Step 2: Build Control Box

Take your electrical box, and cut out the openings for the Old Work receptacle boxes on each side Be sure to check for room for all of the components (relay, wall wart, and wires) in addition to the switch covers in relation to the lid when laying out where to cut these openings!!!

Drill holes for the 110v AC power in and the 12v DC out. Be sure to try and closely match your holes for the wire to your wire size. I removed a power connection from an old/dead PC power supply by opening the power supply and unscrewing / desoldering it and installing it into the main control box so I could use PC Power supply power cords for my AC in connection.

Be SURE you are routing the 12v DC through the floor pad and NOT the 110v AC! We don't want to see you electrocute your pooch after all. :)

If adding the optional power/light switches, you'll need to also wire those up (some knowledge of how to wire these up will be required and is an advanced configuration)

Solder your 110v AC in up to your relay. A schematic should be imprinted on the relay itself, but if in doubt break out the multimeter with continuity tester and verify / identify what each of the 8 terminals are. Most likely you will want to connect to third row of pins. You can test your relay also by connecting the 12v DC wire ends / leads to the relay's vertical terminals. You should see the relay make the connection/disconnect as you apply / remove the 12v DC.
<p>I am going to have to build one of these. My Mom has Samoyed and they love their fans but like you said 24/7 is annoying.. It just so happens that a supplier sent a 110v relay by mistake for the 12v one I ordered... </p>
I live in the Mojave desert North of Edwards AFB and I had a siberian husky named Opal. In the summer it would get 110F+ and in the winter it would get 10F- with winds that would blow 30 to 50 knots on a bad day. Every spring I would take Opal to town for her annual check up and haircut. They left the tail and face alone. By the time it got cold again the fur would be full and fluffy again and she would be right back in her favorite sleeping depression all winter night with out any damage. The shorter fur made it a little more comfy for her in the summer because I had an exhaust fan blowing out the air under the home toward her and we would confine our bike/runs on the dirt roads for early AM or late afternoon, depending upon my work schedule. It also solved the &quot;blowout&quot; everywhere problem.
Cool project. Hope the heat is not too hard on what looks to be a breed ment for snow. Maybe in the summer add a copper coil of running icewater on the fan for even more cooling.
Malamutes do surprisingly well in the Tejas heat so long as they have shade and fresh water. Their coats insulate both ways for heat and cold, so the same reason they do OK at -50f is the same reason they do OK at +110f. Still, they prefer to be inside in the AC with access via a dog door. We've tried other cooling devices for different prospects of providing additional cooling (Most Malamutes would pretty much prefer it to -ALWAYS- be -27f and buried to their chests in snow) but a big fan on the floor where they can lay in front of it and let the air blow up their fur the &quot;wrong way&quot; seems to have worked out best. Cool mats (or cold tile) do work tho, so if you can put on fan on a cool surface that would likely be the best option... well, again, short of burying them in snow. :)

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