WOW!  I want to thank everyone, including the instructables site for an absolutely amazing 3 months!!!

         Again, thank you everyone for the incredible help and wonderful comments!

  It's hard to believe that the 2BEIGH3 was released just last May21st.  And now, the first of August, there have been 52,000 views, 68+ followers, 158 public comments and over 2,200 private emails and comments!
  I can honestly say, given all of the comments, that the combination of a dual purpose machine, in addition to a new high strength material was of major importance to a lot of people all over the world!
  I also want to thank everyone for their patience in waiting for my responses to all of the questions as at times, it was literally overwhelming.
  As there is no peer review, like that of others using your technical information and drawings to duplicate your efforts, I want to update everyone on the efforts of others with respect to the 2BEIGH3:

Currently ( These are users I know of through emails and comments):
There are 14 people that have built the low res CNC version and have been cutting parts.
There are 28 people in the process of building the low res CNC version in order to build the 3D Printer.
There are 3 people that have built the low res, then Hi Res CNC version and are also cutting parts.
There are 4 people that have built the lo res version and used it to build the 3D Printer parts.
There is already one person who has successfully built and tested the 2BEIGH3 3D Printing extruder.
Within the next few weeks, there are three people that will be ready to print in Nylon.

Hacking the 2BEIGH3
    And most important to me, is that just under half of these people have hacked the design to accommodate their specific needs.
The reason this is important, is that to an extent, the design would help a greater number of people in that if someone had a CNC and only needed a fast X/Y table for 3D Printing, they could easily separate the table from the rest of the design and continue on.  There were three users that had fast CNC machines, and just needed an extruder and hot-end.  They are already printing ABS, and are about to move toward Nylon.  There were people that had assembled 3D Printer kits and wanted to be able to print Nylon.  They used the slotting method to grab Nylon and are testing the strength of their extruders now!  There were people that had 3D Printer kits, and wanted to use the electronics and motors in a CNC setup.  They grabbed the pipe frame, some open source CNC SW and a cutter.  They are already cutting parts!  There are at least five people that had smaller DIY CNC machines and have upgraded to a much larger pipe frame configuration.

The location of those building the 2BEIGH3:
USA, Canada, India, Germany, Norway, Brazil, Mexico and I'm sure I'm leaving someone out!

And more!  Because of everyone's interest, comments and support, the 2BEIGH3 received a huge amount of great web attention!
From hackaday to engadget and around the world in blogs and 3D Printing sites that I never knew existed, came articles, references and requests for more information.  It is amazing that if you Google "3D Printing Nylon" the first Google image is a part from the 2BEIGH3 and the majority of web links refer to the 2BEIGH3.
  It is without a doubt that your interest, your comments and your sharing through social networks pushed the 2BEIGH3 to where it is today!

 Of all the comments, and questions, there was always that one open issue!
 So taulman, If we can't use trimmer line, and can't get Nylon rod, where do we get the Nylon to Print????
And that is the one consuming issue I've been working.

3D Printing Nylon co-polymer is available here!

   External testing results are starting to come in and after a final adjustment in the co-polymers, I am finally pleased with the quality of 3D Printed results.   This was a huge undertaking and has been a whirlwind development in chemistry and processes.
   The call for testers is closed, however due to the overwhelming requests, we believe that those who signed on late or exceeded our limit deserve a chance to have a say in there efforts and results.  Therefore, while it may take a week or so, we still plan to send out samples to those that were willing to help us in this test effort.

   At last count, we tested:
17 total co-polymer combinations with 6 base nylon variants
3 extrusion methods
3 pH combinations
over 1,400 delamination tests
4 Chemical degradation tests
100's of 3D Printer certification part tests
1000's of feet of line from 2.1mm to 3.4mm

I rejected all of it due to any one issue or combination of issues.
Until the final co-polymer passed all testing with excellent results, specifically in the final 3D Printed part.
618 truly stands on it's own.

2BEIGH3 Updates:
The following updates are notification of file and or drawings as some people downloaded these early on before others pointed out errors or omissions.
The actual files and drawings have been updated or added on the Main Site Here.

Lo Res CNC -
1. The X axis nut for the threaded rod was changed to a piece of delrin plastic that is drilled then tapped with a 1/4 20 tap.

2. The Y axis nut for the threaded rod was changed to a piece of delrin plastic that is drilled then tapped with a 1/4 20 tap.

3. The Z Axis shims are not needed for cutting most parts.

4. There was an electrical drawing added showing the electrical Power Supply connection for those that have a high current single supply.

5. The Z Axis drawer slide is known as a "Center Slide" and comes as one piece.

6. Some users have bent the retainer on the drawer slides in an effort to center the slide.  This caused the ball bearing to fall out.  Rather than set the slide so it is combined at the center, let the slide be extended slightly at table center location.  Insure that they slide to the left for X and to the rear for Y.

7. A commenter noted that the Z Axis "does" need to be at right angles to the table or even small parts will have an angled edge.

8. Read through the comments to see answers to question about replacement lpt ports for Mach3.

9. There are several answers to Driver boards and controller boards in the comments, with one as to what "not" to buy.

Hi Res CNC -

1. The X axis nut for the threaded rod was changed to a piece of delrin plastic that is drilled then tapped with a 1/4 20 tap.
     There is a new dwg in the hi res section for this part.

2. The Y axis nut for the threaded rod was changed to a piece of delrin plastic that is drilled then tapped with a 1/4 20 tap.
     There is a new dwg in the hi res section for this part.

3. The Z Axis shims "ARE" required for precision.

4. A 1/8th step controller and driver are required for precision.

5. One user noted that using the lo res CNC may attribute "shear" to the Hi Res Table.
   Shear is when the assembly x and y are not at true right angles.   This is a problem on a lot of DIY CNC machines.
   The user noted that you can measure shear by cutting a large square, measure the angle and then use a "shear" command to alter your drawing and the result is an extremely accurate part.  I tried this and it does work very well.

3D Printing -
Step 2 = As promised, I have a 3D Printed Extruder to replace our Acrylic gears!

Step 3 = A quick update as to where to get the low cost unmodified nozzles!

Step 4 = A list of faq for printing in Nylon, using the new materials as a reference.

Step 1: 3D Printed Extruder

  As part of the 2BEIGH3's 3D Printer configuration, we built a "Material Extruder", or a unit that would push the ABS or Nylon into the coupling hose and therefore on into the hot-end.  Using the lo res CNC machine, we designed a geared unit with a 1:4 ratio to grab the slippery material and force it on it's way.  We all know that gears were not meant to be made of acrylic, so I promised that I would design and release a 3D Printed Extruder.  So....

  This is a simple direct drive extruder.  The benefits of the pliability of Nylon are at work here.

1. The side bearing slots are pressure fit and self aligning.

2.  The pressure bearing is spring loaded as a function of the pliability of the side walls and fill.  Something we can't do in ABS.

3. The couplers do not need to be tapped.  They will screw directly into the openings where, again, the pliability of nylon accommodates the NPT threads.

    Take a look at the first three images.
The first image/photos shows a completed unit in actual operation.
The next, a breakout of the parts.  And the 3rd, as the CAD Drawing that shows the standard four views of the design.

1 each 4" length of 1/4 20 threaded rod.
4 each 1/4 20 nuts
1 each 1/4" ID Coupler, same as before - MMC 6412K11
3 each 626ZZ Bearings from patio door slides as before.
2 each couplers - reuse those on your current extruder.
1 each 1" piece of the small PTFE we used on the Hot End
1 each printed Nylon 2x3nylon extruder.stl printed at 2 perimeters and 50% fill
    You'll find the .stl file below.

  I've left the mounting open so users can determine how and where they want to clamp or mount the unit.  Also, the 4" threaded rod is simply what I used as I will be placing an encoder on it soon and wanted some extra room on the shaft.  You need to determine your needs as to length. 

Slots/hobbs bolt:
   Images 4 and 5 show the threaded rod and how it has been slotted.  This was done by simply putting a dremel cutting disk in the small drill press and slicing slots every 30 degrees, or about 12 slots.
   You only need to slot about 1/2" where the material will come into contact inside the extruder.  I suggest building the extruder up without the pressure bearing, then using a marker to mark the location where the pressure bearing will contact the nylon.  Then remove and slot as needed.

Pressure bearing:
   The pressure bearing is held in place by a 2" 1/4 20 screw.  Because there will be considerable pressure, a nut is not needed.
The screw head will contact the outside of the shaft bearing, but that part of the shaft bearing does not rotate.

   Having slotted the rod, assembly is simple as noted in the photos.  Make sure NOT to use the nuts to compress the outside shaft bearings as it's not needed and will add drag.

   Cut a 1" piece of the small PTFE tubing we used for the hot-end and place it into the coupler about 1/2 way.  This will keep smaller material from bending  As mentioned, there is no need to tap threads into the Nylon body.  Simply push and twist the coupler into the opening and the threads will catch, and then screw the rest of the way, leaving about 0.100" gap.

Stepper Motor Settings:
  Keep in mind, that we called out a NEMA23 for the early extruder.  This unit will require a NEMA 23 as it is a direct drive to the shaft.  NEMA17's will not have enough axial leverage and will be prone to skipping steps.
  Because we've gone from a 1:4 gear ratio to a 1:1, we'll need to change the "Steps Per" in the Mach3 motor tuning section.  A good starting #, would be 1/4 of the current number  !

     With a 2.8mm nylon line, this extruder should be able to lift a 30lb weight.  HOWEVER!  That doesn't result into a 30 Push UNLESS
we make sure that the material path is such that the material can't "fold over".  I've had the material actually fold over in the coupling tube!
To eliminate this as I test all sizes of plastics, nylon and other material, I ordered another few feet of the small PTFE tubing.  I then cut a slit the entire length of my coupling tube and added the PTFE tubing inside of that tube.  It's extremely slick and eliminates the folding!
  With this combination, I can extrude nylon down to 205c.  (It's not very useful for anything except expensive fishing line, but, who knows!)  At 205c, nylon will not bond.

   About a month after release, I updated the 3D Printing section with more photos and breakouts of the Hot-End.  In addition, there is a better explanation as to how the seal is created at the entrance to the aluminum block.

.stl Files

1. The base for the new 2BEIGH3 extruder

2. An IPhone style case.

3. On some of my images, you'll see a large pipe flange as an image denoting strength.  pipe flange.stl

4. Harbor Freight sells a red low cost voltmeter.  I find that I drop these, on occasion and printed a few cases. 

Hi everybody, someone could tell me if there is a 3d printer material hard enough to support torsion end deterioration at overuse , but not material like metal to melt. ABS is too fragile ? Nylon ? To print object like keys or something like this.<br>Ty guys.
<p>Try Nylon 12 Filament. Takes a lot of abuse but easy to print with....</p><p>www.rdmfilament.com</p>
<p>what about nylon fishing lines? can those be used as filament?</p>
<p>Any recommendations for dissolving nylon?</p><p>I need a good solvent to dissolve nylon and other polycarbonate materials.<br>I used acetone for <a href="http://www.soliwiki.com/ABS" rel="nofollow">ABS</a> and it worked okay. I dont want any strong acids that might disintegrate the plastic</p>
<p>Great write up. Very informative.</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>This is good stuff!<br>Thank you!</p>
<p>What is the printing resolution of the 2beigh3?</p>
This is wonderfull! Believe me, I need to build one! I will start to read all material and list all things needed. I never believed that I can make a 3D printer like this.
ive looked through your instructable over and over but cant seem to find the temp controller to replace the dimmer
dpucio, it's not very obvious.! It's the very last photo in the photo section of Section 17. Makes no diff on Neutral and Hot and there is no ground. The thermocouple is isolated inside the unit. The Heater cartridge is the same.<br>
I am converting a cnc router that I built from Rockcliff plans and would like to know if I can buy the 3d printed extruder. Also, would the nema 23 stepper motor rated at 270 oz in be alright to use with the extruder. It seems to be the least powerful and cheapest. About $20 on ebay. Thanks.
Mr.124, you can get the plastic parts for a wades style extruder here. <br> <br>http://mixshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=11&amp;products_id=65 <br> <br>Your 270oz stepper will work fine with this. Take a look around as they also sell completed extruders with hotends. Make your life a bit easier..! <br>taul
What thermocouple do you recommend for the hot end? Thanks, Mr.124thscale
The initial design used a simple light dimmer with no feedback to get the unit up and running. I suggest using a standard &quot;PID&quot; controller that intern uses a &quot;K&quot; thermocouple. I got mine here.<br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Digital-F-C-PID-Temperature-Controller-Control-TA4-SNR-with-K-thermocouple-/140714316313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item20c33a1219<br>It's already programmed, you just hit the set buttin and use the arrow up/dn to set your temp and done. does a great job.<br>It comes with a fancy thermocouple end, but you don't need it. Thermocouples work from the exact spot the two wires touch. So if you twist then 5 times, only the first twist is the actual measurement point. I simply cross the stripped ends about 3.8 into an open X. Use pliars to press the wires against each other to flatten where they cross just a bit, and then place that junction onder a washer on one of the support rods, compressing it to the block. I'll try and get a pic uploaded. It's easy.<br>taul
I have received the PID controller. I cut the thermocouple off, cross the wires and secure them under a washer and nut on one of the threaded support rods, correct? Now, how do I wire the thing? From the circuit diagram, I see that I run the 120V into 1 and 2, but where to put the heating cartrige and thermocouple lines? Thanks. Mr.124thscale
124.. I added a photo with the connections labeled. Hope this helps.<br>Those PID controllers come with zero usable instructions.<br>After you power on, wait about 10 sec. Then push set....then up or dn arrow. The PID function is preprogrammed. It'll keep you +/- 4-5 degrees every 5 sec.<br>taul
I'm still working on this thing. Got a PID temperature controller, Mypin TA4-SNR-K. I have connected it with the heater cartridge and cut off the thermocouple, crossed the wires and secured them to the alum. block. I set the controller to 220 C, however the PID readout says &quot;UUUU&quot;, which according to the Mypin instructions means the input signal exceeds the Hi range; which it clearly is well under the high range. Any ideas? Is the controller defective? The heater cartridge got warm - but not as hot as the stepper motors so something is working. I checked it continuity, it's not burned out. Left a message with Mypin but I'm not expecting an answer. Any ideas as to what is wrong? Thanks, Mr.124scale
The &quot;TA&quot; series uses a solid state relay rather than an internal relay to power the heater. Did you use a SSR..?
Thanks for your super speedy reply. I didn't know what a SSR is so googled it. What's a solid state relay? You didn't mention that in your previous post. Would you recommend one on ebay, or from McMaster Carr, or Grainger? I swear - one of these days I'll get this thing off the ground. Thanks, Mr.124thscale
Please recommend a SSR that would work with my PID and heater cartridge. Thanks, Mr.124thscale
It should have a schematic on the side. Please take a photo and email me by using my website's &quot;Contact Us&quot; taulman3D.com to send it. I'll take a look and see. some come with a SSR a grey or black brick with 4 terminals.....Didi yours..?<br>
Taulman informed me by PM which SSR that I should use. On order soon! Maybe I'll get printing soon, I've been at this for a while and every day I get closer. Thanks, Mr.124thscale
Thanks for the info. I'll be working on it over the next several days and send a pic whenever I get the thing cooking. Mr.124thscale
Here's work so far. I got the thing mounted but been so busy making it I wasn't thinking far enough ahead to know I would need another driver for the extruder. I now have one on order, a Pololu A4988. Should be in early next week. <br>Mr.124thscale
Pricey little guys aren't they! The A4988 should work fine. Again, good luck with the build, and please let us know!<br>taul
I have received the Pololu A4988. I have figured out which leads from the stepper motor goes to which output on the chip but I am completely lost when it comes to how to power it, or ground it or how to connect it to my computer. I have figured out a way to make a heat sink. I have googled the problem but haven't found anything I can make any sense out of. Any help, as usual, would be greatly appreciated. Mr.124thscale
I've decided to skip the Pololu idea and get a 4th axis kit for my HobbyCNC controller and use that to run the extruder. I'll send pics and updates as I stumble along. Mr.124thscale
Couldn't figure out how to load the image. Mr.124thscale
Thanks for the reply. I've ordered the temperature control. I'm building the print head to go on my cnc machine. I build 1/24th scale model cars and with the cnc router have cut out several bodies and made molds of the masters, cast them and built the models. Recently Shapeways have printed some of my designs but a want more control over what I'm printing so I'm now making the print head. It's also an interesting challenge. Here's a discussion thread about a model I recently completed:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1082881 Mr.124thscale
Mr124, Absolutely beautiful models. I'm impressed! Check out my site, as there's a photo of a 3D Printed nylon mold. While nylon won't hold thinner liquids, it will definately hold the casting compounds. As it's slick, it's a snap to pop the part out. Of course, every line of the 3D print threads will show in the molded part. I suggest printing in as hi a res as possible, the use a rounded &quot;tamp&quot; with a heat gun to press out the thread lines.....May work! <br> http://taulman3d.com/photos.html<br>taul
The 3D printer hot-end can only be used with 3 mm filament, correct? Because the 1/4&quot;X 1/8&quot; tube would be too large for 1.75 mm filament and melted material would push out? I'm working on making the hot end now. Thanks, Mr.124thscale
The PTFE tubes are undersized a bit, so they're not exactly 1/8. You should be about to use 1.75. I've used 1.68 nylon and 2.0 nylon with no issues. I haven't tried 1.75 ABS yet as I do have a bit of 3mm.<br>taul

About This Instructable


110 favorites


Bio: is an Engineer with a background in electronics, optics, mechanical designs, chemistry, plastic injection molding and plastic die tooling.
More by taulman: Is 3D Printing Safe? or  DIY Testing for HCN from ABS and Nylon 3D Print Material 2BEIGH3 3D Printer Update and call for Testers Nylon Printable 608 Ball Bearing
Add instructable to: