Step 1: Drafting the Coat: Supplies
- Tracing paper (I find that medical exam paper is cheap and works great: http://www.amazon.com/Medical-Pattern-Paper-Patternmaking-Drafting/dp/B007AH74VO)
- Hip and French curve
- Meter stick (or yard stick that shows cm)
- Measuring Tape
I drafted this from a pattern contained in the History of Costuming book: https://archive.org/details/historyofcostume00khle (see figure 438). You will see numbers on the pattern drawing. These numbers indicate a distance in cm.
Step 2: Drafting the Coat: Get Your Measurements
For this coat what you will want will include:
- Armscye (around the arm where the armhole is)
- Back width
- Shoulder width
- Arm length
- Elbow Length
Step 3: Drafting the Coat: Drawing the Back and Front Pieces
After drafting the back, I drafted the front of the coat. Make sure that your shoulder lengths match. It would be sad if they didn't. Also, use your different curves and measuring tapes to ensure that the side seams match as well. I then found that I had to greatly widen the armhole for me. So use your armscye measurements to try and get the hole to be the right size for you.
Once you have finished drafting, be sure to add in a seam allowance. I added in 5/8" (I know, I changed units, but that is the seam allowance I'm used to, so deal with it).
Note: When I draft, I prefer to err on the large side of things. It is a lot easier to take in an outfit than widen it.
Step 4: Drafting the Coat: Start Your Mockup
- Basic sewing supplies
- Cheap fabric
Cut out two back and two front pieces. Attach the back pieces down the center up to the tails. Let the tail pieces overlap each other. Then attach the back to the front pieces. Start by attaching the shoulders, than the sides.
Try on the mockup and test the fit. Have a friend/relative/etc help you size things up. Mark the modifications that you need to make on the mockup. Once you are satisfied, transfer the changes to the pattern. Note that this style of coat is not designed to button up.
Step 5: Drafting the Coat: Making the Sleeves
What also may help is to find a similar looking sleeve from another pattern. Trace it and fit it. use your armscye and bicep measurements to help you here. Add in your seam allowance.
Cut out a mockup of the sleeve and try attaching it. You only need one sleeve for the mockup. Note that this process may require a few iterations. It took me at least three tries to make the sleeve look right. Then it took me a few more tries to get the sleeve positioned on the coat in a way that I liked. Try comparing to a suit coat that you know already fits you nicely.
If you need help attaching a sleeve: https://www.google.com/search?q=how to attach sleeve
Step 6: Drafting the Coat: the Cuff and Collar
The cuff is drafted by measuring the bottom of the sleeve pattern. Draw a line matching that length. Then create a trapazoid buy drawing another line 4" (about 10cm) above the first line adding an inch to it.
The collar is made by creating a rectangle. Measure the mockup going from coat front edge to the other. Go up about 3 inches (all depending on how high you want the collar).
Try these on the mockup and see what you think.
Once you are satisfied with the mockup, it's time to get fabric and make the coat.
Step 7: Making the Coat: Materials
- Main fabric (about 3-4 yrds). Remember that it is always better to err on the side of too much.
- Lining fabric (about 3-4 yrds)
- Trimming (about 4.5 yrds) Measure your costume to make sure
- 12 front buttons (optional)
- 2 back buttons (optional)
Step 8: Making the Coat: Cut Out the Pattern
From the lining, you will need to cut out the main coat front and back as well as the sleeves.
Step 9: Making the Coat: Sewing the Main Part
With right sides together, pin the lining to the main coat. sew down the front parts going from the collar to the bottom of the coat. Now would be the time to turn the coat with the right sides out and attach the trim that goes along the front. make sure that the trimming matches on both sides.
Once the trimming is attached, flip the coat inside out again and sew along the bottom. Go up the tails and make sure the lining attaches to the main coat correctly. Don't sew around the arm holes and neck.
Flip the coat right side out. Baste around the armholes and neck now. Iron everything so that it looks nice.
Step 10: Making the Coat: Sewing the Sleeve
Sew together the cuffs. This is done by sewing together the sides, then attach them at the top. Before you close the loop, attach the trimming to the outside. Close the loop, turn the cuff how it needs to go and iron.
Pin the raw edge of the cuff to the bottom raw edge of the outside sleeve and baste them together. Take the lining (still inside-out) and lay over the sleeve and the cuff (you should see the wrong side of the lining outside of everything). Match up the bottom raw edge and attach. Trim the seam allowances and pull the lining inside the sleeve. This will nicely cleanup the cuff of the sleeve. Iron the sleeve and add ease stitching to the armhole side of the sleeves.
Step 11: Making the Coat: Attach the Sleeves
Step 12: Making the Coat: Make the Collar
With the inner collar piece (the side touching your neck), iron up the bottom part to the seam allowance (ironed up side is on the inside). With right sides together attach the outside and inside collar pieces by stitching up the sides and along the top. Make sure you line up the seam to the front of the coat. Trim the seam and corners and flip the collar right-sides out. Stitch in the ditch around the collar to attach the bottom of the inside collar piece. Iron.
Step 13: Making the Coat: Finishing Touches
Now your coat is complete. Go out and enjoy!
For the costume I'm wearing it with:
- Breeches and shirt are from Simplicity 4923
- The vest is just made from your favorite vest pattern
- The Jabot is just layers of gathered lace on a square of fabric. This was then attached to a neck strap