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This is a step by step for changing the timing belt on a 1994 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.0 Liter, Engine code 3VZE.
My engine has 195K miles and I have no idea when any of this was done cause there was no paper trail.
I will be changing the following parts: Timing Belt, Water Pump, thermostat, No.1 Idler, No.2 Idler, AC Idler Pulley, AC, Power Steering, and Alternator Belts.
This whole process was done over 4th of July weekend. Until I found that the no. 2 idler was shot, so I had to order that on Saturday and wait till it comes (FYI I'm starting this Instructable early). Other wise this is a one weekend job that if you have the right tools, some patience, and all the parts you'll have no problems!
Disclaimer:
I am not a mechanic but I am damn handy. I do all of my own car work and know a little bit of everything. I researched everything before I set out to do this and at the end of this article will be links to all the resources I was drawing from (I suggest you look at them before you start).
Antifreeze is a corrosive poisonous liquid that looks and tastes like green Koolade, if it gets on your skin or in your eyes IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER (go to hospital if irritation continues). Small children and pets easily lick it up and Will go blind or die. Therefore don't let it sit out or dribble and pool on the ground, flush it down the toilet or pour it down the sewer.
Misaligning the cams or crankshaft pulleys will cause serious damage to your engine; mark them with the paint pen and make sure they DO NOT MOVE!
I take no responsibility for damage done to yours or others property by following this guide.
This is a step by step for changing the timing belt on a 1994 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.0 Liter, Engine code 3VZE.
My engine has 195K miles and I have no idea when any of this was done cause there was no paper trail.
I will be changing the following parts: Timing Belt, Water Pump, thermostat, No.1 Idler, No.2 Idler, AC Idler Pulley, AC, Power Steering, and Alternator Belts.
This whole process was done over 4th of July weekend. Until I found that the no. 2 idler was shot, so I had to order that on Saturday and wait till it comes (FYI I'm starting this Instructable early). Other wise this is a one weekend job that if you have the right tools, some patience, and all the parts you'll have no problems!
Disclaimer:
I am not a mechanic but I am damn handy. I do all of my own car work and know a little bit of everything. I researched everything before I set out to do this and at the end of this article will be links to all the resources I was drawing from (I suggest you look at them before you start).
Antifreeze is a corrosive poisonous liquid that looks and tastes like green Koolade, if it gets on your skin or in your eyes IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER (go to hospital if irritation continues). Small children and pets easily lick it up and Will go blind or die. Therefore don't let it sit out or dribble and pool on the ground, flush it down the toilet or pour it down the sewer.
Misaligning the cams or crankshaft pulleys will cause serious damage to your engine; mark them with the paint pen and make sure they DO NOT MOVE!
I take no responsibility for damage done to yours or others property by following this guide.
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Signing UpStep 1Tools for the job
Required Tools:
Metric sockets(shallow well) 4, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 19mm. One deep well 14mm
Swivel head for those sockets and extensions, 2 in and 2x 4 in.
Torque Wrench
Hammer (ball pine preferred)
Pulley Puller (can rent at AutoZone)
Gasket Maker / Packing Material / Sealent
Several razor blades and a green bremmo pad for cleaning gasket areas
Screw drivers
Paint pen - very important!
Haynes manual or a factory service manual (something besides me)
Funnel with narrow tip
Drain pan (or a big bowl)
Latex gloves when working in the greasy areas
Lots of paper towels
Antifreeze to replace what you drain(see step 12)
Transmission Fluid to replace the small amount you'll lose
I HIGHLY recommend buying a box of sandwich baggies and tearing off pieces of paper to keep track of parts you have taken off. I have about 30 baggies of bolts and parts with labels telling me what they are and how many are supposed to be there. It will make your life better I swear.
Optional Tools:
Camera - it just helps you keep track of stuff and who knows you may make a write up like I did
Extra set of hands (required for taking radiator out)
Air tools - air wrench and blower to clean dust out of parts
Carb cleaner - or some sort of solvent to clean grease off
Tape - to label things that won't fit in bags, ie the belts
If replacing your No.1 Idler/Tensioner you'll need a 10mm hex/allen key and if your no.2 idler bearing is bad like mine was you'll need a 14mm box end wrench with a 90 degree curve at the box end (picture at that step). I made one by putting it in a vice and heating it up then bending it.
Metric sockets(shallow well) 4, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 19mm. One deep well 14mm
Swivel head for those sockets and extensions, 2 in and 2x 4 in.
Torque Wrench
Hammer (ball pine preferred)
Pulley Puller (can rent at AutoZone)
Gasket Maker / Packing Material / Sealent
Several razor blades and a green bremmo pad for cleaning gasket areas
Screw drivers
Paint pen - very important!
Haynes manual or a factory service manual (something besides me)
Funnel with narrow tip
Drain pan (or a big bowl)
Latex gloves when working in the greasy areas
Lots of paper towels
Antifreeze to replace what you drain(see step 12)
Transmission Fluid to replace the small amount you'll lose
I HIGHLY recommend buying a box of sandwich baggies and tearing off pieces of paper to keep track of parts you have taken off. I have about 30 baggies of bolts and parts with labels telling me what they are and how many are supposed to be there. It will make your life better I swear.
Optional Tools:
Camera - it just helps you keep track of stuff and who knows you may make a write up like I did
Extra set of hands (required for taking radiator out)
Air tools - air wrench and blower to clean dust out of parts
Carb cleaner - or some sort of solvent to clean grease off
Tape - to label things that won't fit in bags, ie the belts
If replacing your No.1 Idler/Tensioner you'll need a 10mm hex/allen key and if your no.2 idler bearing is bad like mine was you'll need a 14mm box end wrench with a 90 degree curve at the box end (picture at that step). I made one by putting it in a vice and heating it up then bending it.
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I was gonna do another when I changed my rear main oil seal but the setup wasn't good for taking pictures. Cheers!