This is the demonstration of powering 100W/34V  LED  from 12V power-supply .

there are 5 parts
1, 12V/7.4Ah UPS sealed lead acid battery

2, DC-DC step up converter [12v to 34V boost converter ]


3, constant current driver [ not include ]
   low cost LED driver from http://homemadecircuitsandschematics.blogspot.in

4, LED 100w /34V with sufficient heat sink [ Processor heat sink  is a good option  ]


5,  LED Lens and Lens holder 

 video: old

video: new

<p>I build a 100 W LED too. Maybe some hints for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh3FTfb5i74</p>
<p>I made one of these with a different step-up regulator and have drawn up a schematic of it if anyone is interested in seeing more details: <a href="http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2015/08/how-to-power-a-100w-led.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.shareyourrepair.com/2015/08/how-to-powe...</a></p><p>It doesn't put out 100W though.</p>
<p>I made the circuit and I encountered a problem.</p><p>I supplied from a source computer and functioned properly, but when I powered by a car battery to light it burned.why</p>
<p>Hi, i've tried to use a 50w led with the same driver you have. but the problem is whenever I try to power it with 12V supply, a hissing sound comes out and i only get 27V at the output with load and around 35V without load means without the LED. Is it normal or do I have a faulty driver? </p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>I have had the same problem. I found that the gauge wire i was using was either too small or too long causing to great of a voltage drop through it ( from the battery to the boost converter). once the input voltage dropped to about 9-10v the converter would begin to hiss and the led would flicker. So check the input voltage to the converter at the converter and that should solve the problem.</p>
<p>I thought I would check how flat the LED and heatsink were. They are terrible so I polished the back of LED with 400, 600, 1000 grit wetordry on a flat surface. It seems to reduced temps. I also used a copper heat spreader before the aluminium heatsink</p>
<p>Oh, forgot to mention, the second pic is before I was finished removing scratches from 400 grit. The copper disc is a 'scrap' piece from motorcycle head gasket I made for my 1974 Honda. Copper has much better thermal conductivity than aluminium. I also used. thermal paste It used to be quite common to check the flatness of PC processors before fitting heatsink to get better heat transfer</p>
<p>hi </p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/crazypj/" rel="nofollow">crazypj</a> </p><p>great work.</p>
Nice thing.<br>But do i really need a current limiter to drive the LED and if yes, what transistors/resistors will I need?(32V, 3A) and do I need PNP or NPN transistors?<br>I think the step up converter is current limited at 6A, sso that would kill the LED...<br><br>Thanks.
<p>DC-DC 100W Constant Current Boost Step-up Module Power Supply.</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-DC-DC-100W-Constant-Current-Boost-Step-up-Module-Power-Supply-LED-Driver-/310918358323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item48642da533</p>
ever check temps on that thing? id be curious as to how much light it actually produced and how warm it is 2-3&quot; from the led edge and center.
9000 Lumens. <br> at least 40 deg C
Very cool. Or rather, due to 100 watts, hot? Still, a great instructable.

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Bio: embedded system enthusiast ...
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