This project came about from my need for a light source for my Franken-ebay stereo microscope. I will have another instructable that will cover using this driver / dimmer card in a fiber optic setup. It is now available here:

Main design goals for this project were:
  1. Small size
  2. 10 dimming levels + off
  3. minimum 10W power handling 
  4. Fan control (on/off + PWM)
 Board files, logic, firmware, and source code can be found on my web page here

Here is a video of me taking the prototype card though it's paces:


Step 1: Some Math

Before starting the build there is a little bit of math required to select the LED, LED current limit resistor, and power supply. 

LED selection:
This circuit can drive either a single led or a string of leds as long as they fall under the following conditions:
  1. Max forward current of the string is 1A (1000mA) or less
  2. Max forward voltage of the string is 24.5V or less

LED current limit resistor:
The CAT4101 datasheet includes the following table for setting LED current. 
LED current in mA current limit resistor value in Ohms
100mA 4990 Ohms
200mA 2490 Ohms
300mA 1690 Ohms
400mA 1270 Ohms
500mA 1050 Ohms
600mA 866 Ohms
700mA 768 Ohms
800mA 680 Ohms
900mA 604 Ohms
1000mA 549 Ohms

Power supply selection:
There are 3 conditions the power supply must meet to be used with this driver.
  1. Unloaded voltage (floating / LEDs off) less than 25V
  2. 0.5V greater than max LED (or string) voltage
  3. Less than 6V over the LED (or string) voltage when LEDs are on) 
  4. Output current of the power supply is greater than the forward current of the LED (or string) + 100mA

In my case I am using a LED with a on voltage of 10V to 12V and a forward current of 1A (1000mA) (this is from the LED data sheet)
12V is less than 24.5V so ok there. 
1A (1000mA) looked up in the current limit resistor table results in a 549 Ohm resistor
12v (LEDVmax) + 0.5v = 12.5v is the minimum output voltage that the power supply can put out and be usable. 
10V (LEDVmin) + 6V = 16V is the maximum output voltage that the power supply can put out and be usable. 
1A + 100mA = 1.1A is the minimum output current that the power supply can put out and be usable. 
In my junk pile I happened to have a 16V @ 4.5A power supply from an old laptop. This meets all the requirements calculated above for the LED I picked. 

<p>Great Instructable! I just want to know if I can use this </p><p>10w LED <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-LED-SMD-Chip-Bulb-Bead-High-Power-for-Flood-Light-Lamp-/221871109445?var=&hash=item33a88c7545:m:m6f06cSy7lLTe2P40QRgRYg" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-L...</a> </p><p>with this</p><p>Lipo Battery <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-ZIPPY-Flightmax-8000mAh-3S1P-30C-Lipo-Pack-/261547565399?hash=item3ce5732157:g:Y5cAAOSwRLZT2FM-" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-ZIPPY-Flightmax-8000mAh...</a></p><p>and just put a switch on the - line from the battery to the LED? or do I need this driver?</p><p>also would this charger work with the battery above?</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Turnigy-Accucel-6-80W-10A-Balancer-Charger-LiHV-Capable-/281922015821" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Turnigy-Accucel-6-80W-1...</a></p><p>and I'm thinking of mounting the led on a stock intel socket 775 heatsink (without the fan) laying around. Can the heatsink dissipate the heat enough? or do I need to add a fan?</p>
<p>First the easy part the battery and charger do look compatible. </p><p>Harder part battery and LED. They battery MAY work but it is right on the lower edge of the range at 11.1V. I would recommended looking for a 4S1P or 5S1P pack in about the same size should be around 14V or 17V. You need some sort of current limiting device between the LED and the battery or the led will fry. The regulator above takes care of the current limiting.</p><p>Heat sinks design is a black magic of its own so I cannot give you an exact answer without a lot of detailed specs. My guess is the heatsink will be plenty big. Best way to tell if a fan is needed is to try it. Get everything mounted and working (don't forget thermal compound) then monitor the temperature of LED base plate. As long as that does not get too hot your good to go. </p>
<p>Bro can i use this us i have a new xhp70 </p><p>Datasheet / vendor said</p><ul> <br><li>Maximum drive current: 4800mA (6V), 2400mA (12V)</ul><p>Can this board get this crazy power led working and if yes please can you please tell me the modification needed on the board.</p><p>Thanks for reading.</p>
<p>The XHP70 is a 2.4A max LED. Unfortunately the regulator used in this design can only supply up to 1A. This would work with the XHP70 but the LED would only be ~1/3 as bright as it could be. To get full brightness you would need to move to a regulator IC that can handle 2.4A or more. </p>
<p>And which one you recommend i want to connect 1 maybe 2</p><p>Thanks for Reading.</p>
Tinyurl.com/qa3tlwt<br><br>The one i have is <br>Input 12-24v<br>Output 12v-24v<br>3x2a
<p>That is more or less a PWM switch. You will need some sort of regulator (active or a passive resistor) between it and the LED. Otherwise the current rating and voltage should be sufficent to run the 10W RGB leds. </p>
<p>is there a simpler way to drive a 10w led for in car use (12v)<br>can i just use a 1.5 Ohm resistor?</p><p>i wanna replace the headlight bulb with 10w led, if it works ok i might go for RGB 20/50w :)<br><br>btw the car makers should reaaly really invest in leds and use 1/2 RGB leds for brake/turn/reverse lights</p>
<p>Normal car voltage will vary between ~11.5V to ~15V depending on the state of charge on the battery. So if you wanted to go the resistor only route using the same LED as above you would need to go with a 5 Ohm 5 Watt resistor. This would cover the worst case condition of Vmin led (10V) and Vmax car (15V). Note that thing will get very hot. Recommend the metal encased type that can be screwed to a frame member to be used as a heatsink. Note the LEDs will dim / brighten based on the battery state of charge. Using a active regulator like I did will keep the brightness constant regardless of input voltage.</p><p>Some car MFGs do use leds for tail lights. (in fact quite a few) </p>
<p>sorry to spam but one more question<br>can i use those led strip remotes with this 10w led <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10w-LED-Lamps-white-blue-red-green-RGB-High-Power-light-Source-3000-3200k-6000-6500k/32259746293.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10w-LED-Lamps-white...</a><br>without any additional circuit?<br>thnx</p>
<p>not sure what remote your referring to. </p>
This is quite, enlightening.
I'm working on a 5A laser diode driver using the PIC12F752. The requirements are a bit more stringent than driving an LED. I hope you don't mind if I examine your source code. :D
Follow the link to my website all the source is in the zip with the board file. FYI the pic on mine just handles the PWM control for dimming. All the current control is handled by the CAT4101 so even if the PIC goes haywire the led will be fine.
Where did you get that Kearsarge 522 Laboratory Timer?? I want one!! Nice article. Just what I needed!
Actually found it in the trash back in school. Needed to be cleaned out but once that was done has worked since. If anyone ever sees a manual for it let me know. Looked on and off over the years but never found one online.
WHAT!? In the thrash!? You are so lucky, man! If I ever come across a manual for it, I'll let you know.
It was in really bad shape not sure what the stuff was they dumped on it but was sticky and really gummed all the buttons and switches up. Took me a few weeks to take everything apart and clean the goop out.
You never show the LED you chose. Any details?
If you follow the link to the fiber light post at https://www.instructables.com/id/10W-LED-fiber-light-source/step2/LED-and-heat-sink-selection/ step 2 had the information on the LED. I used a DC-LE14274 from sure electronics in that application. Wrote this instructable up to be more generic so folks could use this driver with any led or string of leds that fell under the 24.5V @ 1A maximum.
Cool! Thank you!
"Franken-ebay stereo microscope." Perfect.

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