Introduction: 1/6 Scale Model Wooden Chair
I decided to make this project for 2 main purposes
-Practice the real size , basic , functional woodworking skill to make a chair ( because i don't have enough space, budget, and other resource for full scale size.)
-My sketch model figure need a chair.
so for above reasons, i set up following requirements for this scale chair
(those requirements comes from the woodworking book named " The Complete Manual for Woodworking")
1):Seat width : Taper shape from front to back
2):Sear angle: 5 degree from horizontal (slightly backward.)
3):Angle of back rest 25 degree from vertical
4):Position of back rest (Support middle of back)
so converted to 1/6 scale will be
1:seat width 7.15~7.5 cm
2:seat depth 6.25 cm
3:position of back support 3.5 cm high from seat
4: seat height: 7.2 cm
Step 1: Step 1 : Material
1):6 x 6 mm wooden square rod
2):hot glue or title bond 3
1:Autodesk 123 design
2:My DIY mini miter box
4:AXTO mini saw, chisel, pen knife
5:Dremel 3000 + sanding bur
7:wooden clamps x 2
8:hot glue gun
9:painting brushes + Acrylic color
Step 2: Step 2: Design the Basic Model Frame
it take time to get used and know how to control in the Autodesl 123 design
but it is quite useful for visualize the imaginary project and help to discover the problem need to improve
( as shown on the photo)
Step 3: Step 3: Cut the Planning Length of Square Rod
The basic frame require following lengths
I: 6.3 cm x 2 (back support frame) not show on photo
II: 12.2 cm x 2
III:6.9 cm ( back beam), 6.75 cm (front beam)
IV: 8.2 cm x 2
V: 2.86 cm x 2
VI: 5.8 cm x 2
Step 4: Step 4 : Measure and Draw the Joint Mark
-For 8.2 (CM) piece, draw 2 tenon mortise marks which are connect on one end , one mortise for front beam, other for lateral beam.
-For 6.75 piece. Mark 2 ends with tenon which joint with 8.2 piece
-For 12.2 piece, use square ruler to draw the base line on 7.2 cm height from one end, mark the half square on 2 adjacent surface, then draw the 25 degree on other end which is colser to the 7.2 mark.
-For 6.9 piece, mark 2 end with 1/2 45 degree wedge which joint with 12.2 piece
-For 5.8 piece, 1 end mark tenon which connect with 8.2 piece , the other end draw 1/2 45 degree which connect to 12.2 piece.
Step 5: Step 5 : Cutting Marking Line
-8.2 cm piece, i used model saw to cut the mark line and try not rush or push too hard . It may cause cutting too much wood structure,( lose its strength) , Then remove the chip left in mortise with mini chisel. repeat on both.)
-12.2 piece Use mini chisel to outline the marking area , letting saw cutting easily, and for me there is accuracy problem , after cutting, i found out there were some remaining chip on the corner which is hard to clean if i don't want to compromise the intact joint structure. ( i trim with a small file.)
-6.9 piece, totally used with mini chisel , ( but not recommend , because it easily cause uncontinuous surface if the force went to wrong direction)
-For 5.8 piece, the same procedure, try to keep the shape.
-For 6.75 piece, same , following the marking line.
Step 6: Step6: Assembling the Frame
-Preheat the hot glue gun, and wooden square
-after gun was ready drip some flue on 8.2 piece joint then connect with 6.75 piece quickly, do the same on other one too. before glue setting, use square to check the vertical 90 degree as accurate as possible.
-drip glue on hollow corner of joint of 12.2 piece, then connect with 6.9 piece ( same on the other end.) pressed it firmly and learning on the square , keep its uprightness.
Support frame: at this point, i fount there was structure weakness on its won structure, the frame can not hold its 90 degree firmly by itself, so i cut some small both end 45 degree piece to cement on the corner on both back and front 90 degree corner as shown on the photo.
Lateral Beam ( connect back and front frame) actually a the step is the same, but use square to keep is up rightness.
-Connect the upper 25 degree small piece with title bond 3 on upper end of 12.2 piece( the hot glue gun is not strong enough to hold its position at this point i think.)
Step 7: Step 7: Prepare the Chair Surface (seat and Back)
-Use popsicle stick to layout the seating area and back support area. and mark the boundary.
as shown on the photo, seating area require 6 sticks
, back surface require 3 sticks
-Cutting the stick wit the marking line , then glue them with title bond 3 on target area
(i used 2 wooden clamps to fix the back area until glue setting,
Step 8: Step 8: Sanding
After check the chair surface grab dremel 3000 with sand bur to sand all the uncontinuous edge, corner, and surface, also removed the extra chip, make whole chair smooth.
Step 9: Step 9: Painting Wood Texture
I am not familiar in this part, so there are ton of weathering technique video on youtube, so find out a way which suit you.
i used one basic painting color technique, prepare 3 acrylic color: Black, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna
1:drip some water on brush and paint Burnt sienna as base color
2:then slightly wipe other 2 color with less water, try to mimic the nature wooden grain texture.
(after doing so,i need much to practice to make look more realistic.)
Then the 1/6 scale model chair is done, hope you make your own, and please leave a comment to let me know which part can be improved,
Thank you for reading.
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.