Introduction: 12-Step Washer/Dryer Pedestal

So like many others, I decided to build my own washer/dryer pedestals for my new front loader washer and dryer, because the factory ones are a rediculous $600!!  Overall, the materials cost me around $150, a savings of $450!!  It's well worth it, and looks great, if you have a little time on your hands. 

The dimensions of this particular pedestal are 54" L x 26" W x 17 1/4" H.  I had to use these dimensions because the space where my washer/dryer is very small.  I also wanted the storage space underneath for laundry baskets and such.  The height from the ground to the bottom of the frame is 13", perfect for a standard laundry basket, (I actually measured one...haha!)  You can adjust ANY measurements in this project to fit your needs/space.

The materials you will need (from Home Depot) are:
(1) 3/4" MDF board cut to 54" x 26" (for top) You can get 1" plywood instead if you want to save more money, but the MDF provides a very smooth and durable finish after painting.
(6) 2x4x8 (for frame and support bracing)
(1) 4x4x8 (for legs)
(1) 1/4" 4x8 sheet of sanded plywood (for paneling on the bottom)
(1) 8 feet of corner trim (for bottom corners)
(1) 9 feet of 2 1/8" trim for front and sides (You can choose your own design and width, my wife chose an ivy vine pattern which happened to be 2 1/8")  Just be sure it's at least 1 1/2" width the cover the seam between the top board and the frame.
(1) Box of 2 inch wood screws
(8) 3 inch screws (heavy duty lag bolt style, these are to attach the legs to the frame)  I guess you could use through bolts with nuts and washers instead, but the screws seem to make it pretty sturdy. 
(1) Small box 3/4" brad nails (for trim)
(1) Wood filler
(1) Quart of paint of your choice (I chose Martha Stewart Living High Gloss interior from the Precious Metals color board in Metallic Silver)
(2) Cans spray primer (Kilz)
Small paintbush and smooth roller
220 and 400 grit 1/4 sheet sand paper for palm sander
Tack cloth
Standard carpentry tools: Circular saw, compound miter saw, palm sander, hammer, nail punch, drill, drill bits, measuring tape, triangle, yard stick, pencil etc etc, use what you need to get the job done...:)

Safety Precautions:  ALWAYS wear the proper safety equipment using power tools.  Please wear safety glasses or goggles using a circular saw, and a dust mask while using a sander.   

NOTE: ALL MEASUREMENTS CAN BE ADJUSTED TO MEET YOUR NEEDS.

Step 1: Building the Frame

Step 1:  Build the frame to 54" x 26" using the 2x4's.  My cuts were (2) at 54" and (5) at 23".  Countersink screws.  Determine which sides of the frame are front and back, and mark accordingly.  I chose the best looking side cosmetically for the FRONT.

Step 2: Attaching the Top

Step 2:  Attach the MDF/plywood TOP using the 2" wood screws, making sure you countersink and pre-drill pilot holes.  Also make sure your countersink bit is nice and sharp because MDF board is very dense and tough.

Step 3: Attaching the Legs

Step 3:  Flip frame over with TOP down.  Precut four 16 1/2" legs from the 4x4,  Attach legs using four 2 inch screws and two 3 inch lag bolts per leg to each inside corner of the frame.  See pics for configuration of legs and screw locations.  Be sure to pre-drill pilot holes for this step, to prevent the wood from splitting.  If you would like, you can probably add some "L" brackets to the inside of the legs for extra support.  Just be sure to attach the brackets to the FRAME and not the MDF top.

Step 4: Add Bracing and Bottom Paneling Anchor Points

Step 4:  Add 2x4 support braces in between each leg on the sides and back.  You will add these on the top (just under the frame) and bottom (even with the ground), in between the legs on the sides and the back.  See pics for locations noted.  You will have to measure between the legs to get your lengths.  My cuts were (2) 44" and (4) 15 1/2".  These will also serve as anchoring points for your bottom paneling.  Notice the 4"x4" blocks I used to attach the bracing.

Step 5: Attach Front and Side Trim

Step 5:  Measure, cut and attach the 2 1/8" front and side trim using 3/4" brad nails.  Countersink nails using nail punch.

Step 6: Bottom Paneling Added

Step 6:  Measure, cut and install 1/4" paneling to enclose the bottom legs using 3/4" brad nails.  The cuts I made were 51"x13", 44"x13", (2) 23"x13", (2) 19"x13".  Please measure your project before making cuts, as some of you may have different dimensions.

Step 7: Corner Trim Added

Step 7:  Measure, cut and install corner trim using 3/4" brad nails. I cut 6 pieces, all 13" in length.  I recommend pre-drilling pilot holes to prevent cracking (lesson learned) using a very small drill bit.  Countersink nails using nail punch.

Step 8: Using Wood Filler

Step 8:  Fill all screw holes, nail holes and imperfections using the wood filler. Let dry for a couple hours, or use a box fan to speed up the process, as I did.

Step 9: Sanding

Step 9:  Sand, sand and more sanding.  I used 220 grit on my palm sander.  Make sure every surface is smooth.  Wipe clean with tack cloth, and if you really want it clean and dust free, pour some denatured alcohol on a lint free rag and wipe the entire project down.

Step 10: Spray Primer

Step 10:  Apply 2 coats of Kilz spray primer, letting it dry for 30 minutes in between.

Step 11: Light Sanding Before Applying Paint

Step 11:  VERY LIGHTLY sand the primered surface with 400 grit sand paper, if using a palm sander, DO NOT apply any pressure, just let the sander's weight glide across the surfaces.  Wipe the entire project down one last time using tack cloth and denatured alcohol.  This will give it a very very smooth surface for painting.

Step 12: Painting

Step 12:  Paint with your choice of color and/or texture.  Apply a very light coat at first, let dry for 30 minutes, then apply a 2nd slightly heavier coat, let dry for 1 hour, then finally, a 3rd coat, let dry for 24 hours and you should have a very durable, smooth finish!

Comments

author
jeff.mckinney.1238 (author)2014-10-29

I just completed my pedestal a few days ago, turned out great! I modified the design a little and added casters on the legs for easy movement. Thanks for posting your excellent plans usaOastie!

author

WHY CASTERS?

Not as if this is something you will need to move about. I don't think I've moved my washer or dryer in the past six years!

However, look to those plastic slider things from HFT (Cheapest) as they are waterproof, rust proof and add some vibration dampening. Unless you use Steel wheels, you can expect the caster wheels to deform - develop a flat spot) on the bottom that will impeded the operation - moving them!

author

My washer and dryer are located in my basement, the floor sometimes gets wet. A couple of years back, we had a flood and I had several inches of water there. Didn't want the wood contacting the floor where it could get wet, casters solved the problem and makes for easy moving, rare as that may be.

author
daabs (author)jeff.mckinney.12382015-02-17

Great idea on adding casters to the pedestal. What size of caster wheels did you use? Did you add a middle caster on the back support wall? Have you noticed any movement of the pedestal since you put casters on the platform? Thanks.

author
jeff.mckinney.1238 (author)daabs2015-02-18

I used 4, 3 1/2" casters, two of which can be locked. One of the design changes I made was removing the back support wall and adding more support bracing within the top frame. The locking casters prevent the pedestal from "walking", but there is some shaking when the washer is running, likely due to the small surface area in contact with the floor. I also added some molding around the top edge just in case the washer starts moving. As long as the washer is level, the movement shouldn't be too bad.

author
charlessenf-gm (author)2017-03-17

Nice work.

How did you get the washer up onto the stand?

Many helpers? Seriously interested.

Couple of thoughts:

Notching 4x4 verticals so they fit under as well as on the sides of the 2x4's supporting the top and placing another at the center rear will increase load bearing and stability.

Painting Pressure-treated wood (before it has aged and completely dried out) is NOT a good idea.

Placing end-grain (4x4's) in contact with an area subject to moisture is not a good idea - best seal those 'feet' with something to be safe.

author
usc0astie (author)charlessenf-gm2017-03-17

I had help for sure setting the units in place. As far as your suggestions, they are all great and would surely make an already great piece even better, so thank you! I've since sold my house and this unit stayed with the house but at the time it was going on 5 years now with the original piece and it still looks great and is holding strong! The new owners loved it as well!

author
justinlenhart made it! (author)2016-01-24

Just finished today. Thanks for the plans and inspiration.

image.jpeg
author
usc0astie (author)justinlenhart2017-03-17

And it looks fantastic! Going on 5 years and 1 move now and still holding strong!

author
JohnC26 (author)2014-12-29

Any thoughts on on what to do if the floor under the washer/dryer is a little uneven?

Thanks for a great solution to this laundry problem!

author
charlessenf-gm (author)JohnC262017-03-17

Plastic Shims, aluminum shims

author
usc0astie (author)JohnC262015-03-11

Sorry to take so long to respond, been a little busy as of late. Maybe add some adjustable casters if the floor is uneven.

author
DavidR37 (author)2015-02-10

Hi, and thanks for plan. Question on step 4 adding braces you put you cut (2) 44" and (4) 15 1/2". Why two 44"? And why four at 15 1/2"? I only see one brace on the back 4x4 on the floor and one on each side of the back to front 4x4 on the floor. Do you have on the top flushed to the MDF board for the 4x4's? I only see the use of (1) 44"and (2) 15 1 Can you tell me what I'm missing?

Thanks!

author
charlessenf-gm (author)DavidR372017-03-17

"...the MDF board..."

I missed that one. SEAL all surfaces of MDF when using MDF in a damp area.

MDF is a sponge.

author
usc0astie (author)DavidR372015-03-11

Yes there are two 44 in braces for top and bottom in the back, and two 15 in braces on top and bottom, both on the left and right sides.

author
ballengerm (author)2015-03-18

This is a beautiful piece of furniture but is a tank! How much does it weigh? One 4x4 should be able to handle at least 7000 lbs in compression!

https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculator...

Shouldn't it be possible to build a much lighter pedestal out of 2x4s and still maintain a large safety factor?

author

"...possible to build a much lighter pedestal out of 2x4s..."

Well, anything is possible. You can use a torsion box approach using 1x1's to create extremely strong panels that could be joined with 'box joints' along the edges (a bit tricky to pull off) to create a four surface 'box' that wood work ;) Although I would 'tie' the bottom fronts together with a flat steel or aluminum bar stock to keep the bottom front from splaying outward.

author
(author)2016-01-12

Has anyone thought to make these double the height? So would fit 6 baskets underneath. What concerns would you have?

author
charlessenf-gm (author)2017-03-17

As you increase the height - not a bad idea- you increase the instability potential geometrically. Maybe 6x6 vertical supports with 2x6 set in along sides and read supports halfway up the supports. Use seasoned (dry) material and bolts and exterior wood glue to hold it all together. Remember - lots of weight and plenty of vibration to stress the structure.

Keep in mid the position of the controls and the height of the person responsible for 'doing the laundry!

author
usc0astie (author)2016-01-12

You would have to double the 4x4 lengths and maybe add a shelf. My only concern would be the pedestal would maybe become top heavy.

author
RonnieB35 (author)2017-02-23

Well done sir. I may use your plans and make a stand for our newly acquired front loaders. Thanks for sharing !

author
BullMO (author)2015-06-26

Great plans! Been planning on making one for my wife. Did you do anything to keep the Washer/Dryer in place? Didn't know if you made little "cups" where the appliance sets into.

Thanks again.

author
IsaiahS9 (author)BullMO2016-04-19

I am wondering the same thing, I live in a mobile home temporaily and I am sure ir is unleveel, just wondering if you can use the feet or if it calls for something else??

author
bmckenna1982 (author)2013-03-20

How did you attach the braces with the 4"x4" blocks in step 4?

author
usc0astie (author)bmckenna19822013-03-20

I used 2 inch wood screws, 2 into the brace and block from the bottom, then 2 more into the block and legs on top.

author
usc0astie (author)bmckenna19822013-03-20

I used 3 inch screws to attach the bracing to the 4x4 blocks from the bottom. Then used same size screws to attach the blocks to the legs.

author
jbrecken (author)2012-01-11

You don't need any kind of special treatment on the wood under the dryer to handle the high temperatures?

author
usc0astie (author)jbrecken2012-01-11

No you don't need to treat the wood. Most dryers built today are very well insulated and retain almost all heat on the interior of the dryer.

author
knife141 (author)2012-01-10

Excellent project! Great idea -- looks better than the commercial pedestals and at a substantially reduced cost. Thanks for posting this.

author
mikeasaurus (author)2012-01-09

This project hits so many good points; elevated W/D's provide: storage underneath, can reduce noise transmission, and are better situated if there's ever a leak.
Thanks for sharing your project, it looks great!

author
usc0astie (author)2012-01-09

I apologize for the lack of detailed pictures. I wasn't originally going to post this to Instructables, but decided to do so after discovering this website, AFTER I finished to project. What a GREAT website! My next project will have much better pictures showing every detail. Thanks and enjoy! If you have any questions, just leave a comment and I'll do my best to answer them.

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