlier projects, which I had not seen. I have been a member of Instructables for years and never saw his previous posts. I looked back through his many Instructables and found even more info on this project. The one using a 300VDC PWM supply was very good, and the heating element WAS isolated from the line and appropriately protected.<br><br>It seems bot the and I know better as to how to appropriately protect equipment. Many newcomers and backyard mechanics may not. Going super cheap is NEVER a good idea.
All I am trying to say is a lot of the people on Instructables do not have the knowledge or experience that you and I do, and that needs to be taken into consideration. I have never seen any of your Instructables until this one showed up in my inbox today. It has solved a problem that I run into once in a while when working in my shop. I'd often thought of building a system like this, and your project has saved me a lot of time.<br><br>However, I am sure that others have seen this that don't have our experience and are going to try to build it. You might want to mention the safety aspects of your projects so you can CYA.<br><br>The project is great. I know I am going to use it. How long it will be running for, I am not sure. But these things can be used for bending steel pipe, copper pipe, aluminum pipe into very nicely curved pieces, and maybe even square tubing. I build a lot of prototype electronics, and often have to come up with something unique. That's what I am hoping to be able to do with this. I may end up having to build a much larger system to do some projects, but this is a very good start.<br><br>Thank you for the kick in the butt and the inspiration to build this.<br><br>Also, have you tried changing the frequency of operation? I know some of the really big systems have a variable frequency so that they can get higher efficiency with different materials.<br>
<p>I didn't even write about my power supply in this instructuable so there was no need to even mention it. I intentionally left the power supply out as this is a tutorial how to make the portable battery power unit. As far as pipe bending, a steel pipe will work fine but you definitely will need to insulate the coil with fiberglass sleeving to prevent it from shorting out. Copper and aluminum will heat up but much slower than steel but you can build a fixture that has a steel or graphite sleeve that the pipe can slide through to speed up the heating. Industrial units are much better than this because you can adjust the frequency. This unit is self oscillating so the frequency will change depending on what you place in the coil. As the parts you place inside get larger, the inductance will raise, thereby decreasing the resonant frequency of the LC tank. Nice talking with you!</p>
<p>It absolutely should be isolated like mine is if you are powering it off a power supply. My variac is fused and is where my unit will be used most of the time. I don't have the need to use the battery too often but it's nice to have. The MOSFETs would fail way before that wire ever got even close to hot but the fuse is a nice addition if you want to give your circuit added protection. The copper will never even get close to melting if you just put fiberglass sleeving over the coil or insulate the crucible like I did when I melted aluminum in an older video of mine. Even without the fiberglass sleeve it would be impossible to melt the copper from radiated heat with only 1000W. Again, the cooling is to protect the circuit, NOT the coil. Cooling is only necessary if you are going to use it for very long periods of time. What is your intended use? </p>
<p>Hi, </p><p>Seems like a great idea to me. Would you be able to use this method to produce a portable block / sump heater for a car in the winter months?</p>
Great chatting with you too. I looked way back in your instructables and found your posts very informative. I have all the makings for a 3KW system in my shop, believe it or not. I built a 3KW power inverter that will operate anywhere from 30 to 70KHz as it stands, so really all I need to do is wind a big toroid and the heating coil circuit!<br><br>I can see me getting into trouble........
This is amazing I can heat up everything:) . What are the other attachments you spoke of for cooking?
<p>Check out my channel! I have a few recent videos of a salvaged coil and an older video of me making my own coil . </p>
<p>This is really great and thanks for the explanation that goes along with everything else. You really did a fine job here, I've wanted to build one for years but really didn't quite understand what was involved. I've wanted to be able to re-sharpen and temper the edges of hacksaw blades. I wish there was a way to do it where the entire blade didn't get hot, just the edge. Thank you very much!</p>
<p>Thanks for the kind words! You could definitely use it to heat up hacksaw blades!</p>
<p>Hi</p><p>very very good work</p><p>please Can you share the electronic schema of the project so I can build this project?</p><p>this is my email: aidany60@gmail.com</p><p>Thank you in advance for your kindness.</p>
<p>Hello!<br>Can you share the electronic schema of the project so I can build this project?</p><p>If it is possible, you can forward it to: mariano.andre@gmail.com</p><p>Thank you in advance for your kindness.</p>
<p>i need to know how to make your power supply</p><p>e-mail me a detailed scematic at msw1only@gmail.com</p>

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Bio: Electromechanical Engineer, Product Designer, Maker. I love to make prototypes and teach others in the process. I graduated from UCF and spent two years working ... More »
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