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In this instructable, I'm going to show you how to make a Nerf Maverick, with a rotating barrel mechanism to shoot 16 Darts. I made this gun for my brother, admittedly he is 22 years old, but can you ever be to old for Nerf guns? 

Thanks to this mechanism, you can not only load more darts, but also reload them faster.
 
To get a better idea, watch the video:



Thanks to Instructables member ballisticjoe I found out, that I'm not the first one, to attempt this mod. You can find an other version, of this gun here.
 
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Step 1: What you need

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Materials

    • three NERF Mavericks (e.g. on amazon.com)
    • fine grid sanding paper
    • two M4 screws, 4 nuts (two locknuts are even better) and two washers
    • self tapping screw
    • strong glue
    • 6 mm acrylic, or plywood and a way to cut them to the shape shown in step three (e.g. laser cutter,
      scroll saw, fretsaw...)
    • optional: email paint, paint brushes, epoxy putty

Tools

    • hack saw
    • cross slot screwdriver
    • claw hammer (if you don't have one, don't worry a slotted screwdriver will work as well)
    • drill
    • drill bits: 2 mm, 4.2 mm

Step 2: Take them apart

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We will start by disassembling the gun. Make sure, that when you take the pull back mechanism apart, that you don't loose the spring and small orange part (see the second picture). Underneath it is an other screw.
Carefully pull the two big yellow plastic pieces apart. Take the barrel out and carefully use a claw hammer to pry out the metal rod. Be careful, not to loose the spring. Remove the three screws in the back (black part) of the barrel and gently slide the top of the barrel of.
Take the air restrictors out and remove the inside and the springs, you wont need them anymore. I've seen people cutting of the spikes off, tried it myself and didn't really notice a difference (so you are free to do it, but don't expect any wonders).
Remove the two screws in the middle, to get rid of the grey piece in the back. Do this for all three guns.

Step 3: Cut the connectors

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In the first picture you can see the measurement you need, to build the connector pieces. The final shape is up to you. I was in the lucky position of being able to use a laser cutter. If you don't have one, you should be able to use a scroll saw, or even a fret saw.
I cut the pieces out of clear acrylic (5.8 mm), but plywood should work as well.

UPDATE: I've been asked by quite a few people, to send them the vector files, that's why I've uploaded them here.

Step 4: Make room for the barrels

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To fit the barrels, you will have to remove the parts, that I've coloured blue in the pictures. I started by using a Dremel, but noticed, that a hacksaw actually works better. Don't forget to round the corners in the front (with either a file or sand paper).

The fourth picture shows, where you will have to carefully cut the grey pieces, that hold the front barrel in place. Make very sure, not to remove all of the inside, as shown in the fifth picture.

Step 5: Stabilizing

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I decided to enforce the front of the gun with an extra screw, by filling the already existing tube with Milliput and drilling a hole into it, once it was dried.
To give the gun a smooth finish, I used the Milliput to fill the holes, as shown in the pictures.
Mark the middle holes of the connector pieces, by holding them in place with one barrel attached to them. Due to the lack of an angle drill, I drilled the holes, with an 4.2 mm drill by hand (after drilling a smaller hole at an angle).

Step 6: Assembling

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If you would like to paint the gun you should do so, before assembling it. I used Revell email paints and dry brushed them later.
To stabilize the plastic, glue one washer to the back of each hole, as shown in the first picture. Then secure the connector pieces with a screw and two nuts each.
Reassemble the gun, if you are having trouble on finding the correct spot for every piece, check out the picture in step 2. If you would like to make your gun stronger, add two or three washers at the back of the spring.
Once, you are done, you will have to reassemble the barrel. Instead of using the small grey front piece, use the front connector piece, as shown in the third picture. Don't forget the spring and hammer the metal rod back into the barrel. Once you finished one barrel, turn the mechanism and attach the next one. 
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ihasdonut7 months ago
The Internet tried its power and it went to far

LOL I know right

hoskingr9 months ago

I designed the lazer cut parts in 3D printed format.

download here on thingiverse.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:508503/#files

cool i might have to try them out.

Reply if your reading in 2015 :P

hyoung hoskingr5 months ago

would you be selling the 2 parts needed to hold the cylinders?if cheap, i would love 2 sets.

JacobC5 hoskingr7 months ago

Will this work in autodesk?

hoskingr JacobC57 months ago
its just the .stl files but i designed them in Autodesk Inventor so i dont see why not.
JacobC5 hoskingr7 months ago

Ok thanks.

bardbard1 month ago

great idea bet I don't have 3 mavericks

Ryderbike1 made it!11 months ago

I made one and am going to make another for a frends birthday. I might change the back berrel conector to a circle for fast changing. Awsome mod

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DX I don't want to attempt this for running the risk on ruining my gun for I have lost several guns to messing up one little thing that I could not figure out and those mistakes basically killed the gun but I think it looks really cool and I don't have all the materials needed

also is a cross slotted screwdriver a Phillips head? the on that's like a plus or minus I don't know the difference DX

Fostis1 year ago

Is there any chance you happen to have files for a 3D printer for the parts that connect the 3 cylinders?

marksagexD1 year ago

hi again I've finished the gun but now when i go to fire a dart it just makes a loud bang and nothing is fired im not really sure what has gone wrong

BrittLiv (author)  marksagexD1 year ago

Hi, that is weird. can you open it up and take a picture, how your internals look like?

hi sorry i haven't got back to you i was getting ready for my exams I've fixed it now but I've added pictures anyway so you can see what it looks like I've named it "The Bumble Bee"

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I believe that this means your gun either is no longer pushing air (perhaps the plunger head is not on?) or there is a problem with the air chamber or some other seal. If your plunger head is still attached, make sure the o-ring is still on. Also try to minimize the distance between the barrel assembly and the gun body itself. Maybe some shaved down craft foam as I believe that's what a lot of people use to help get a better seal.

marksagexD1 year ago

hi can you put pictures of the back of the connectors attached to the gun i'm struggling with this

BrittLiv (author)  marksagexD1 year ago

Hi, I already did, just browse through the comments.

gunnyboy1 year ago
A rotating tri-cylinder assembly. Genius.
marksagexD1 year ago

every time i click on the .dfx file it just takes me to a new tab and i cannot download them and are they compatible with 2d design??

BrittLiv (author)  marksagexD1 year ago

right click on it and choose "save link as"

thanks

How do i do the first step on step 6?
BrittLiv (author)  bententhhousand1 year ago
Do you mean the part about painting or "To stabilize the plastic, glue one washer to the back of each hole, as shown in the first picture. Then secure the connector pieces with a screw and two nuts each."?
Diy751 year ago
BrittLiv, I'm confused about if you even need the gray pieces. Do you need them, or can you just throw them out? Please reply.
BrittLiv (author)  Diy751 year ago
Hi, you only need the front part. Take a look at the last picture of step 4. The pieces you need are lying on the right.
Diy75 BrittLiv1 year ago
Thanks.
jackmaster1 year ago
aaaaaaaaaaaawwwweeesssooommmeeee
great work! Awesome!
super freaking awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sgruenke2 years ago
Would this work with a 3d printer? My scool will be renting one soon.
Pippodippo2 years ago
Thank you really helps, i'll go check now
And thanks again for the great design and quick replies
Pippodippo2 years ago
Hey nice work, im going to use this style but what are the names of the colours you used and are they Revel?
Thanks
BrittLiv (author)  Pippodippo2 years ago
Hi, I think it is 90, 92 and 8, but I'm not a 100% sure, because I left the colours in the UK
modded3 years ago
As you can see, I went for a laser effect on mine. For the Nite-Finder, I realised it's significantly harder to paint than the Maverick, due to it's shape, it's less flowing. I thought of trying a rust effect on the Nite-Finder, however I didn't have the paint. Finally, what paint do you use? I personally use Citadel, as I also paint models, figures etc. But I must say, they are incredibly (For want of a better word) resilient. I let my little sister play with both of the guns, and the paint is still on, and not showing any signs of flaking off.
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BrittLiv (author)  modded3 years ago
They look nice, I really like the combination of black and orange! I used Revell paint.
modded BrittLiv3 years ago
I haven't heard of Revell, but I presume your from the states, so that would explain it. The metallic look goes really well on yours, but as javajunkie1976 said, you could put how you did the paint in the steampunk section. I'd say it's good enough to have an instructable just on the painting.
BrittLiv (author)  modded3 years ago
Actually I'm from Germany and made the gun during an internship in the UK. I ordered the paint here: http://www.emodels.co.uk
modded BrittLiv3 years ago
Ah. Two things: I may sound like an idiot, but what's an internship?, And I'm learning German! I'm appalling though, the only thing's I can remember are like 'Ich habe eine Hund, und eine katze'
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