Introduction: 12 Volt Battery Generator

Picture of 12 Volt Battery Generator

Inexpensive 12 volt back-up battery generator that is not hard to make. It will power what counts if the power goes out! Note:

You must have a working knowledge of electricity and electrical circuits to do this project otherwise you could really hurt yourself.

I've powered space heaters, refrigerators, televisions, fans, washing machines, lights. You name it and this will most likely power it including small ac units. The small mini fridge seen here has been running for 25 hours now with plenty of battery power remaining to run more stuff. You can take this to your remote cabin and be completely off grid. See my other instuctables for the foldable lightweight solar panels that compliment this generator nicely!


1. 60 ft of 3-1/2 in by 1-3/4 in board.

2. Box of wood screws 1-1/2 inches long

3. 1500 watt power inverter (pure sine wave inverter recommended)

4. Solar charge controller

5. Battery meter (I have two on this)

6. Toggle switch

7. DC power outlet

8. Two hinges

9. Two clasps

10 Four battery cables

11. Plenty of wiring and a handful of alligator clamps big enough to clamp to batteries. Also other wire connectors and electrical tape. Amounts will vary depending on how you set it all up.

12. Four heavy duty castor wheels

13. Drill with up to a half inch drill bit. You'll probably want some smaller ones to.

14 Door knob drill kit (2 inch) for the round battery meter. Yours may be a different size?

Step 1: Wood Needed

1. You'll need 60 feet of cheap wood that is 3-1/2 in by 1-3/4 in.

2. Cut 9 pieces 26 inches long

3. Cut 7 pieces 17-1/2 inches long

4. Cut 22 pieces 12 inches long

5. Cut 4 pieces 16 inches long

6. Cut 2 pieces 15 inches long

7. Extra pieces of any kind of wood like (2x4) to brace the batteries inside the box.

Step 2: Constructing the Box

Picture of Constructing the Box

Hopefully this picture explains how the box goes together (at least the end result)

1. Start with building the four sides.

a. connect seven 12 inch boards (no space in between) with a 26 inch top and bottom piece. Center the 26 inch boards which should leave roughly 3/4 of an inch on both ends. Repeat this step again. Use the screws but pre-drill all your holes first.

b. connect 4, 12 inch boards with the 16 inch top and bottom pieces. Repeat this again. Again make sure the top and bottom pieces are centered which will leave you with roughly 3/4 inches on both ends. Remember to pre-drill all your holes first.

c. Connect all four sides now.

2. Use all seven of the 17-1/2 inch boards and screw them in the bottom of the box. Space them out so they go from end to end with no left over space.

3. Use the remaining 5, 26 inch pieces to build the top. Lay them flat with no space in between the boards and screw the two 15 inch pieces down opposite direction on top of the boards.

4. Hinge the top to the box.

5. attach clasps to the front to lock the lid down.

6. Flip the box over and screw the castor wheels to the bottom of the box.

Box is done. (Tires were a later addition).

Step 3: Connect the Power Inverter

Picture of Connect the Power Inverter

1. Chose the exact location where you want your inverter to be and leave enough room to drill holes for the positive and negative cables behind the inverter.

2. Drill two holes behind the inverter using the 1/2 inch drill bit.

3. screw the inverter to the top, connect the cables to the inverter and run the cables down through the two holes.

4. Once batteries are in the box you can connect the cables to the batteries.

Step 4: Connecting the Solar Charge Controller

Picture of Connecting the Solar Charge Controller

1. Choose the exact placement of your charge controller and again screw it down and drill holes behind it to run the wires down through the top. When the batteries are in the box, you can connect the battery wires from the charge controller to the batteries.

Step 5: Adding the Battery Meter and Toggle Switch

Picture of Adding the Battery Meter and Toggle Switch

1. Again, find a good convenient spot to attach the toggle switch, some place close to where the battery meter will be. Drill a small hole next to where the toggle switch will be to run the wires down through.

2. Attach your battery meter where you want and then connect it to the toggle switch and battery. You have to have a basic knowledge of electrical to accomplish this. Mine is set up so that I have to switch on the battery meter to see the battery level. I can turn it off or leave it on.

3. If you use a round battery meter like I have on mine, you'll need to drill a hole with the 2 inch door knob drill bit like I did in order to seat it down nicely in the wood. Looks really cool to do it.

Step 6: Adding the LED Light

Picture of Adding the LED Light

This is completely up to you what you use but I recycled some fish tank led lights and an old ipod case to create this light. It's taped to an old GPS suction cup holder with directional capability. It's really bright!

Step 7: Adding the Batteries

Picture of Adding the Batteries

I used two MK 74 AH Wheelchair batteries. Found a heck of a deal on Craigs List. Just make sure you use 12 volt deep cycle batteries. There's room for one more in there I think but for now this will do. Connect them in parallel. Attach all your gadgets to the batteries via alligator clamps or how ever you do it.

Brace the batteries in place with extra wood so they don't slide around when you move the box.

I use the homemade solar panels and extension cord you see to charge the generator when I can but I also have a 12 volt battery charger that I use when the sun doesn't shine. The panels I have here equal roughly 100+ watts of charging power on a sunny day. I get about 5-6 amps out of the panels.

I hope you like this instructable. Let me know what you think.

Step 8:


arifa15 (author)2015-10-08

all the ingredients

brightled (author)2015-10-04

hello, The idea is great, however the way you carried it out needs a lot of improvement...1 put the batteries in separate battery boxes. 2 you need an internal sealed fan to blow in fresh air and additional vent holes to remove any gases generated from charging. This is a safety issue as the gas is explosive. 3 The wiring harness needs much improvement. 4 Never Ever charge large batteries like the ones you are using indoors sealed or not.....Walter Hynson

Poppy Ann (author)brightled2015-10-07

I take it you have never worked on large battery powered machines Walter Hynson, I have worked on battery powered cherry pickers along with many other battery powered machines and none of them tell you to take them outdoors to charge them the amount of gas output from sealed lead acid batteries is almost nothing there is a little from standard lead acid batteries if you charge them fast but as long as you follow the makers specifications for charging then you will have little problems with the gas if you tried it in a small sealed cupboard then if you tried lighting a match next to the floor then you may have a problem.

In all my years (38) of working with battery powered machines I have never heard of any problem with charging them indoors unless some one tries over charging them then it is their own fault.

regards Poppy Ann.

itsmescotty (author)Poppy Ann2015-10-07

oops, "lighting a match next to the floor then you may have a problem". Hydrogen goes up, Poppy - you knew that.

Shame about your body going south, mine's headed that way as well. Not holding my breath for Obama health care.

Large enough alternator can be used as a stick or TIG welder with a few modifications. Repaired lots of SS stanchions and rigging 'in the wild'.

Am thinking back to when I was in submarines - do they qualify as "indoors"?

Med can get cold but doesn't have tropical storms! Red Sea was difficult to navigate celestially because haze obscured the horizon and it was before GPS. Had Walker sat nav in Med but kinda useless - took HOURS to compute and sometimes would only get one fix per day AND was a serious drain on battery.

My boat (long story) was confiscated by Cypriot government and sold at "auction" when I came back to the states for a bit. $150,000 boat flogged for $2,500 and I was PNG. Sigh

Poppy Ann (author)itsmescotty2015-10-08

Hi again,

don't know what I was thinking about re gas but I blame it on my brain slowing down with age(62 now) I was lucky with gps when i started out cruising I fitted a nice 10" plotter on the boat it was only black and white as I could not afford a colour one at the time at the moment it has a 10" colour one along with a 15" combination plotter and radar which is connected up to my autopilot if I had had a self tending head sail I could sail without doing anything once the sails were set but even the way I had it all I had to do was get ready to tack when the plotter bleeped and as the auto pilot turned the boat I just released the head sail when it started flapping and pulled it in on the other side as tight as I could then once the boat was all the way through just a slight trim and I was set until the next tack I can set the plotter to sail within set lines so I knew I could just lay back and let it sail itself when I had a long way to go which was great as I was single handing for most of my time out there, its a pity I came back but it is too late to do anything about it now, all I can do is think of the good times I had which were 10 years on board.

regards Poppy Ann.

I liked it. As an experienced seaman I can tell you, you need not concern yourself too much using this indoors (as long as it's a fresh, well ventilated area. Those are sealed gel batteries as well, so, they are very safe, can be used in any position. They should have a valve for hidrogen/acid discharge, which if it ever happens, it should be minimal. Yes, orderly routing the cables looks better, but who am I to criticize. Safety first, always. Fuse your connections. When you see things like this: you know it took a long time and effort to make it so.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the expertise

I liked it. As an experienced seaman I can tell you, you need not concern yourself too much using this indoors (as long as it's a fresh, well ventilated area. Those are sealed gel batteries as well, so, they are very safe, can be used in any position. They should have a valve for hidrogen/acid discharge, which if it ever happens, it should be minimal. Yes, orderly routing the cables looks better, but who am I to criticize. Safety first, always. Fuse your connections. When you see things like this: you know it took a long time and effort to make it so.

BenF15 (author)brightled2015-10-04

If you where using conventional lead acid batterys yes you would need a vent, however since he is using sealed gell cell batterys from a wheelchair, or if they where any type of sealed non lead acid battery you are fine, hence why you you can recharge your wheelchair in the house. Otherwise hydrogen is released when a heavy charge is put on lead acid batterys. Also no need for battey boxes for the batterys he is useing.

Solaron (author)brightled2015-10-04

Much appreciated information. thank you.

Poppy Ann (author)2015-10-04

did you forget to include Batteries in your supplies list? (lol)

this is just the same as I have on my sail boat except for the batteries as I went for 6 x 6 volt golf cart batteries wired as 2 series 3 parallel which gave me 750 amp hours in total but as I never drag my batteries down below half discharge to protect the batteries also I have 2 x 300 watt solar panels plus one wind generator and with these whilst living full time on the boat I only had to run my generator once a week to give it the batteries a top up and I run a desk top computer 24/7 plus a large fridge/freezer plus lights and fans as required (the fans run around 12 hours a day (boat is in the Caribbean)) but with the way some places get stuck with loss of power this is a good instructable, well done.

itsmescotty (author)Poppy Ann2015-10-05

similar to the setup I had on my sailboat but with only two banks. Have you considered battery isolation switches or diodes to protect the batteries from themselves? Should a battery go bad it can drag all the other batteries with it - happened to me. I dispensed with the wind generator, too bulky, too much vibration and I didn't like the swiveling propeller on a 12m boat.

Poppy Ann (author)itsmescotty2015-10-06

Hi there, my boat is 12 meter as well it is a ketch rigged Hughs North Star the wind generator is up the mizzen mast around 30 foot so not safety problems also I balanced the blades before I fitted it and the only time I had any vibration is if it gets above 30 knots I get a small amount of vibration which I like as I use it as a warning when I am in bed to get up and check the anchor.

I have 2 battery banks but one of them is just for engine starting I have a parallel switch for when I make a mistake and I need a extra boost for starting I fitted the engine with a 60 amp alternator for when everything else fails then I can still charge from my engine.

regards Poppy Ann.

itsmescotty (author)Poppy Ann2015-10-06

Caio Poppy

Mine was a cold molded schooner. Wasn't all that keen about elevating the wg. Sailed Indian Ocean, East Africa , Red Sea and Med. 80 amp on engine but 4l/hour was spendy so I mounted a 60 amp alternator onto a 2hp engine. Ran for hours on a liter at idle and did a wonderful job charging - simply rev up engine until the alternator is excited and drop to idle. Quiet, compact and efficient. Didn't have economical photocells in the 80s and I had forever sun.

Poppy Ann (author)itsmescotty2015-10-07

Hi Scotty, my boat is still in Puerto Rico where I left it 3 years ago I was hoping to return to it after 6 months when I returned to England as I was hoping that the local hospital would be fixing my knees and right hip which they had told me several years earlier that they were worn out and needed replacing but when I went back they now do not want to do the work as they do not want to give me a general anaesthetic and can not give me a epidural due to the damage in my back so I am stuck as when I left the boat I was having trouble living on the boat and now I have deteriorated further so most likely I will have to sell it off but with the way the market is I would get nothing back on what I paid for it.

I forgot to add that I had had 2 of the Honda 2000 watt generators which I bought when I was building solid hand rails and davits to the rear out of 2" aluminium tube I needed two of them to power the welder as one was to small but the beauty with the Honda silent generators is that you can plug them into each other to get a higher output and they use almost no fuel when I ran them to charge the batteries they just reduce the rev's to balance the output to what is needed so no messing about by me. it sounds like you had a nice area to sail I had first planed to go to the Med until I found out that it got cold in winter so quickly changed to the Caribbean.

regards Poppy Ann.

Solaron (author)Poppy Ann2015-10-05

I have amp envy! Sounds like you have plenty of power to do with what you need. I hope to have more batteries someday soon. The Caribbean huh!, some people have all the fun and thanks for liking my generator.

Awesome, the solar panels..

Looks alot like the setup I have in the van.

of mono christaline solar cells into 2 deep cycle wheelchair batteries
and a block of 20 7ah SLA cells keep my computer going most days and all
through the night.

Batteries are second hand and one is officially 'dud' but im not to concerned.

provides more power than I can use in good sun and the Steca controller
cant cut them off properly so I have manual switches on them also.I
need more batteries. In NZ these 25w panels are $20 each, I have 8 of

A suggestion is to double the number of solar you think you
need to cope for winter days and double the batteries also. Three
batteries is a good size for me.

Go MPPT controller and off days will be better.

enough the Solar panels I have work better on cloudy days, with the
wispy white clouds the sun is diffused and 'blooms', my panels love it.
12-14a max charge I have seen on 200w, 8a plus on 100w into 13v, thats
more than rated output. This was is during winter, at 42 south latitude.

Power output increases if they point (near) directly at the sun, think of this and optimize placement for winter time.

Hey thanks for the reply. NZ? Wow! Yep, I got an MPPT controller just the other day to put on "Wattsun", that's the wooden box, I named it :). So, did you have an interest in solar and batteries before outfitting your van or did it come about through necessity? Just curious because my interest sparked from me needing lights in my tool shed almost four years ago.

As far as solar panels go, I'm about to post a new Ible on how to make a tri-fold 120 watt gun case solar panel so look for it here in the next few days. Basically, I recycled an old rifle case into an amazing solar panel that is very portable and weather proof. I really just want to show it off but there may be someone out there that can use the idea, who knows.

I actually have many solar panel projects lying around the house that I just don't use, no need really, but I can't stop making different style ones. Sounds like you're doing missionary work over there? Keep up the good work.

Should mention I have played with wind turbines too, power wise they are great and I do want one on the van for night charging, but they are also large and cumbersome.

Cant beat solar now, used to $10/w but now is around $1/w.

Solar is taking off over here now after the quakes all new houses need some form of solar collectors, passive water heating is the goods.

I have an interest in electric vehicles dating back to the late 70's early 80's as the school my father taught at won a competition for their build, looks like a scaled down Honda city and had a serial 125cc bike engine/generator for power.

Im roughing it over here, almost like its the end of the world.
Did my degree parked up on horse paddocks with 60w of solar which gave about 40w performance.

This van is 'under construction' and I hope your wiring is better than mine, but its kept me going for 4 years now.

Best to plan before starting, living in it and working on it is hard to do.

I guess its a lifestyle choice.

'wattsun' is a great name, my panel company is

Re the foldout, I have a case similar but its a gutted foldaway picnic table, it gives people the 9's.

Solaron (author)Solaron2015-10-06

I saw Christchurch and thought missionary, my bad :)

MimkeD234 (author)2015-10-05

Approximately how much would this project cost to build (if everything needed to be bought)?

Solaron (author)MimkeD2342015-10-05

Hey MimkeD234

We'll, It's going to vary quite a bit from person to person especially if you pick up some used but good batteries really cheap, but if not and you mimic what I have here, you can plan on spending anywhere from $900 to $1000. The batteries I have in here cost over $200 each new and I got them both for a total of $100. Save money by using less expensive deep cycle batteries. The inverter is probably less expensive now too but when I bought it I paid around $300 for it. If you already have enough wood around in the garage then even more savings. It all depends. Hope this helps.

rusty2926 (author)2015-10-05

Pretty Cool! I like the idea of solar charging and using 2 batteries instead of one. Most people don't remember deep cycle batteries work best. The only glitch I can see is if it's bad weather and the sun isn't shining, it would be hard to recharge the batteries. Having a 12 volt charger helps....but only if you have a power supply to run it first! I have a 1500 watt inverter mounted in my truck under the backseat and hardwired to the battery. I'm able to use it with most of my smaller power tools even with a 50ft drop cord. I have used this setup a number of times when the power was out and the Utilities company assured me the power would be restored within a few hours. My truck doesn't use as much gas and isn't as loud as a gas generator. And I don't have to buy all the extra switches and meters and controllers and my trucks charging system keeps me charged up!

Solaron (author)rusty29262015-10-05

I did the same thing once while in Okinawa at work, during a typhoon. In my case, the idling truck wasn't enough to charge the battery fast enough for what I was using it for. I should've put a big rock on the gas pedal I guess. True about the deep cycle batteries. Is your inverter a modified or pure sine wave? I've fried a few things using a modified sine wave inverter before. Trial and error and a lot of reading on the internet I guess fixes everything eventually :) Yea, cloudy days are a problem but your right about the 12 volt battery charger. I got one and have used it many times. I live in Alaska and have a lot of trees in my yard so getting direct sun only happens in one spot for a couple hours when it's going down so you can imagine my challenges with solar. Thanks for the positive comments and take care.

blightcp (author)2015-10-05

I did a similar thing during the ice storms in new England before I put in my 8Kw Generac. I used two 27 series deep cycle in parallel with a 1000W inverter sustained. The system cost less than $400. The inverters ran my 7 amp (AC) 840W propane furnace for 4 hours before the batteries needed charging. Note: the 7 amps draw was while the blower was running and was not at 7 amp load 100% of the time.

The temp was in the 30s at the time, I kept the batteries in my basement bulkhead with HEAVY jumper cables to the car with a remote starter. Keep the run lengths to the inverter and car as short as possible and make sure that all of the cables gauge is rated for the load at a constant draw. This is especially true for jumper cables as they are not made for long term draw.

The math I came up with was:

840W / (for the 90%) efficient inverter = 933W total energy drain on battery

933W / 85% efficiency = 1098W of input from the car was needed to charge the batteries.

My car Voltage runs at about 14V with a 130 amp alternator so I ran the numbers at 100 amps for charging gives us 1400W of charging power.

In short this JUST barley works as a long term solution. But I have done it and it does work.

We then huddled around my laptop with a droplight hanging from the chandler and watched LOST on DVD.

Solaron (author)blightcp2015-10-05

Incredible blightcp, It's amazing what can be accomplished with a little ingenuity (did I spell that right?) I always thought it would be a great idea to put 120 ac outlets on trucks cars and riding lawnmowers, and extra room to add more batteries. Everyone could just plug into their riding lawn mowers and vehicles! Just a thought I had. Great story and thanks for sharing it :)

UncleEd (author)2015-10-04

>>1. You'll need 60 feet of cheap wood that is 3-1/2 in by 1-3/4 in

In the United States, since the mid-1970s, a board sold as "2 x 4" measures 3-1/2 x 1-1/2 inches. The lumber distributors will tell you the boards started at 2.0 x 4.0 inches when they came from the sawmill, and the half inch loss is due to planing off the rough surface and shrinkage while drying. I think they also expect you to believe in Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny. Those of us who knew woodworkers about 1973-4-5 heard a lot of griping, as a 2x4 had measured 3-5/8 x 1-5/8 in earlier days.

A 1x4 is now 3/4 inch thick, but still 3-1/2 wide.

itsmescotty (author)UncleEd2015-10-04

yeah but. If you've remodeled any OLD houses constructed from rough sawn wood you will see they are dimensional - 2"x4" etc. I seem to remember the time when finished lumber was a bit larger than today but I was a kid. I think particle wood and other fabricated lumber might have played a part in shaving off the extra 1/8" or it could have been simple math - who likes to deal with fractions

UncleEd (author)itsmescotty2015-10-05

I got to thinking about your "simple math" idea. Unfortunately, what I thought you were saying fell apart when I went to the online site of two USA lumber dealers who appeal to consumers.

Half inch plywood can be either 1/2 inch or 15/32. Three-quarter inch plywood can be 3/4 or 23/32. Pressure treated sheathing board sold as 23/32 is actually .703, which is about 2% smaller. Hardboard tempered panel sold as 3/16 inch x 4 feet x 8 feet is actually .155 inch x 47.7 inches x 95.7 inches.

All of this is making my head hurt.

itsmescotty (author)UncleEd2015-10-05

still standby my lumber statement. Plywood is a different beast. Purchased a dozen 3/4 sheets of oak pw for a project and couldn't us it because of the voids. Wrote a nice, nasty review and was contacted by the manufacturer who offered to replace it and give me a tour (we're talking $600 before tax). Went to the plant and did the tour. Was impressive - all the sorting of fletches and quality types. BB stores order sheets that have beautiful exteriors but don't care about the voids inside. Furniture makers require the voids to be plugged and marine use is no voids and synthetic waterproof glue. After assembly, gluing and pressing its sized and sanded. The HUGE belt sanders have digital micrometers and an inspector on each side. Then the job lot is packaged and sent out. My sheets measured 97"x 49" by a damn near perfect 3/4".

Printed on OSB and some plywoods is the actual thickness - I don't know why it's no longer the actual fraction it's sold as. Just my experience.

itsmescotty (author)UncleEd2015-10-04

I own a $20,000 sawmill and have been cutting and milling my own trees for 15 years. When I mill the lumber there are deep scores in the board on all 4 sides because it's a rip cur from a huge circular vertical blade and two horizontal blades. Take a bit of planing to get the marks out and become a beautiful piece of board. Then I air dry them and there is very little shrinkage. Have used the boards to Construct buildings and furniture.

Bob_b (author)2015-09-28

A nice project. I had been thinking about building something similar for a while. The sealed gel batteries are a good choice. A note of caution to someone building this with non sealed batteries, the kind you can add water to, be sure to provide openings in the box to prevent hydrogen buildup. Also it would be good to make a plastic tray to put the batteries in, perhaps from a cut down plastic tub, in case of an acid spill with non sealed batteries. Some baking soda in the plastic tray would neutralize any acid.

Solaron (author)Bob_b2015-09-29


Excellent points! The bottom of the box does have space between the boards to aid with venting. The pan should be an addition if anyone is going to make this along with the baking soda. Great additions to my Ible! Thank you.

ac-dc (author)Solaron2015-10-04

hydrogen is lighter than air. Holes in the bottom won't help, unless you also have gaps in the top which need not be big gaps, as the hydrogen production rate isn't much, may not happen enough to even measure if the solar cells never top off the charge. If they do top off the charge then I'd think about adding another battery to capture that.

Solaron (author)ac-dc2015-10-04

Much appreciated ac-dc. The box is by no measure, air tight. Plenty of gaps at the top and throughout to vent any hydrogen gas. Great points to consider for anyone wanting to do their own version of this.

farna (author)2015-10-04

Yeah, this is "battery backup" or an "emergency power supply", maybe even a "generator substitute" (temporary), but it's not really a generator. It's still a great project, as long as you know that the capacity is limited by charge. Try to run a small AC unit or power tools and it won't last long. A small refrigerator doesn't run continuously or draw that much power. An AC unit on a camper won't run from a 20A drop cord, you have to have 30A connection. Well, it might run from 20A with a 10 or 12 gauge drop cord, but most cords are 14 or 16 gauge, and a camper AC won't run from one of those.

ac-dc (author)farna2015-10-04

As a generic term it really is a generator since it has the solar panels which _generate_ electricity.

bigpig (author)2015-10-04

Alway has to be one of you offensive punks around to insult people.

glaunder (author)2015-10-04

Looks like a great project. I've got lots of wood from old pallets I can use. This is a great project to use the 2 deep cycle batteries from my RV in the off season. Thanks.

Solaron (author)2015-10-04

Hi LawrenceH8
I have to say though, aside from initial cost, free electricity is a great thing. it's free electricity no matter how in efficient the device may be. tech will change all of that in the future, I'm optimistic of that!

As far as green goes, your right, production of these solar cells is not yet as green as it will be in the future but again, once made, it is green green green! no emissions from a solar panel that I'm aware of.

islandsurvr (author)2015-10-04

Thanks for the instructible. Very simple and well laid out. I may try this in the foreseeable future.

Solaron (author)islandsurvr2015-10-04

I appreciate that. Thanks :)

KévinG14 (author)2015-10-01

door knob? you mean Hole-Saw?

Solaron (author)KévinG142015-10-01

yep. that's it

KévinG14 (author)2015-10-01

Could you add a Block Diagram too?

Like this but... complete. :) It would be appreciated.

zombie_bike (author)2015-09-26

Funny that you posted this now, I am in the middle of building my own version of a solar power source. Nice 'ible!

Solaron (author)zombie_bike2015-09-29

Hey, thanks zombie_bike, much appreciated!

bhavyaparameswaran (author)2015-09-29

Will it be useful for final year engineering projects???

I'd like to think so but I'd hate to steer you in the wrong direction. If you do and you get a good grade let me know :)

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