Fixtures and Fittings:
The handle you use will be different so you will have to follow the manufactures instructions. The control panel on the other hand will be very similar. The control panel will allow you to swithc between operational and charging mode, as well as controlling the internal aux power supply.
I took a IEC
power connector from a computer PSU to use as my power inlet. I also used a grommet to protect the headphone cable and two switches, one a spst rocker and a DPDT rocker. See the third picture for the wiring diagram.
The PSU remain in standby untill the single switch is pressed. The charger stays on constantly as it draws very little power when disconnected. However it cannot be left connected to the battery when off, as this drains the battery hence the circuit above.To make the panel:
To mount the panel:
Score a 5" by 5" square onto some plate aluminum.
Mark up the switch bore holes
Clamp the aluminum to some scrap wood and then clamp that to the bench.
Chain drill (multiple conjoining holes) around the inside of the markings.
File out the hole and repeat for the other switch.
Cut out the panel, file any bur of and rub it down with p180 grit paper.
All that is left is to wire up the panel and connect up the speakers.
Hole the panel to the housing and drill 4 corner holes
Screw down the panel
Drill and chisel the MDF out of the switch hole.
File back unit the switches can be pushed in.
Note about REM - with many thanks to karlpinturr for pointing this out:
Standard car amplifiers have a connection next to ground called REM, this is called remote and is used the switch the amplifier from standby to on. REM is normally triggered with 12V by the head unit (cd player) in a car. It is used to have a quick power up time however leaving the 12V of the amp permanently connected will drain your battery therefor I just power it up directly with the 12V input..
Just short the REM to the 12V input and turn the amplifier on by connecting and disconnecting the 12V input to the battery.