2 tap Cornelius Kegerator

Step 5 Hole time.

Next you'll be sliding the board into place. I had to tape it into position first to make sure it wouldn't drop out of position while I was flipping the plastic lid over again and putting it back into place on the fridge. Either have someone hold the lid in place, or screw it back in to make sure it doesn't move. Then use a 3/16th inch drill bit to make yourself a whole right down the center of the top. Most hole saws have a center bit to them, and we can use this whole as an initial gide for that bit to make sure we're centered properly.

Now hook up your 2.5 inch hole saw and set it into position and cut through the plastic lid, pull the circle you just cut out off the top, and do the same for the wooden board underneath. After pulling out the wooden circle we'll be on the metal top of the fridge. This is why you want to make sure your hole saw is rated for metal, the wooden ones wont cut it worth a dang, and you'll warp the metal from all the heat it'll generate as you waste your time grinding into the surface.

Before you try and cut through the metal of the top it's a good idea to remove the plastic top and the wooden board again to give the saw some room. The hole saw will have left a small hole you can use as a guide in the top of the metal when you cut through the wood all the way. After cutting through the metal top, pull that circle away and then you can drill all the way through the foam insulation and the plastic interior of the fridge. If you finish the cut and don't see anything that looks like a pipe split or cracked in the foam, then your set and the fridge will still work when we put it all together.