Step 2: Get latex paint off of skin
I've worked as a painter for a couple of years, and one thing was certain: I ended up with paint on me. Somewhere.
Latex paints and primers are sneaky. Sometimes they just rub off like rubber cement, other times they'll stay in your knuckles for a couple of days. Whenever some Lava soap couldn't get all the Lemon Ice or Chesapeake Gray paint off of my hands, baby oil would come to the rescue.
Rub a little onto the part of your body covered in paint using a cotton ball, shop towel, napkin, or anything else you've got on hand that will absorb the baby oil. Rub in concentric circles from the outside in without applying too much pressure. This isn't a scrub, it's more a gentle, localized massage. You can scrub to your heart's content after you've washed it off with some soap and water, once you feel you've made some progress with the oil.
This worked when I dropped a five gallon bucket of paint on myself while on a ladder in a Sears, because five gallons manages to get past the normal problem areas (hands, arms, flecks on the face from rolling out a ceiling) and into some unusual locations that could be sensitive to paint thinner. Presumably the oil degrades the latex to the point that it will flake off. This is why condom + baby oil = one beautiful bundle of joy 9 months later.
Latex paints and primers are sneaky. Sometimes they just rub off like rubber cement, other times they'll stay in your knuckles for a couple of days. Whenever some Lava soap couldn't get all the Lemon Ice or Chesapeake Gray paint off of my hands, baby oil would come to the rescue.
Rub a little onto the part of your body covered in paint using a cotton ball, shop towel, napkin, or anything else you've got on hand that will absorb the baby oil. Rub in concentric circles from the outside in without applying too much pressure. This isn't a scrub, it's more a gentle, localized massage. You can scrub to your heart's content after you've washed it off with some soap and water, once you feel you've made some progress with the oil.
This worked when I dropped a five gallon bucket of paint on myself while on a ladder in a Sears, because five gallons manages to get past the normal problem areas (hands, arms, flecks on the face from rolling out a ceiling) and into some unusual locations that could be sensitive to paint thinner. Presumably the oil degrades the latex to the point that it will flake off. This is why condom + baby oil = one beautiful bundle of joy 9 months later.
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If your furniture isn't coated with wax, whether from Pledge or some other product, you can apply "tung oil finish," pure tung oil (polymerized is preferred) or boiled linseed oil. The latter two may emit an odor longer than the finish, which is just thinned linseed oil with resin, thus, a wiping finish. These will harden and, if thinned for application (the finish is already thinned), will soak in just as the mineral oil would.
Boiled linseed oil (just flax seed oil with [toxic] driers added, and which has been polymerized by blowing air through it so it appears to be boiling, thus the name "boiled linseed oil") and tung, or Chinese oil, as well as products that incorporate those names (e.g., "Tung Oil Finish") are hardening finishes. Boiled linseed oil and tung oil are common ingredients in high end finishes.
Since the last of my post talked about hardening oils, as opposed to [non hardening] baby oil, I presumed people would note the difference, The difference in the types of oils is noted several posts down from this.
For reference, below is a quote from.jamestowndistributors site. Other sites can be found that describe the process. Batches could be ruined by overheating, such as by bringing them to a boil. That may be why a finish which would not normally melt "gave more traction when hot.
"'Boiled' linseed oil, though, is not boiled. The actual boiling of some varnish oils changes their drying characteristics. With linseed oil, though, it is the addition of certain solvents that causes linseed oil to dry more quickly, acting as if it were boiled. This makes it a better product for preserving tool handles, decks, and furniture. I suppose they should have named it "sort-of-boiled linseed oil", or "kinda-like-boiled-but-not-really-boiled linseed oil". Boiled Linseed Oil is used as a natural wood finish and preservative, either alone or with other oils and solvents. Mixed with oil based paints and varnishes, it increases gloss and improves leveling and durability. A mixture of 2 parts boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine creates a semi-gloss wood polish for furniture. Can also be mixed with mineral spirits."
As elsewhere noted, the term boiled, when applied to boiled linseed oil, is said to be based on that the oil appeared to be boiling, when air was blown through the oil to speed polymerization.
bullfrogs
If your going to be doing heavy duty painting then use petroleum jelly instead.
;P