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11 dollar collapsable monopod.

11 dollar collapsable monopod.
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  • mount2.jpg
  • whole.jpg
  • collapsed.jpg
I wanted to make a monopod that fit the following criteria:
1. cheap. super cheap.
2. no duct tape this time.
3. it had to be collapsible or telescoping.
4. The camera has to mount to it, not just sit on it.
5. I had to be able to make it in a few minutes because I have the attention span of a gnat.
 
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Step 1Determine the specs

determine the specs
I wanted the thing to be roughly shoulder height, but collapsible down to something that would fit in a floorboard of a car. It also needed to have the proper thingy to mount to the camera.

Time to go to the hardware store. I had 15$ to work with. I brought with my, my camera to find a bolt that would thread into the bottom. From what I have seen, all cameras have the same threading. it turns out that the threading is 1/4 inch. nice.
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20 comments
Oct 22, 2009. 1:00 PMAlSoto says:
(removed by author or community request)
May 13, 2008. 11:28 AMWhatnot says:
Camera bolt threading is actually a 'whitmore' threading which is slightly different from the standard U.N.C. american thread in the angle of the thread cuts, but regular UNC bolts do work though. Unfortunately in europe even normal U.N.C. bolts are a bit harder to come by due to the normal bolts all using the metric M system and those have completely different threads and won't work :/
Sep 7, 2007. 5:48 AMsrilyk says:
For the tip you could either glue on a piece of rubber (Piece of old shoe sole?) or just use a big dab of shoe goo or similar epoxy - dries to approximately the same consistency of rubber, though you probably want to sand/rough the surface for a stronger bond.

You could easily buy a cheap level @ a dollar store, they often have keychain levels.

For a quick release boot you could just take a non-threaded end cap and barely sand the inside so it's snug, but not too snug. With a spring and a penny nail you could even make a "safety catch".

For a tilt you could probably either use a stiff ball joint, or somehow tighten a loose one. I'm sure for <$20 you could probably add all the parts to make it even nicer! Good job!
Jul 23, 2007. 6:02 PMjoeadkins says:
I was thinking about it and you could make that completely collapsable and self contained. Use different sized pipes and bushings. I made a mockup image to explain. You can even lock the center pipe into the outer pipe for travel, so it won't come out unless you want it to come out. Keep in mind proportions are out of wack to show all parts needed. Pipes will need to be longer, etc. Think of this way, when you pull the center pipe out the bushing will screw into the top end cap and vice versa when closed. The bottom bushing will screw into the bottom end cap.
Jul 23, 2007. 6:03 PMjoeadkins says:
Obviously aluminum pipe would be lighter, but iron pipe would work just as well and be very sturdy. All end caps are also metal.
Mar 14, 2007. 5:07 PMbhunter736 says:
I think it is great. I bet it doesnt start to colapse from the weight of a full 35mm with flash on it the way some of the inexpensive commercial ones do. Next time Im on vacation in a pinch, I will remember this as a quality option. Maybe Ill just make the actual mount and keep that in my camera stuff. If Im in a bind I can just buy a length of PVC and consider it disposable for $2.
Mar 18, 2007. 8:26 PMWeissensteinburg says:
I made one of thee today. My cost totaled at 10.91, so 11 dollars is right. I made it out of steel pipes. I got one 1/2in 10ft length, and one 3/4in 10ft length.
Mar 11, 2007. 10:29 PMWeissensteinburg says:
Well I took your idea, and made plans for my own. I figured out how to 1. make it easier to collapse. and 2. make it somewhat tilt able. 1 I will have the two pipes overlap, and then drill a hole through both of them, so when its extended, I will push a small bolt through each hole, making it so the pipes cant move up or down. 2. It can only be portrait or landscape, but I will drill a small hole through the 1/4 bolt, and then put a nail through the pipe, with the bolt on it. This way the bolt will be able to pivot along where I will cut the cap from the center, to horizontal one one side of the cap. Then I will just make something similar to my number 1 fastener, to fasten it when its landscape. Gravity will work during portrait.
Mar 11, 2007. 10:29 PMWeissensteinburg says:
on one side* tell me if any of that doesn't make sense.
Mar 11, 2007. 11:04 PMWeissensteinburg says:
How would it spin freely? There would be a hole in the bolt, and a nail would go through bot the pipe and the bolt, so the bolt can only move from vertical to horizontal, any other tilting i would want would have to be don't by rotating the tripod, or moving the camera a bit. But I figure Ill only want portrait or landscape.
Mar 11, 2007. 11:05 PMWeissensteinburg says:
Just now - I thought of a quick release mount...how well is the cap on? If it could come off, then just pull it off :D
Mar 12, 2007. 12:19 PMWeissensteinburg says:
Oh, were there any rubber caps? Anotehr idea would be to mount a cap onto about 2 inches of larger pipe, so the you can just pull off the the top...you'll just have a bit of pipe hanging down, but it wouldn't be too bad. Sometime in the next few days Ill be going to home depot to get this stuff. In the mean time, I need to think about what to use for a padded grip, and what to use for a loop to hang down and go around the wrist.
Mar 12, 2007. 8:10 PMWeissensteinburg says:
A shoelace is a good idea, I think i'll do that. And I was thinking id take an old shirt and tape it on with electrical tape (for looks) as a grip, so pretty much the same thing.
Mar 12, 2007. 1:32 AMmzungu says:

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Author:c4l3b
married, 2 kids, 2 businesess. no time.