Instructables
The intent of this bed project was to make a bed frame with basic tools as quickly and cheaply as possible.  Secondarily, I wanted to be able to break it down so it would be easy to move.  I have moved a lot over the last couple of years, and have always dealt with a mattress on the floor or on a boxspring on the floor.  It was time for a proper resting place that got me off the dirty floor without costing me a fortune.

This bed cost me about $22.  The only thing I bought new was the 2" x 8"s.  I got all the slats (the crosspieces that support the mattress), the bolts, the pegs that hold the headboard together, and the mattress for free.  Scrounge on!  

If you add fasteners to the mix, expect to spend another fifteen bucks or so.

You will need these tools:

Drill
Impact driver (or make do with your drill)
Ratchet and socket set
Circular saw
Drill bits
Speed square
Pencil
Tape measure

You will need these materials:

5 2" x 8" x 8' yellow pine boards, straight as possible
5 2" x 6" x 8' yellow pine boards, salvage preferable
8 1/2" x 4" galvanized lag bolts
32 1/4" x 4" galvanized lag bolts
Wood glue
1 1/2" x 3' dowel

 
 
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fathertime1 month ago

Very nice build. I built pretty much the same frame years back without the legs. Very well done and see a lot of nice improvements over the design I had. Well done.

My son and I just completed his California King based on this Instructable -- thanks! We made some modifications, of course. And it took longer and cost a bit more ($150 all-in) than I estimated, but it turned out fantastic. I've attached some images showing various stages

The main differences are:
a) the size
b) use of 8 2x6 slats (and we might add 2-4 more)
c) 4x6x20 posts for legs (it's *really* high off the ground, we may cut them down a few inches)
d) 2 L brackets on each leg to augment the 4 lag screws
e) a single coat of stain to make the pine look slightly different
f) no headboard

Having a 3/4" socket wrench for the large lag bolts, and a 1/2" socket bit for the small lag bolts, was really helpful. I used a 5/8" spade bit to make the recesses for the small lag bots, and a 1" spade bit for the recesses for the large lag bolts.

We had to carry the frame upstairs and do the leg and slat installation in the bedroom. It would be *really* unwieldy to have had the legs mounted while maneuvering it through the house, esp. up the stairs.

BTW, I don't think a center leg is required given all the slats.

Hope people find this useful, and thanks again to wholman for starting it off!
Alec Bed 1.jpgAlec Bed 2.jpgAlec Bed 3.jpgAlec Bed 4.jpgAlec Bed 5.jpgAlec Bed 6.jpgAlec Bed 7.jpgAlec Bed 8.jpgAlec Bed 9.jpgAlec Bed 10.jpgAlec Bed 11.jpg
oddg2411 year ago
The lag bolts are 1/4in x 4in. that would convert to 6.35 mm x 101.60mm
Hi, I'm from Spain, and I have got a problem with the lag bolts, in concrete is the measure, I guess that the measure in your materials are in inches, my question is this: Can you or someone else tell me what measurements have in milimetres the lag bolts?
I've looked in internet with a conversor of longitude, as I gave the converter was 25mm, so here it is 2.5cm
ProRock2 years ago
How tall is it from the bottom of the frame to the floor? Do the legs pick it up that far off the ground?

I was thinking about using 4x4"s instead for legs or maybe 2x10"s to provide a few more inches under the bed.
you could easily make the legs longer if wanted or ad the 4 X 4's i see different ways to go with this bed.
Mine ROCKS! Only thing I did differently is not use the 1/2" x 4" bolts, those things are huge! So I just used the 1/4"s. I love the natural bolt and wood look was really cool, but it wasn't in my design scheme. So, I ended up really globbing on a black walnut color stain, over the bolts and all.

I am not done with my own headboard, but when I do - I'll get a picture up.

Thank you soooo much for this, super fun and my introduction to using lag bolts has opened up a whole new world!
I liked this so much I made a slightly modified version. I used 2x12s instead of 2x8s and left off the headboard. I also made the legs a little longer to accomodate more dust bunnies. Thanks for the inspiration. http://bit.ly/erQo9l
wholman (author)  ericchastain3 years ago
hey man, looks awesome! thanks for letting me know . . . so rare to find someone who actually did one of my instructables . . . hope its nice and comfortable.
Very nicely done. I really like the design's ability to be adapted. Really inspiring for me. I was going to design my own but this one is already laid out so well. Good clear photos too!
pheenix424 years ago
Wish I could make this out of some cedar lumber...it'd be gorgeous to look at!
aadball5044 years ago
To cover those lag bolt heads copper pipe caps work nice and give a finished look but can be tough to get out if want to break the bed or other piece of furniture down.
symonspa4 years ago
That wood you used for the slats looks pressure treated, you know you cant use pt inside it off-gasses some nasty chemicals.
heem20024 years ago
Excellent project, thank you!<<<<
rangeside4 years ago
I've been experimenting building upholstered headboards for the last year or so. This project seems like a really good build to compliment that hobby. Really nice Instructable!
If you finish that project, I for one would love to see the results and the steps posted here :)
funbob4 years ago
Like the instructable some good guidance. not done much woodwork before am i reading this right, 2" thick timber? I'm in the uk and it doesnt seem to be standard thickness here can any make any suggestions/correction to my thoughts!. thanks :)
Phil B funbob4 years ago
In the USA we call it a 2 x 4, etc.; but a 2 x 4 is actually 1 5/8 x 3 1/2. The 2 x 4 refers to dimensions when it was rough cut and before finish planing. I was in Germany at a home center. They had lumber dimensioned in metric. I do not remember the exact size, but there was something close to what I would call a 2 x 4.
Jewsons will sell it, I bought some from there a while back.
MsJaxFla4 years ago
I was hoping you would design a queen size with maybe no legs, but with two or one storage drawers on each side? I love the small headboard feature, that is exactly what I want, but if I am going to make a headboard, why not the frame as well..... also, I am a girl, not that smart and no money, but I am determinded to build what I want to have. Please do some more designing? You seem to be so great at it.
velcro24 years ago
Wholman: I like your project; very creative and very well illustrated. However, I have a few comments: The header and the head frame member should have been pre-assembled so that they might be sanded and smoothed evenly. The outside corners should be rounded to avoid a blunt edge when making the bed. Judging from the rough cuts in the photos, looks like you could use a sharper saw blade. The side rails need to have radius-ed edges and smoothed to make it easier and "friendlier" to make the bed. Sheets will snag on any rough edge as you already know. In step 3 you mentioned a 3 inch sheet rock screw. They don't come in those lengths but I would recommend a 3 inch Deck Screw and pre-drill all screw holes. The lag screws have hex heads so you want to "counter bore" and not counter sink the holes. I also would opt to make the legs taller since the bed is too close to the floor. When you sit on a mattress, your feet should just barely touch the floor. Bongodrummer has a very good point. Most modern mattresses have those coil springs in them so you would want to lay 1/4 inch "perf board" over the slats to distribute the weight evenly. All screws should be round head and smooth with no burrs to snag the material. The counter bored lag screw holes should be covered with those plastic button caps that are available at the local hardware store. I give your project an A- for creativity, planning, assembly and documenting. The only drawback is that its a little "rough" and needs to be more "user friendly". Thanks for a great project.
wholman (author)  velcro24 years ago
Thanks for the comments -- feel like I need to address a few points, though. For one thing, a couple people have mentioned rounding over the edges of the wood on the bed frame. I guess the photos don't really show it that well, but all dimensional lumber you buy at the store has a roundover already. The side rail are smooth and snag-free with a 1/4" radius, no extra work required.

As to the height of the bed, that's all on purpose. I don't like those tall beds that always make me feel like I'm about to roll off. Guess that comes from so many years of sleeping on the floor.

They do make three inch, coarse-thread, phillips-head, standard black ssheetrock screws, got them from the Ace down the street. Maybe I forgot to mention, but I pre-drilled everything of course.

I don't want to cover the nice galvanized hex bolts with some ugly plastic button -- let the material be, it's beautiful as is.

Thanks for the comments, helps make everyone's projects better.
Mr. Rig It4 years ago
Nice build!
dewexdewex4 years ago
Cool frame. Looks like one I made. Personally, I'd say it needed more mattress supports. I used rolled up wooden slat ones from Ikea; they're cheap and springy.
looks cool. would the bed sheets have to be custom made?
doctoral4 years ago
This is my favorite type project.I was thinking of a frame built around short 4x4's as legs that way caster wheels can be attach. A larger headboard with cubbie holes is also possible. Thanks
geogaby4 years ago
Excellent project, i will try it.
barneytomb4 years ago
Good project. I was looking for big boy bed for my Nephew. This looks like the ticket.
blckbuster4 years ago
nice, the feet don't seem like they would stand up to hard use though, why not use 12' lengths of post for the legs?
jasoncattnz4 years ago
I paid $350 for a similar base from my local bed shop last year. Its cheap fittings have resulted in loose and creaky bed. I'm inspired, wish I'd had this instructible then!
woodyardboy4 years ago
you should have a lie down after that :)
bazillite4 years ago
also you disign for the bes stacks nicly
Critifur4 years ago
Needs a picture of the drywall screws that secure the rail. Screw in from the inside of the rail toward the outer frame? Did you secure the triangular foot supports the same way?
wholman (author)  Critifur4 years ago
The triangular braces are held with 1/4" lag bolts, three to a side, that you can see on the pictures of the finished project. The drywall screw was just to pin the brace to the side of the bed frame temporarily to hold it so I could drill pilot holes and put in the lags. So, pop a little short drywall screw through one of the corners of the triangular corner brace into the backside of the bed frame to hold it in place while you do the lags.
Critifur4 years ago
Needs a picture of the drywall screws that secure the rail. Screw in from the inside of the rail toward the outer frame?
wholman (author)  Critifur4 years ago
Yeah, screw from the inside towards the outer frame so the screws don't show; use a 2-1/2" screw, which should give you plenty of grab but won't poke through.
Critifur4 years ago
Excellent project, thank you!
raul22104 years ago
very good written,awesome pictures and outstanding project thanks for sharing
Critifur4 years ago
I am going to make this, I had just been looking for a bed frame. I need to add a center support rail with some feet. I think I will replace the feet with metal ones from Ikea. I also wanted a platform bed, so if I had a sheet of peg board over the slats that should support just the mattress. I may also upholster the frame.
Grouchy14 years ago
If you have a router you can take this project to a whole 'nother level and reduce the risk of splinters by rounding the board edges with a 1/4" radius bit. After assembly, light sanding and a coat of flat or semigloss polyurethane will make it look very professional as well as further reducing the risk of splinters.
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