I saw these videos on the internet with people riding electric skateboard and going really fast. Well, I wanted to do the same thing, but those boards were 1500 USD, too expensive for me. My diy version only cost me 150$ that is 10% of the cost of the commercial ones! Granted mine is not perfect, it easily gets the job done.

Currently I get around 10 km of range at 20km/h, but the range can be easily upgraded by purchasing an additional battery and wiring it in series.

The hardest part of creating an electric skateboard is mounting the motors to the trucks (axles). Other people have achieved this using metal brackets that are welded. I don't have access to a welder so I used off the shelf components, and 3D printed a motor mount to safely and easily mount the motor. I also 3D printed the gears that deliver power from the motor to the wheels. Initially, reliability may be a concern with 3D printed parts, yet, they are very strong and can be easily re-printed and hot swapped at a very low cost. I have not had to reprint any parts as they have not worn in any way. They are truly spectacular in terms of strength.

I could have added Bluetooth phone control but that would not have been practical. Controlling a touch based slider provides no haptic feedback, unlike a car remote, and it is dangerous to keep looking at the phone screen for speed control while riding the skateboard. Plus if you fall, you could destroy your phone.

My Parts (I explain them in more detail in the next step)-

Brushless Motors

Esc (these components send power to the motors)

Remote control


Skateboard- any generic skateboard or longboard that you are willing to convert into an electric vehicle.

For more information on how I built my electric skateboard click on the next step.

Step 1: Choosing Your Electronics

As you saw in the previous part, I had listed the parts that you would need. There is of course some wiggle room in the exact parts that you pick, but only do so if you know what you are doing.

The motor: This should be a big motor around 50 mm in diameter. The KV rating should be under 300 kv. The kv rating denotes the revolutions the motor completes per volt applied. Lower KV motors mean that you get more torque for the same voltage. The only disadvantage to these are that they get really expensive real fast. Therefore an easy way to get a cheap motor and a lot of torque is to use timing belts and to step down the motor revolutions. Some of you may feel like one motor will cause the board to feel unbalanced as their is power only on one wheel. However this causes no difference in life based on experience. You can also look at the big e-skateboard makers such as Boosted boards and see that they too have one powered wheel setups with no issues.

The ESC: based on the motor that you pick, get an esc that can provide 10-20 percent more current than the motor's max current draw. For example if your motor draws 100 Amps at it's peak, then purchase a 110-120 amp Esc. Make sure that the ESC that you pick has a BEC built in. A BEC is a power supply/regulator to power you receiver. This means DON'T buy an Opto Esc, they don't have a BEC and then you need a separate battery or external BEC for your receiver. If you know how to use an external BEC, then don't keep an Opto ESC out of your options.

The batteries- The higher cell battery you buy, the faster you can go. This is irrespective of the torque. As in a 3 cell battery will have the same torque as a 6 cell battery but the 3 cell can only go half as fast as the 6 cell. The 6 cell will be a larger sized battery though. Make sure the esc you have can support the cell count of your battery. A good rule of thumb is to pick close to the maximum cell count that your esc can support. This will allow you to maximize your speed and keep current draw to a minimum. This in turn will keep you ESC cooler than at a lower voltage and higher current.

Step 2: 3D Printed Power Delivery System

From a hardware perspective, you will have to purchase 2 sets of parts. One set for mounting the motor and the other for transmitting power from your motor to your wheels. In this step I will show you how to chose your hardware for the power delivery system.

First you will have to decide how you want to deliver power to your wheels. There are 2 common ways of doing this. The most popular way of doing this is via timing belts and timing pulleys. Think of the kind used in moving 3D printer's axis. This method is relatively inexpensive and you can 3d print the pulleys yourself. The alternative is to use chains and sprockets, the kind used in bicycles. Sprockets are much harder to source and the prices of them are much higher, but they could be more durable than a belt in the long run. Personally I have not had an issue with the belt system yet.

I went with the belt power delivery system. Depending on the motor you choose, you may need to step down the speed but increase the torque. You should aim for a torque level equivalent of a 80 -100 kv motor(If you are around 60-70 kilos the 100 kv is enough. If you are heavier, aim for 80). The formula to calculate your gear reduction ration will be (motor kv / 80 or 100). Since I weigh 60 kilos and I had a 330 kv motor, I used a gear reduction of 3.5. This means, for every 3.5 times the motor turns, the wheel turns one revolution.

Now to actually picking your hardware. Based on the shaft of you motor, pick the number of teeth that you pulley will have. Based on the gear reduction ration, the pulley on the wheels will be the gear reduction value * number of teeth on motor pulley. In my case, the motor has 10 teeth and the wheel has 35 teeth.

Armed with this information, you will have to choose your belt. I chose a HTD-5 belt as it has wider spacing's between teeth than most other belts and this helps prevent against the belt slipping. It also prevents wear in the long run.

Now go to This Website - http://sdp-si.com/estore/centerdistancedesigner/

That website up there would help you choose the exact number of teeth based on the distance from the wheels center to the motor's center. Based on the number of teeth that you calculated earlier.

I purchased my 48 tooth belt through Taobao which resulted in a belt costing about 5$ plush shipping. The website above also (sdp-si) also sells these belts, but they cost between 15-20$. The Chinese belts from Taobao were great and I have no complains having ridden them for many km.

Step 3: Mounting the Motor

This was the most complex, yet creative part of the build. Here is where most skateboards differ, and mine is very unique in this regard. That is because my motor mount is 3D printed with my 350$ Prusa I3 3D printer.

The easiest way to explain my method would be by using pictures. As you can see above, I used generic off the shelf metal pieces and bolted them to the truck with M5 bolts. Then I used a small piece of plywood and attached it to the other side of the trucks to prevent backlash

I went through 3 revisions over 2 months to perfect this. Although this may look flimsy, it is not. I have ridden ~15 km on it and it has not show any signs of wear and tear. It is very firm and rigid due to the anti backlash wooden plate. The best part is that you can easily recreate the motor mount parts if they ever fail.

Please use lock nuts or thread lock to secure all of your bolts. If not, they will become loose and fail.

My 3D printed mount was designed in Autodesk Fusion 360 and I will attach the .stl for it and the Fusion 360 file for you to modify. Feel free to use it and share it, but please credit this Instructable for the idea.

The motor came with a 4 pronged metal adapter (see the images above). This attachment is bolted to the motor, which is then bolted to the motor mount.

Lastly, some of you may be wondering whether you should make the skateboard front or rear wheel drive. I tried both and I did not notice a difference. I personally prefer rear wheel drive as the electronics enclosure protects the motor from airborne gravel and dust.

Step 4: Attaching the Gear to the Wheel

There are 2 ways to do this.

Method 1: Drilling holes in your wheels. I used the Bigfoot Mountain cruiser 78 mm wheels here This is the method I used. Although this may be considered cringe worthy, it really isn't. As long as you drill slow and have accurate markings on your wheel, you will get a good result. I used a 5 mm drill bit and M4 bolts to secure the gear on to the wheel. By using a slightly smaller bolts than the hole, I was able to compensate for any imperfections/human errors in the drilling process.

Method 2:This method involves buying wheels with sections pre-cut. Some options are the ABEC 11 Flywheels or the Orangutan Kegels. Next you would slip bolts thorugh the cutouts and mount your pulleys that way. Unfortunately, these wheels were too expensive so I chose the other alternative.

By the way, the very popular boosted boards also drill into their wheels and those are one of the most popular electric long boards.

Step 5: Mounting the Electronics

There is a lot of play in how you mount your electronics. You could either 3D print an enclosure or make an enclosure. I had some spare pieces of black poly-carbonate lying around so I used them to make the enclosure. I 3D printed a hinge and used multiple Velcro straps to keep the lid closed. I cut the poly carbonate in a simple box form factor and used simple 3D printed 90 degree brackets to hold the enclosure together. Lastly, I used some more 3D printed 90 degree brackets to mount the enclosure to the skateboard.

You could alternatively not build an enclosure for the electronics but that would mean that you could get them wet, dirty and even damage them with gravel picked you as you ride. Li-Po batteries are extremely sensitive to these knocks and without an enclosure you could damage these batteries while riding and this could result in a flaming skateboard.

Therefore, invest the time and build an enclosure around your electronics. It also makes the board look a lot neater.

Step 6: Arduino Battery and Speed Indicator + Headlights

I added a small 10 segment led bar graph in the front of my skateboard to make it more functional and also look cooler. On the side of my electronic's enclosure I added 2 switches. One controls the headlights and the other switches the bar-graph between a speed reading and a voltage reading from the battery. All of this was controlled by an Arduino.

To add additional IO on my Arduino I used a shift register and this easy to sue library found here.

1: The Speed- First of all, my code is available for download on the bottom of this page. To measure my speed, I rode my skateboard at full speed and measure my speed with a phone using GPS. Next I measured my pwm at full speed and at neutral speed. Then I segmented the pwm value into 10 sections and wrote code for the Arduino to read the pwm value from the receiver and display the appropriate speed at the led bar graph in front.

2: The battery level- I took the voltage of a single LI-PO cell from the battery and had the Arduino read it. Based on the voltage it read, I would estimate the battery capacity remaining and display that on the led bar-graph. For a more accurate result you could use a watt-meter, but this was accurate enough for a general understanding of the battery level as you ride. To calculate the capacity remaining based on voltage, I used the chart attached in the images above.

3: Head lights- These are a simple 4 x 3v leds wired in series to accept 12 volts. These 12 volts are supplied by the LI-PO batteries' balance connector.

Step 7: Converting to a Long Board to Eradicate Speed Wobbles.

After some riding, the board would start to sway slightly at high speeds. Keep in mind that I was using a skateboard made for tricks and not a long board made for cursing. A long board does not sway in the same manner due to a greater distance between the 2 wheels (a.k.a wheelbase).

To fix this issue, I drilled additional holes and mounted the wheels further apart from one another. This made my skateboard into a 'ghetto' long board. Online this is known as a 'shlongboard'. And you can check out other people's builds on making them.

After my mod, all speed wobble/sway was eliminated and the ride was much nicer.

Step 8: Riding Instructions

Although my skateboard can start from a dead stop and go to full speed without cogging, I still find it easier to kick start it. The reason for this is that my, and almost anyone's, inertia is too high.Therefore, it is somewhat hard to maintain balance if you start from a stop using only the electric motor.

Once you are riding, keep an eye out for any obstacles and don't look straight down on the ground. Instead look ahead and it will be easier to ride. For brakes, you could either stop by gently lowering your foot on to the ground, or use the electronic brake functionality found on the ESC.

Step 9: Additional Advice and Further Improvement Ideas

Next time I think I will directly go to a long board rather than a modified skateboard to be more like a long board.

I would also like to implement a better carrying solution for when I am not riding it, right now I hold it by the trucks and it works fine, but the trucks do get a bit dusty, so a padded handle somewhere would be more comfortable.

Lastly, I would upgrade my batteries to larger capacity as I can only ride for about 6-7 kilometers at once.

Ride safely and put humans safety ahead of your skateboard's safety.

That's about it really. If you guys have any questions or concerns, drop them in the comments below and I will address them as soon as I can.

I was inspired by this build, so check it out.

Thanks for reading and good luck building your own.

<p>Hello, <br><br>Thank you for your build, <br><br>I'm not able to find the belt on Taobao website, will you please give a link for it.</p>
<p>Hey dude! I have YEP 150A ESC and i can't get it to work correctly with hobbyking hk-gt2b controller. I connect it to channel 2 and when i plug in the battery, the motor starts up automatically. I have pull on the throttle to stop it. I also have the programming card. Please help!</p>
<p>try rebinding it</p>
<p>Great, since you have the programming card, program the ends using the special function tab and the stop and full speed. This video should help</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y37Sk5YtU3g</p>
<p>I'm curious how the 3D printed parts have held up over time and how often you ride. </p>
<p>Thank you for these beautiful instructions. Would this power setup work if the rider is 90kg?</p>
<p>It should, but you may have to use a greater gear ratio or even 2 motors to compensate for the greater weight</p>
<p>Thank you for these beautiful instructions. Would this power setup work if the rider is 90kg?</p>
<p>I don't know to much about batteries but i was wondering if 10 5000mah 3.7v lithium ion batteries such as these:</p><p> <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371416356678?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371416356678?_trksid=p20...</a></p>
it should work if excecuted properly. the issue here would be the high current draw from the esc. lipo batteries can handle that fine, but i am not sure if the liion batteries can handle that. if there are multiple in parallel, then it should be fine though.
<p>Thanks and like i said i don't know much about batteries so was wondering if you had any ideas as to how i would charge them?</p><p> And it just occurred to me that i would only be able to use 6 of the batteries with the esc i was planning on using, but that shouldn't be a problem right?</p>
<p>You should not be limited by the battery no.s as long as they are only adding capacity and not voltage (parallel vs series). To charge them, you should probably use a commercial charger as charging those cells is dangerous and requires varying currents. Look at this page for more info. <a href="http://www.powerstream.com/li.htm" style="">http://www.powerstream.com/li.htm</a></p><p>I still recommend getting a hobby grade li-po battery as they can handle the larger currents with ease. </p>
<p>Hi thanks for your response another quick question if i were to get a 3 cell battery lipo then later on i get another on how should i wire them, in parallel or in serial? </p><p>thanks</p>
Wouldn't you increase the range only if you add batteries in parallel not series like you said?
<p><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23521__NTM_Prop_Drive_50_60_Series_380KV_2665W.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23521__...</a></p><p>Will this work? the others are sold out...</p><p>Or other same-priced alternatives anyone?</p>
<p>Hmm, this could work, but you might need a much larger gear ratio to get enough torque out of the motor. It makes more sense to spend more on a decent motor and not have to create frustrating workarounds later. But yes, theoretically, you could use a large gear ratio and make that motor work. </p>
<p>Hi, I've added your project to the <em style="">&quot;A Collection of Homemade Electric Motorized Skateboards (That You Must Make!)</em><em style="">&quot;</em> Collection</p><p>This is the link If you are interested:</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Collection-of-Homemade-Electric-Motorized-Skateb/">https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Collection-of-Ho...</a></p>
<p>I tried making this, but whenever I try to accelerate, the metal part gripping the motor shaft and the plastic pulley keeps slipping. This is to the point that the metal gets very hot and the plastic melts a bit from the friction.</p><p>Note I am only 55kg, so not very heavy.</p><p>I am using ABS printed at 230C at 30% infill.</p><p>The motor is a 280kv Turnigy Aerodrive 5055 motor running off a 6S lipo (22.2V).</p><p>Has anyone else run into this issue?</p><p>Any suggestions on fixing this?</p><p>Thanks in advance.</p>
<p>I have that exact motor/cell set up. That 280kv can be pretty brutal (Killed my drive belt not 5 days ago)</p><p>May I suggest a key way? Or grind some sort of flatter spot on the motor shaft, and construct the pulley's bore hole to have a flat spot that wont allow the shaft to turn inside it? (I have no knowledge of what is NOT possible with 3D printing)</p><p>That, along with maybe a grub screw (or locktite?) should do it. I think.</p><p>Good luck mate! And please comment your findings/solution. I'm interested to hear how it <strong>TURNS</strong> out!</p><p>Sorry, couldn't resist that one... &gt;.&gt;</p>
<p>Hey,</p><p>I fixed the issue of the pulley slipping on the motor shaft by using the other part that mounts onto the back of the motor with screws, the motor mount will have to mount onto the other side of the trucks.</p><p>Only problem now is that the pulley slips and needs a very gradual acceleration to keep the belt on the pulley.</p><p>I think this maybe fixable by using a 15T rather than a 14T and also making the belt tighter.</p><p>I'll try what I can this weekend.</p>
<p>Sweet. Nice to see other people try this build. For the tension, my motor mounting solution includes a way to slide the motor closer and further from the trucks. Hence, I can tension it all I want. Alternatively, you could add a ball-bearing pushing the belt, and tension it that way.</p>
<p>I have made the belt tension work by tensioning it with old skate ball-bearings on either side, this allows the belt to grip the smaller pulley by an additional 2 teeth on either side, 4 teeth total.</p><p>It works well, when it does work, but the problem is the belt slides from side to side sometimes and it rubbed against the plastic bars holding the bearings in place, which in turn cause it to melt and snap.</p><p>Will need to do some remodelling.</p><p>Any constructive suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.</p>
<p>Ok, I got a few suggestions.</p><p>Perhaps you could glue/weld/epoxy a washer on the side (the bar side) of the bearing.</p><p>Or sit a washer between the two bearings (if I see correctly that there are two hub bearings on the top and two on the bottom.)</p><p>This would prevent the belt from sliding farther then the washer, keeping it from rubbing against the plastic bar.</p><p>...........</p><p>Then, if you have a 3D printer (I assume you do)</p><p>You could widen the flange (the side part of the pulley that creates the 'wall' for the teeth. I think its called a flange) on your drive pulley inward, preventing the belt from sliding outward (from the motor) and rubbing against your bar.</p><p>Or you could re-make the drive and wheel pulleys all together adding flanges to each of them to help 'guide' the belt and keep it centered on the gear</p><p>.</p><p>Or just re-size your pulleys to accommodate more teeth on the drive pulley, preventing cogging, and ridding you the need for the bar/bearing setup.</p><p>.</p><p>I really enjoy watching you work through your problems. (not that I enjoy seeing that you DO have problems) That is some creative brain juices flowing over there and I am intrigued to see what you do next :D</p><p>Good luck and good day!</p><p>-C.R</p>
<p>Hey, Thanks for your advice!</p><p>I just went through and skimmed over your instructable... Thats some impressive detail. If only that was out before I started, I struggled a lot in deciding what ESC to go for, since I had a fairly low budget. Luckily, I got a car one.</p><p>Anyways, I was already thinking of modelling extra flanges onto the pulleys so that the belt stays in place. Unfortunately, I don't have welding tools or any other fabrication tools other than my 3D Printer (which I am only allowed to use at night now, since the electricity rate is cheaper than the day), so I mount the motor mount using a sort of ghetto setscrew system, the thing is, because the belt is tight, it pulls the mount inwards causing a slight slant, hence causing the belt to slide along the slant.</p><p>On your advice on re-sizing the drive pulley, from my research I found that 14-16 teeth for the drive pulley and something like 36 teeth for the wheel is optimal for torque. I am using 15 teeth because 14 didn't have enough teeth and slipped a bit.</p><p>Thanks for your insight!</p><p>Will post back during or after the weekend on my progress. Hopefully it will be the last one, with a happy ending.</p><p>Oh, and have you ever needed to replace your drive belt? because I am thinking of buying a few spares. My current (testing one) is getting a bit frayed from all the failed runs.</p>
<p>I had zero fabrication tools, just me, my mp3 player, a rotary grinder, a drill press, and a angle grinder. Your 3D printer is like an all-creating shop god to me XD</p><p>Making those motor mounts where (long) 'fun'...</p><p>Well at least your belt is tight. I have busted two belts because my tension was to loose (once because my motor mount was to loose (A problem with metric/standard sized nylon locking nuts) and slid inward releasing tension, the other because I purposely kept it semi-tight and not all the way tight in fear of straining the motor. Both my fault. I have learned my lesson now and know to keep the tension nice and tight.</p><p>The thing is, my wheel pulley is not perfectly centered, and wobbles about two millimeters when the wheel spins (it actually wobbles toward the &quot;OOT&quot; in 'Bigfoot&quot; that is printed on the outside of the wheel.) I tried taping it back in place, but it doesn't budge, and I don't feel like unscrewing the thing and doing more drilling as that was a royal ultra pain in the first place. I was worried about straining the motor when the tension gets tight as the wheel pulley shifts away from the motor during a rotation, but I guess I worried about that two much.</p><p>Keep the tension medium/high to high. You should be good in that respect XD</p><p>If you do happen to break your belt/want to get a new one (or two) don't go to SDP/SI. They inflate their shipping prices, and their belt price is rather high. (I only got my first belt there because I was also getting both of my pulleys as well and math told me that combined shipping would be best rather then getting pulleys and belt separately)</p><p>If you want to order a new belt(s) go to PolyTech Design inc.</p><p>In fact, if your using a 57 tooth (285mm) belt I have a direct link to the same belt at their website <a href="http://shop.polybelt.com/285-5m-09-Rubber-Timing-Belt-57-Tooth-B285-5M-09BNG.htm" rel="nofollow">HERE</a> A quick price check will show that their price crushes SDP/SI.</p><p>One thing though, an order must total anything $10 or more. and since the belts are a $5.05 each you have to buy at least two. But its really is an awesome deal, and getting a spare (or in your case, a double spare) cheaper, with cheaper shipping, is a win-win-win-win. I wouldn't hesitate to get the two belts from their (Am I glad I did!)</p><p>.</p><p>When it all comes out in the end, I encourage you to also post your build on instructables! People need to see that building these things are very possible, and other need encouragement to de-bug their own DIY e-board/admire other's ingenious problem solving.</p><p>If only I could link all these comments. Its gold when peeps come together to problem solve. And others could do as well by reading them.</p><p>.</p><p>Anyway, have fun, keep that printer hot, cant wait to see what happens next, and sorry for the wall of text!</p><p>-C.R</p>
<p>Nice, I like the way that you've implemented the bearings. As for the melting of the belt, that is really strange and should only happen it is misaligned. The pictures make it seem like that is not the case here. I guess remodeling the gears, with additional bars to prevent the belt from swaying, could work. Let me know if I can help in any way. Really want to see your project work!!!</p>
<p>Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like the belt melted, rather the two columns holding the bearings in place melted.</p><p>And yes, the belt does get misaligned when it runs, so I will have to add flanges to each of the pulleys to not allow the belt to slide.</p><p>Thanks for your support!, I look forward to getting this to work as well :)</p>
<p>Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like the belt melted, rather the two columns holding the bearings in place melted.</p><p>And yes, the belt does get misaligned when it runs, so I will have to add flanges to each of the pulleys to not allow the belt to slide.</p><p>Thanks for your support!, I look forward to getting this to work as well :)</p>
<p>Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like the belt melted, rather the two columns holding the bearings in place melted.</p><p>And yes, the belt does get misaligned when it runs, so I will have to add flanges to each of the pulleys to not allow the belt to slide.</p><p>Thanks for your support!, I look forward to getting this to work as well :)</p>
<p>How does the sliding motor thing work? Wouldn't the belt pull the motor towards the wheel and loosen it?</p><p>Also how would I tension it with ball bearings? I have an idea of how to do it, but not an adjustable one.</p>
<p>Wow...</p><p>Just wow.</p><p>That is ingenious!!! I never would of thought of that! Great job!</p><p>And I think your on the right path with the belt tension and/or drive pulley tooth count. Good luck!</p>
<p>Sweet. Nice to see other people try this build. For the tension, my motor mounting solution includes a way to slide the motor closer and further from the trucks. Hence, I can tension it all I want. Alternatively, you could add a ball-bearing pushing the belt, and tension it that way.</p>
<p>lol, great pun XD</p>
<p>Strange, I never experienced something like that before. In fact, I am primarily using PLA without any issues. If you can record a short video, I can better diagnose the issue and give advice... Thanks.</p>
<p>Nice build man! Its guys like you who push the boundaries of what people think when they hear '3D printing'!<br>How did you get the YEP to correctly connect to the receiver (Did you use an RC car remote? Or aircraft remote?)<br>I had previously tried using a YEP ESC for my electric longboard build, but it never worked.</p><p>Any ideas on working with a YEP ESC?<br>How dose it act in a more RC car like application.</p>
<p>Thanks, that really means a lot to me. Secondly, I used the yep programming card to change the startup type from helicopter to plane for instant throttle response. Also, I used a car remote to connect the esc to the receiver. If you still have that esc and are having issues, shoot me a message, and I'll try to help you out. :D</p>
<p>If only I had seen this post three months ago...</p><p>Unfortunately I returned the YEP for another (RC Car) ESC, which cost 2-3X more :l</p><p>Higher Amp YEP ESCs cost less then comparable RC Car ESCs, so I bought one (along with the appropriate programming card), wondering if it would work in my longboard application. I cant remember exactly what was wrong, but I think it was not connecting with the receiver. (the receiver module was blinking, even when the remote was on. I tried every ESC --&gt; Receiver wiring combo as well, plus messing with the programing card. The motor never turned (which may have been a wiring issue now that I look back on it, (I have learned much since then ;) </p><p>So I figured it was a compatibility problem with the Car remote/receiver and a helicopter/plane ESC, and returned it for a car ESC.</p><p>However I forgot to return the Programing card.</p><p>(if there is anyone who lives near Chico California who needs a YEP programming card, I got one I can throw your way for free!)</p><p>But ya, that's my sad story. For my next build I am going with a dual Alien power system, so YEP wont be needed. But seeing you got it to work, I feel slightly dumb, but safe in the knowledge that my first hunch that they would work together was right!</p><p>Thanks again man. If I do make a board (most likley to sell) I may make use of a YEP and your YEP knowledge.</p><p>And keep up the good work!</p>
<p>Thanks. Keep in mind that I will never again use a YEP esc for this build. I fried it when I used the skateboard with on board brakes. Brakes is a must for any electric skateboard, so I had to use the built in ones. Apparently, I was generating too much current and that messed with the esc. Oh well...</p>
<p>I wouldn't say never use a YEP ESC.</p><p>If you used the YEP In the picture above (the 2-6S, 60Amp) I can see where things went wrong.</p><p>First of all, Let me explain what volts/amps are. Ill use a garden hose as an example 'wire's</p><p>Volts is how much water is flowing through the hose (gallons per minuet)</p><p>Amps is the water pressure (how the water pushes against the hose's sides)</p><p>If you think as most of the electrical activity on your board as water flowing, it really clears things up (like parallel vs series, and/or how when you run 12 volts into a dual ESC, each motor on the dual ESC gets 6 volts each)</p><p>When you break, you (somehow) generate electrical energy. This is fed back to the ESC (I think. I am NOT an ESC pro, yet ;)</p><p>Its at this moment that your pulling the most amps your ESC will ever need to see, (much) more then when it is just running the motor. (your motor's max Amperage capacity is 65 Amps)</p><p>The amount of energy being generated is to great for the ESC, so it tries to shed it off in the form of heat. This can lead to thermal damage, AS WELL AS circuitry damage from the intense overload of Amperage.</p><p>.</p><p>.</p><p>Not to preach or condemn, but Ill let you know what you did wrong (All in good faith, and hopefully keeping others from making the same mistake ;)</p><p>First off, you should have bought an ESC with a rating AT LEAST equal to or HIGHER then the max Amp rating on your motor. If the motor CAN draw 65 Amps, would it not be wise to get a ESC that can support the motor alone?</p><p>Second, As I mentioned above, breaking sends a good amount of amperage through the ESC. And while your motor might DRAW 65 Amps, it can <strong>probably</strong> generate more then that while breaking <strong>(don't quote me there)</strong></p><p>Third. Getting an ESC higher then the motors rating not only reduces the chance of the motor drawing more Amps then the ESC can handle (remember, the garden hose) But it also means your ESC will not heat up near as quick (if at all) during rides, but most of all during breaking. I have heard it is best to get an ESC that is rated to about 20% more Amps then your motor can draw. This gives a nice margin of fail safety, and also decreases the likely hood of your ESC heating up/</p><p>And lets face it, when one has their ESC right next to those LiPo batteries in a pretty enclosed box, you don't really want your ESC to heat up that much.</p><p>.</p><p>My motor's max Amperage draw is 60 Amps.</p><p>My ESC is rated to 150 Amps.</p><p>Now this is WAYYYYYY over the top amperage rating for the motor, but I have NEVER had a heating problem with my ESC. In fact, the cooling fan is rather loud and annoying, so I plugged it up with a zip-tie. And even without the fan circulating air it never heats up (or at least is not noticeable at all)</p><p>But ya, I guess.</p><p><strong>End lesson: Get an ESC rated to an amperage equal to or greater then your motor. Rule of thumb: 20% more amperage is great!</strong></p><p>Hope that helps man, and sorry to hear about your loss. :c</p><p>Keep up the good work!</p>
<p>Thanks for the insightful comment. Yea, I knew all of that, but I kind of cheated and saved 20 bucks. False economies do suck... Also, I heard that almost all decent escs take the excess power from the brakes and stuff it back into the battery, essentially re-charging it. However, the Yep esc is very different. HK might have saved a few bucks on that part of the circuit and made the brakes output the excess power through heat. This would work alright with a freewheeling prop, but not so well with a skateboard. Thanks for your comment, I am sure it will help someone or the other. :D</p>
<p>Thanks for the insightful comment. Yea, I knew all of that, but I kind of cheated and saved 20 bucks. False economies do suck... Also, I heard that almost all decent escs take the excess power from the brakes and stuff it back into the battery, essentially re-charging it. However, the Yep esc is very different. HK might have saved a few bucks on that part of the circuit and made the brakes output the excess power through heat. This would work alright with a freewheeling prop, but not so well with a skateboard. Thanks for your comment, I am sure it will help someone or the other. :D</p>
<p>Thanks for the insightful comment. Yea, I knew all of that, but I kind of cheated and saved 20 bucks. False economies do suck... Also, I heard that almost all decent escs take the excess power from the brakes and stuff it back into the battery, essentially re-charging it. However, the Yep esc is very different. HK might have saved a few bucks on that part of the circuit and made the brakes output the excess power through heat. This would work alright with a freewheeling prop, but not so well with a skateboard. Thanks for your comment, I am sure it will help someone or the other. :D</p>
<p>Wait, forget my previous reply. You obviously already know that as you mentioned it in your instructable XD</p><p>Interesting. Lookout for YEP I guess. Then again, they where NOT meant for anything with wheels, much less a human being ;)</p>
<p>3D printed compact remote:</p><p><a href="http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/build-your-own-compact-eboard-controller-gt2b-case-mod/104" rel="nofollow">http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/build-your-own-compact-eboard-controller-gt2b-case-mod/104</a></p><p>Pretty much the HK controller in a smaller, 3D printed casing!</p>
<p>Sweet, fits well within the theme of 3D printing. I was designing something like this, but looks like someone beat me to it. Oh well...</p>
Do you think this setup of battery, esc and motor will go faster if you put it on a longboard? Also great tutorial I plan on following it for a school project
<p>Actually the added weight of a bigger deck (longboard deck) would add weight (Though so little extra weight that it would not matter at all)</p><p>Also a longboard, being longer then a skateboard, offers mote deck flexibility, and more distance between the rear/front wheels, offering a much smoother and well balanced ride (as well as less speed wobbles at higher speeds then a skateboard)</p><p>Hope this helps!</p>
<p>Perfectly put. Yes, I cheaped out and bought a skateboard although a longboard would be ideal for this build.</p>
<p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOe73EULYqE</p><p>easiest electric skateboard build with sick lights.</p>

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More by Saral Tayal:V3, No Weld, 3D Printed, Electric Longboard 3D Printed electric Longboard V2 Intro to 3D Printing 
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