Update: I just received the 3D Print from the "Free 3D Printing" Group yesterday(Nov 3, 2012). It look a little different than I used in the tutorial because I added more parts in the 3D model file, since I got some space left to fit 3x3x3" cube.
I got a chance to play with Autodesk's 123D application. I spent sometimes to get myself familiar with 123D, and found that it was very easy to use with a lot of features that I could use to create a professional quality 3D models.
This hands-on tutorial is written for anyone who want to make 3D Print.
In this tutorials, you will learn to use 123D through a series of hands-on exercises.
After reading this tutorial, you can use 123D to visualize designs of the things that will actually be built. You will be guided through the basics of 3D manipulation in 123D, and the principal ideas involved in displaying complex 3D objects, and will be ready to create the simple objects that will get you that first 3D Printing object. You will learn how to save and export files directly from 123D program to send to fabricator, such as "Free 3D Printing" Group or anyother 3D Fabricators.
On the way, you get to do something you can see with your “looking glass”, you can create 3D parts, robots, objects and subjects of any type.
Goals
By combining (joining) small individual 3D Models together, either from the same project or from different project. We could save time and do not have to submit each part individually. And we could avoid waiting for each part to be delivered many times before using them in the project(s).
Another benefit of combining (joining) models together is that if the combined model has the size which is smaller than 3x3x3" cube, we could submit the model to "Free 3D Printing" offer to have it made if you are not in a hurry! But you need to write up an instructable and sign up as a member, to qualify.
Not only you could use this methods for "Free 3D Printing" here at instructables, but you could also apply the methods with your 3D model to be done ( but not free) at Shapeway, Ponoko, etc. (which allow you to print a larger 3d model for example a model with a footprint of 4x6", etc.)
Note: I submitted the 3D Print file as used in this tutorial to our "Free 3D Printing" Group, but it is still in the queue to be printed. I will post the picture as soon as I receive it.
I got a chance to play with Autodesk's 123D application. I spent sometimes to get myself familiar with 123D, and found that it was very easy to use with a lot of features that I could use to create a professional quality 3D models.
This hands-on tutorial is written for anyone who want to make 3D Print.
In this tutorials, you will learn to use 123D through a series of hands-on exercises.
After reading this tutorial, you can use 123D to visualize designs of the things that will actually be built. You will be guided through the basics of 3D manipulation in 123D, and the principal ideas involved in displaying complex 3D objects, and will be ready to create the simple objects that will get you that first 3D Printing object. You will learn how to save and export files directly from 123D program to send to fabricator, such as "Free 3D Printing" Group or anyother 3D Fabricators.
On the way, you get to do something you can see with your “looking glass”, you can create 3D parts, robots, objects and subjects of any type.
Goals
- Sketch/design the models.
- Getting to know the 123D application.
- Use 123D application to create various small 3D models of robot's parts, ears, eyes, shoulders and hands.
- Combine (join) these parts together into one single piece.
- Submit the model to the Instructables' "Free 3D Printing" Group, or to 3D Print fabricators.
By combining (joining) small individual 3D Models together, either from the same project or from different project. We could save time and do not have to submit each part individually. And we could avoid waiting for each part to be delivered many times before using them in the project(s).
Another benefit of combining (joining) models together is that if the combined model has the size which is smaller than 3x3x3" cube, we could submit the model to "Free 3D Printing" offer to have it made if you are not in a hurry! But you need to write up an instructable and sign up as a member, to qualify.
Not only you could use this methods for "Free 3D Printing" here at instructables, but you could also apply the methods with your 3D model to be done ( but not free) at Shapeway, Ponoko, etc. (which allow you to print a larger 3d model for example a model with a footprint of 4x6", etc.)
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Signing UpStep 1: Rough Sketches
The Designs
I designed the ears, eyes, shoulders, and hands for my robot project, Put 40 LEDs and Brain into Robot Head.
All the parts are only decorative pieces for the robot, only the eyes that I may want to put the 5mm diameter LEDs inside.
And the parts will be fit into the round existing openning, for example eyes will be fit in 10 mm diameter openning, and ears will be fit in 20 mm diameter openning. And both shoulders and hand will be fitting into round Acrylic tubing with 1" (25.4mm) OD (Outside Diameter) and 7/8" (22.225mm) ID (Inside Diameter) . So the designs will somehow have the round plug attached to one end, as shown in the sketches below.
The Sketches
When I was working on the new project, I usually transfer the idea I had in mind into the paper. Sometimes I only doodling on the napkin, just like other designer/inventor did!
Later I would refined the napkin sketches to realizable design and something that make sense. The other consideration is that the design should compliment the existing object.
Sketches below (no. 1, 2, and 3) are not really "napkin sketches", they were refined sketches. At this stage all the dimensions are in Millimeter.
I designed the ears, eyes, shoulders, and hands for my robot project, Put 40 LEDs and Brain into Robot Head.
All the parts are only decorative pieces for the robot, only the eyes that I may want to put the 5mm diameter LEDs inside.
And the parts will be fit into the round existing openning, for example eyes will be fit in 10 mm diameter openning, and ears will be fit in 20 mm diameter openning. And both shoulders and hand will be fitting into round Acrylic tubing with 1" (25.4mm) OD (Outside Diameter) and 7/8" (22.225mm) ID (Inside Diameter) . So the designs will somehow have the round plug attached to one end, as shown in the sketches below.
The Sketches
When I was working on the new project, I usually transfer the idea I had in mind into the paper. Sometimes I only doodling on the napkin, just like other designer/inventor did!
Later I would refined the napkin sketches to realizable design and something that make sense. The other consideration is that the design should compliment the existing object.
Sketches below (no. 1, 2, and 3) are not really "napkin sketches", they were refined sketches. At this stage all the dimensions are in Millimeter.
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Also, when submitting a model for a Instructables free print, can you recommend a minimum distance that the parts should be from each other? I'm assuming that if the parts are to close together they are difficult to clean well. Maybe this picture can explain what I'm asking.
Thanks in advance champ.
May be I got used to do stuff start from 0,0,0 or the habit of using absolute coordinate instead of relative! (This habit might have started since I used the drafting table to draw stuff! :P)
I think it would be a lot easier to explain or show others in this instructable to draw stuff starting from origin(absolute) and then move thing around (relative) to the origin (0,0,0).
One other reasons was built 3d model base on origin, i,e center of the object at 0,0,0, would make your colleague life's a lot easier, because he/she could load your model(s) up in their (large) 3d scene knowing that your model will be there at 0,0,0 and not any where else. Then they can move it to the location it supposed to be later.
For the minimum distance, I use this minimum wall thickness chart from Ponoko's materials comparison chart
( http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/show-comparison ) which vary between 1 mm to 3 mm., plus the thickness of the cutting tool that I'm using to cut e.g Xacto knife, saw, etc. The gap should be large enough to insert your cutting tool in and have some space to allow the tool to operate freely without scratching the surface.
Hope this help.
I don't know what to tell you! For the free 3D modeling app, Sketch up, Blender, and 123D, I only use 123D as my second choice 3D app. (I normally use 3DS Max) and I quite like it very much.
I would recommend. You can make a 3D model from photos of the object. You can check it out here. http://www.123dapp.com/catch
Thank you very much for the link, I do really appreaciated!
Things seem to come around, go around with the Brazil Connection. Once I was interviewed by the magazine "Super Interresante" from Brazil.
Here is the cover and my picture in the article.
http://faz-voce-mesmo.blogspot.pt/2012/10/noticias-e-instructables.html
As for being Windows only, there's Wine, the better-than-emulator, that runs Windows stuff, without the ugly Win-doze OS! :)
May be Autodesk would release the Full version in all Linux, Mac OS, and Windows platforms, we'll never know, right?
BTW, I like your robot gadget.
Thanks.
Don't be scared or get intimidated by the amount of images or steps of the tutorial.
The steps take you through the processes that you do them repeatedly. And after you are done with it, you became an "Expert"!
sath02
"don't finish your canvas with white paint"
The Sign In icon, located at the top right hand corner of the screen.
My work flow was completely jacked and my last print was a mess (I had parts fused to other parts when I wanted them to break away separately.) Now I understand why and how to do it right next time :p
I'm so glad that it is useful for you!