3 Simple Ways to
Share What You Make

With Instructables you can share what you make with the world — and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.

PhotosPhotos

Share one or more photos of a project, recipe, or whatever you've made, quickly and easily.

Step by StepStep-By-Step

Share your step-by-step photos with text instructions of what you made so others can do it too!

VideoVideo

Share your how-to video. You'll need your embed code from a video site such as YouTube.

$10ish DIY Variable Temp Soldering Iron Controller

Step 3Conclusion

You could probably use this for a variable speed controller for a dremel tool as well, although I haven't tested it. Just make sure you don't exceed the 600w rating of your dimmer. Thinking about it now, it would be really nice to have one of those outlet / pilot light outlets so you could see if the controller is on or off. Hope you enjoyed my instructable!
« Previous StepDownload PDFView All StepsNext Step »
10 comments
Apr 1, 2011. 6:48 AMHVACRguy says:
ALSO you could use an amp meter to see how many amps the iron is using then multiply amps by volts and that will give you watts! you can then mark on your dimmer control box where 15 watts is 20 watts 25 watts 30 watts 35 watts and 40 watts are!!! hope this helps
Mar 5, 2009. 5:56 AM222fbj says:
How to measure/mark temperatures on the dimmer? An inexpensive hi temp thermometer?
Dec 28, 2009. 5:31 PMmilsorgen says:
 That's what I was thinking, or just assume that half way is half power and hence half the normal operating temp of your iron.
Oct 3, 2009. 6:50 PMbruno85 says:
can you just use a normal off or oon light switch or the one you have
Nov 29, 2009. 8:05 PMScubaSteve says:
This is so you can control the temperature of your soldering iorn.
Feb 27, 2009. 12:26 AMsydkahn says:
No all we need to do is hook up an Arduino and a temp probe on the iron... LOL
Mar 5, 2009. 12:12 PMmightywombat says:
My multimeter has a temperature gauge.
Feb 28, 2009. 3:37 AMbben46 says:
Nicely done. I have several old dimmers in my junk box from when I converted all of my incandescent lights to CFL. I may build one. Normally I use a Weller gun for heavy duty soldering and a 25 watt pencil for light work. This would allow using a 40 watt pencil and setting the temp for the work when I need just a little more than my 25 watt iron allows.
Feb 26, 2009. 11:39 PMWildrat says:
Since were being nit picky. I don't think there's going to be any loss by trimming the aluminum,after all it's going to be mounted in a metal box. Aluminum is a better conductor but that metal box can conduct also. If I were building the project, I wouldn't even have wasted any time thinking about something like that. I think I might add this to my project list since I have several dimmers that I removed from my home and I can always use another soldering device like a hole in the head.
Feb 26, 2009. 3:59 PMpetey_c says:
#1 should be, "What is the wattage of the soldering iron you are going to control?" When you trim the "excess aluminum" from the dimmer you have to derate it. That means it is no longer rated for 600w. #2 In the US, the box you're referring to is called a 1900 box, or 4" square box, not handy box. Handy box is for a single electrical device. #3 If you didn't want to trim any excess aluminum from the dimmer, you could use a flat "mud ring" (I'm not sure what the technical term for it is. 1900 boxes are typically used in commercial applications. Metal studs... A mud ring is used to bring the face of the box to the same depth as the sheetrock/wallboard (flat, 1/4", 1/2", etc) before the sheetrock is installed.)Once that's up and your devices are in place, you can use conventional device plates (painted metal, stainless steel, nylon, etc.) #3 You should NOT use an incandescent light dimmer to control the speed of a motorized device. You can damage the motor or the dimmer, or both. If you need to control the speed of a low wattage motor, in a fashion similar to what you have here, you could use a Leviton/Lutron variable speed fan control. The pilot light switch is a good idea. #4 Although not required, you could also wrap the outlet with a couple of turns of electrical tape, in case there's anything rolling around in the box after you're done, or to reduce the odds of an uninsulated ground wire contacting the hot terminals. #5 You could also make it a little safer and use a GFI outlet.
Feb 26, 2009. 7:25 PMsdallesasse says:
since when does trimming a devices "ears" mean that it gets derated? I've never heard a 4" SQ box referred to as a 1900 box. Most soldering irons are around 40W for the pencil kind that he is referring to. How would a GFCI make this setup any safer? Is he soldering electronics around water?
Feb 26, 2009. 7:54 PMWyle_E says:
The warning referred to the dimmer. The aluminum front panel of the device is part of the heatsink. I don't think losing a little heatsink makes a difference when driving a soldering iron with a 600-watt dimmer. The biggest soldering iron I ever used was a 200-watter used for sheet metal work.

Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

All Steps Viewing
View all steps of an Instructable on the same page when you're a Pro Member.

Upgrade to Pro today!
5
Followers
1
Author:titaniumw41