Step 8: Removing the No.2 Idler Assembly

The No.2 idler assembly is slightly hidden by an electrical raceway and some fuel lines.

In order to remove the idler you must first remove 4 bolts(10mm) from the small plate that surrounds the no.2 idler. Pry the plate back and forth so it loosens then slide it up.
It will be caught by the electrical raceway, there are several clips on each side that you have to open in order to open the raceway. It is not necessary to completely remove the raceway, just bend it enough to let the plate pass by.

Once you have the plate off you can use your special 90 degree 14mm box end wrench. The 4 bolts(12mm) are exposed enough that you can place the wrench on and use a pair of pliers to initially loosen the bolts. Clean this surface like the others and clear any debris that fall into the hole. Tape it closed when finished.
this is fantastic, you should make these things for a living; great detail!<br>
Great instructable! My 4Runner has over 250k on its 3.0 3VZ-E engine. Need to change the timing belt soon and your step by step was awesome. Will probably add an after market transmission cooler while I have the front end in pieces. Keep up the great work!
Excellent instructable, I couldn't ask for more. Thanks.
I have a 1994 Toyota 4 Runner has 250000 miles i just replaced the timing belt water pump all pullies. It is 100% in time crank and both cams. It will crank and run but has a rough idle and when you put it in gear it has no power. Any suggestions
<p>Outstanding instructions!!!! For those wishing to under take this task; if they follow these as well as your manuals instructions some creative thinking and common sense you will be turn key ready in 2 days. It took me 3 cause i clean then clean then clean and paint everything that i touch. No need getting dirty during reassembly. I did use some creative thinking when it can to breaking loos the crank bolt, i use a 2x6x4' for a hold down instead of dropping the starter and wedging a screwdriver into the fly wheel teeth.. </p>
<p>Hey kids! Do the fan and shroud before the radiator!</p>
<p>Ahem...let's not be dumping anti-freeze into the toilet or storm drains.....</p><p>1. illegal</p><p>2. really bad for the environment</p><p>3. probably not the best thing you ever did to your septic system</p><p>4. recycle it!</p>
<p>Ahem...let's not be dumping anti-freeze into the toilet or storm drains.....</p><p>1. illegal</p><p>2. really bad for the environment</p><p>3. probably not the best thing you ever did to your septic system</p><p>4. recycle it!</p>
<p>Awesome write-up!! I am getting ready to do my 93 Pickup this weekend. The only part that I have question on is the #2 Idler. What's the reason that a socket and extension can't be used to remove the top bolts opposed to this special 90* box end? Also, would a typical 90* box end that can be store bought work for this purpose as well? The bend is only about an inch or so before it flattens back out.</p>
<p>Thank you! You are the reason I first found the instructable website 2 years ago. I changed the timing belt on my old 4runner using your step by step instructions. I now have a Toyota T100 with a 3.4 and I will be doing an instructable on that change out trying to mirror your awesome one.</p>
let me just say THAAANKYOU for your notes. did step by step, flawless!
Thank you so much for adding that comment. Saved me hours of work! and worked like a charm.
sweet! Thank you!
Haven't checked on this in a while so I figured I'd stop in. <br>My truck is doing great. Just rolled over 232K miles! Since then I have changed to rear main seal, front rotors and wheel bearings, and a front caliper. I had intentions of doing a write up of the rear main seal, but time and life got in the way. It ended up being a 2 week job and I just wanted to be done with it. I have plans on doing my front bearings again so you'll get a write up of that. <br> <br>Cheers, -Matt
instead of taking the time to make the 14 mm wrench, simply remove the fuel line that is in the way of getting a 14 mm socket with extension. It is located on the right side of the engine facing it and is a 17 mm bolt. A small amount of fuel will leak, no big deal. Then access the bolts from atop and behind the wire raceway. A small 12 mm socket with elbow will get the ones in the front out. s
Great write up! consider adding this tip to the part explaining the removal of the crank shaft pulley. <br /> <br />Best way to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt is to use the breaker bar method and the ignition bump technique. Attach the 19 mm socket to a breaker bar with a half inch socket and wrench only. 3]8ths will get broken during the process. <br /> <br />Leverage the breaker bar under the left frame (as you face the engine) and hold in place with a bungy cord. Make sure there is tension on the socket wrench as you try to push down on the handle that should be left of the left of the crank. This will ensure that the clockwise direction of the crank movement will loosen the bolt. <br /> <br />Connect the battery, but disconnect the ignition from the coil. This is located along the right side of the engine bay and has two wire sockets in it. Disconnect the one closest to the coil wire that comes from the center of the distributer. This will ensure your engine will not start during the bump process. <br /> <br />Ensure that the 19mm socket is flush and square. Now, quickly bump the key while it is in your ignition. Turn the key just enough to turn the crank. Check to see it it is loosened. If not, try it again. Mine took two bumps to cut her loose. <br /> <br />Once loose, turn the crank clockwise back to the TDC. This will tighten the bolt again, yet it is now where near as hard to loosen it with a quick &quot;pop&quot; of the wrench the opposite direction. If it moved a little, simply move by hand back to TDC. <br /> <br />Now remove with pulley puller
Nice pictures and steps! ill look at this when i do my water pump because i think i need to because its getting hot when i sit in one place with it running for a few min and i have already put a new radiator,and thermostat so it shouldn't do that but i don't think my water pump is leaking so I'm not sure what is going on cuz they say your water pump will leak when its no good any more. So i don't know what do you thank it is??
Thanks so much great instructable. Did the swap last weekend, idlers, water pump and all. This served as a really solid guide. Thanks a million KraZe_EyE!
extremely helpful. might even keep this thing... <br>
Its been a while since I hopped on here. Almost 20k views?! Wow I didn't think I'd have anything on the net that would get that many views. Thanks for the comments guys. I tried my best to document every step and trick that I went through and apparently it turned out good! <br><br>I was gonna do another when I changed my rear main oil seal but the setup wasn't good for taking pictures. Cheers!
Ever had a timing belt/chain fail? It's pretty bad, my uncle had an audi a4 (2000 model, it's a lemon) and the whole valve train was shot to hell, he said it's mine if i can fix it. I have the know how and the tools, all I'm missing is the cash for the parts. Great instructable, oughta stop people from having to deal with that!<br />

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