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+First Of All , This Instructables had been written By an 16 years old guy...... Not A English Professor , So Please Inform any grammatical Mistake Before Making Fun Of me. :p

+Any Of The improvements will be appreciated, either in this instructable or in the Project

+Caution- This machine works on high temperatures(up to 110 deg Celsius ) , be safe and also stick safety stickers if you find some. +Click the heart, to add as favorite,spread the love, and to appreciate.

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Tired of Bubbling of your ABS Filament ?...... this is The Perfect Solution For Your Problem.
For This we need to heat the filament to minimum 80.9*C so That gases and moisture can Escape...For which We'll Be using a Resistor As a Heater.

After Searching a lot I Got an Article. from forums.Reprap.org which has a post by A2 . Please See to It On The Next step.

Step 1: The ABS

ABS, (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, Type: extruded):

Drying Temperature:Range: 70°C to 93.3°C, (158ºF to 200ºF).Average: 80.9°C,(178ºF ).

Glass-transition temp: Range: 108°C to 109°C.Average: 108°C, (226.4ºF ).Wikipedia: 105°C, (221ºF )

.Begin testing around this temp:Substrate/bed temperature: <105°C, (221ºF ).

Enclosure temperature: <105°C, (221ºF ).

Material properties are generally stable between:−20 and 80 °C (−4 and 176 °F).

Linear Mold Shrinkage (extruded):0.002 – 0.008 cm/cm.

Average value: 0.00532 cm/cm.

Machine parameters:Extrude temp (RepRap): 210 C ~ 240 C

(Post By A2 , Forums.reprap.org)

So we Need A Heater to Go at 80.9*C So we used a 50E 20W Resistor For that. which Can Go 86.3*C in 30- 40 Seconds Or in the meantime the extruder heats before Printing.

Lets Browse The bill of materials.

Step 2: Bill of Materials

1 X 4mm to 4mm Pneumatic Union.

1 X M6 to 4mm Pneumatic fitting.

10 - 8 Cm (4mm OD, 2mm ID) Pneumatic or PTFE Tubing.

An LED.

1 or 2 50E 20W Resistor.

1 X 10k 1/4 W Resistor

some 24W wires Or Compatible ones.

Some Cotton.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Connect tubing to M6 to 4mm.

2. Insert the tubing inside the resistor with some cotton. to lock the pipe inside.

3. connect the union to other side.

4. connect the M6 side to your extruder.

5. Connect the 4mm side to your bowden PTFE.

6. Insert Filament in the extruder.

7. assemble the circuit from next step.

Step 4: The Circuit.

Make the circuit as follow....
Remember to connect to extruder pin rather than direct supply.
Insulate using some tape.
And you're done......

Step 5: Enjoy.

Support By Clicking the heart and adding to your favorite.
Thanks A lot

Any of the product improvement and Correction will be appreciated.
reach me through instructables or by Gmail - By Google.

Step 6: Updates.

************************************************6/5/2016******************************************************

Added Holes to double assure gases can escape. as indirectly suggested by "Jean-BaptisteP" . (Thanks Brother).
Drill two 2 mm Holes through the union exactly in the middle, as in the pictures. And remember to keep the union part a bit(1 - 1.5 cm) elevated than the heater.

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<p>Is the resistor E50 the size of the resistor or the ohms of the resistor.</p>
<p>ummmmm........... correct brother..... but it still works....... i think gases escape from the extruder's M6 Hole......but to double ensure......that gases escape and do not damage filament again..... i'll be updating the debubbler</p>
<p>Well, I am not sure about the results here, as moisture and air cannot escape the whole tubing. </p><p>The ABS gets pre-heated yes, but where are all the &quot;gases and moisture&quot; going ?</p><p>Drying a whole spool in a dehydrator or an oven make sense because all of this can go out, but not here.</p><p>Is there something I may have missed ?</p>
<p>And It has been tested on Black ABS. And it works well...... and Maybe because..... colored ABS Filaments are more prone to absorb moisture. because of their color pigments..... actually it's only the color pigments which absorb the moisture. Not the ABS.</p>
<p>Will Surely Work On it brother, Once I Got some spare time. but this is the basic solution for the problem....... A lot Of improvements are still ...... and your idea is one of those...... we'll make a standalone debubbler which'll be PID controlled , and will be using a LM35. Actually i need to talk to firmware devs........ so that we can implement this module on repraps.</p>
<p>Do you have any results/comparisons? I think this would be really useful for nylon and PVA especially since it dissolves in water. Also it probably could have been implemented a bit better, treat it like a hotend and plug it into your mobo with a thermistor. Really like the idea though. </p>

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